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Rear locker engagement

patracy

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Any recommendations for a better option for a rear locker with what I'm reading I'm concerned about damaging in my rear end


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IMHO, run it until you have a problem. Then when a problem occurs, switch to a different traction unit. Or swap in 1008/1010/1028/1031 axles. Or run civilian axles with a open diff with better gearing. (I'd toss in a lock right locker or something)
 

The FLU farm

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Any recommendations for a better option for a rear locker with what I'm reading I'm concerned about damaging in my rear end
First of all, are you sure you want a locker and not a limited slip? There's a big difference in handling if you drive on the street much, and especially if you ever find yourself on snow and ice.
I'm a huge fan of the Detroit Locker, and have them front and rear in two of my Jeeps. But those rarely gets driven on the road. I also installed a No-Spin (case-less Detroit Locker) in my Peterbilt, which is driven almost exclusively on pavement. With the weight and wheel base of the Pete it's a non-issue, but I can still feel it at times.
In other words, in my opinion a street driven M1009 is borderline short for a locker.
When it comes to limited slip differentials, the True-Trac is about as good as it gets, I think. It's unnoticeable, yet works. And it can be made to "lock up" with a brake application should one tire be in the air.

And after this long rambling, I have to admit that I no longer know whats available for a 10-bolt so I can't recommend anything in particular. But I would pay extra for an open diff over an axle with the bomb installed.
Can't remember what my conclusion was when researching how to defuse a Gov-Lock. As I recall, it wasn't as easy as removing a few parts in the governor. I think epoxying the thing shut was the most feasible solution. Installed a Dana 60 and called it a day.
 

The FLU farm

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IMHO, run it until you have a problem. Then when a problem occurs, switch to a different traction unit.
In my case that approach worked out fairly well, as the Gov-Lock detonated in the front yard. Not out in the woods, somewhere.
And since the resulting damage was rather substantial, it wouldn't have been a simple matter of disconnecting the rear drive shaft and drive home in front wheel drive.
 

Csm Davis

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I'd like to interject a bit. I've blown a gov-bomb with a clapped out 6.2. Stock tires. Just happened to be in the wrong place/wrong time. Was pulling back onto concrete from mud turning uphill. Truck started fishtailing on me before I knew it and the outside tire caught concrete at the same time it decided to lock. Boom.

I know of other members here that have stock trucks that have blown them. Even last year at the Ga Rally, not even off road. Phil ended up driving his in 4wd back home to FL.

It's hard to argue that they're underrated in construction just due to the physical size of the parts. It's a novel design giving the best of both world. But certainly could be improved.

Ditto on the magnet! I've blown one in a 14 bolt as well. Probably wouldn't have toasted the R&P if all the "kibbles and bits" from the diff had been caught by a magnet.
There was a lawsuit against GM for these in 83-4 my truck was one of the ones that got fixed it only had like 20,000 miles on it when it failed. Was a big mess, took 2 months and lots of calls to lawyers and supervisors at GM to get it fixed.

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doghead

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Rock crawling a daily driver is a lot like having unprotected sexual relations.
 

gimpyrobb

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My point in this is to politely tell people that they are mistaken that it was a different model or that someone misinformed them about a hobby that many of us enjoy every day and invite them to come to a rally and see lots of beautiful green history on wheels.

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No way!

I told a guy once that my truck was a deuce and a half and he went on to tell me all about how it was a 5ton. Then when I showed him the data plate on the dash, he accused me of swapping data-plates and went looking for a cop! That was 2hrs of my life I'll never get back.

I will let ignorant people be ignorant, till they NEED to know better, like the case of that judge or something.

I feel its like all these warning labels on everything. If someone wants to bathe with a 120v toaster, I believe they SHOULD try it.
 

Csm Davis

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No way!

I told a guy once that my truck was a deuce and a half and he went on to tell me all about how it was a 5ton. Then when I showed him the data plate on the dash, he accused me of swapping data-plates and went looking for a cop! That was 2hrs of my life I'll never get back.

I will let ignorant people be ignorant, till they NEED to know better, like the case of that judge or something.

I feel its like all these warning labels on everything. If someone wants to bathe with a 120v toaster, I believe they SHOULD try it.
I would have helped him find a cop and asked them to drug test him. Never had a deuce called a 5 ton, but calling my 5 ton a deuce all the time.



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rustystud

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https://youtu.be/mk5RAC8qpyo
Same thing as the Chevrolet trucks have had for years.
Yes, Chevy has used this unit for years. But it has had major issues over the years. Remember Chevrolet has a notorious habit of putting products into service that have not been fully tested and developed. Did you know there are over 700 recall/repair notices for the TH700R4 (4L60E) transmission alone ? I actually own the book of recall repairs and it's huge ! It's also like the now "infamous" NP205 transfer-case with "shift on the fly" capabilities. Thankfully they only used it for a few years before pulling the plug on that one. That was a collaboration between New-Process and GM that was not a good idea. You will also notice this newer Eaton design is much stronger then the old 1980's design. Now again, don't get me wrong. This unit can last you a lifetime of good use, just be careful and know the limitations of your vehicle.
 
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llong66

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A little off topic, but I remember the first winter I owned my M1008, first time i ever owned ANYTHING with a locker, it was snowy/icy out, was on just ever so slight a curve in the road and the next thing I knew, the rear end was coming around on me! That was sure one **** of a surprise! I was going really pretty slow, but taught me a lesson about lockers! Just glad no one was heading the other way!!
 

cucvrus

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This unit can last you a lifetime of good use, just be careful and know the limitations of your vehicle.

That is the key to life. If you decide to put bigger tires and lift kits on the old corporate 10 bolts you are just asking for trouble. They last indefinitely in normal to heavy duty use. They are made for 1/2 ton trucks. Not mud bogging. When ever I spin a tire on an M1009 I am aware of the locking action and I allow it to lock without spinning so hard that the gears engage so violently that something is bound to break. I have used the same rears for years in all my new trucks and they last. I had 2 failures in 22 years of use of an M1009 with the stock gears. Both were my fault. I changed axle seals and reused the center pin locking bolt. Big NO NO. It failed on me at -20 and 20 miles from home. I did find that a 6" drop hitch ball can last about 15 miles when reversed and dragging on the road. And front wheel drive with 3 tires still gets you there. The left backing plate was 1/2 mooned and the rear was scrap. Second time I was pulling concrete fence posts with the M1009 and the rear was on the road and connected so hard it snapped the right rear axle shaft flush in the center section. That did not break anything in the carrier but it did need a new shaft. So I think with a little respect and knowledge of how things work makes for a long lasting working M1009. If I don't break terminus M1009's rear. I feel they are pretty reliable. That thing had a rough life and has retired from snow plowing to off roading on weekends.
 

The FLU farm

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It's also like the now "infamous" NP205 transfer-case with "shift on the fly" capabilities. Thankfully they only used it for a few years before pulling the plug on that one. That was a collaboration between New-Process and GM that was not a good idea.
Never even heard about that one, rustystud. What was the deal with the "shift on the fly" 205?
I thought that any part-time 'case could be shifted on the fly - if there are no free-wheeling hubs, or they are locked.
Then again, that I've always done it doesn't mean it's proper procedure. I often shift without using the clutch, too.
 

The FLU farm

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A little off topic, but I remember the first winter I owned my M1008, first time i ever owned ANYTHING with a locker, it was snowy/icy out, was on just ever so slight a curve in the road and the next thing I knew, the rear end was coming around on me!
Aw, c'mon. We all know that it was a result of the awesome power of the 6.2, not the fault of the Detroit.
 

glaser06

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Never even heard about that one, rustystud. What was the deal with the "shift on the fly" 205?
I thought that any part-time 'case could be shifted on the fly - if there are no free-wheeling hubs, or they are locked.
Then again, that I've always done it doesn't mean it's proper procedure. I often shift without using the clutch, too.
I was thinking the 208 was shift on the fly.... they're notorious for throwing chains. The 205 is gear to gear, it'll grind a lot trying to shift while moving.

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The FLU farm

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I was thinking the 208 was shift on the fly.... they're notorious for throwing chains. The 205 is gear to gear, it'll grind a lot trying to shift while moving.
That's odd. I've been shifting both 205s and 208s (and other part-time 'cases) on the fly for as long as I can remember.

Maybe there's a misunderstanding going on here? To me, "shift on the fly" is the ability to change between 2WD and 4WD while the vehicle is moving. That's also what the manufacturers refer to when advertising a system as shift on the fly - which I think GM coined.

Shifting between high and low range with the vehicle in motion is a different matter altogether. No manufacturer condones that, as far as I know. Yet, it's usually no different than shifting into a non-synchro granny low 1st gear. Just like shifting a non-synchro transmission, it simply requires matching speed and engine rpm.

Having an automatic in front of the 'case makes it a bit trickier, but it's usually fully doable, with little or no grinding.
 

glaser06

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That's odd. I've been shifting both 205s and 208s (and other part-time 'cases) on the fly for as long as I can remember.

Maybe there's a misunderstanding going on here? To me, "shift on the fly" is the ability to change between 2WD and 4WD while the vehicle is moving. That's also what the manufacturers refer to when advertising a system as shift on the fly - which I think GM coined.

Shifting between high and low range with the vehicle in motion is a different matter altogether. No manufacturer condones that, as far as I know. Yet, it's usually no different than shifting into a non-synchro granny low 1st gear. Just like shifting a non-synchro transmission, it simply requires matching speed and engine rpm.

Having an automatic in front of the 'case makes it a bit trickier, but it's usually fully doable, with little or no grinding.
The 205 is the same as a non-synchro tranny. If you can time it right, it'll shift while rolling, miss it and it'll grind. I believe my visor has a sticker that specifically states to stop before shifting for my 1028A1 though. I'll have to look when I get home.

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