mep002a starting throttle position

[kwfiggatt]

Hi folks,

I have a new to me mep-002a that I'm resurrecting. So far, all that I've had to do is clean the rust and sludge out of the fuel tank and change all filters. It will start and run, but the vernier throttle knob has to be closed for it to get any fuel and start. Is this normal?

Also, should the field need flashed every time the unit is started - ie started twice in a 10 minute period?

Thanks! Kevin

 

[doghead]

Should only need to be flashed when it does not make power(seldom).

Half way out for the throttle. Sometimes the solenoid does not lift enough or the linkage sticks on them. Hold it up with your finger when you crank it and see it if fires right up with throttle halfway out. Lube it well if needed.

I never touch my throttle.

Do not idle these units ever.

 

[kwfiggatt]

Should only need to be flashed when it does not make power(seldom).

Half way out for the throttle. Sometimes the solenoid does not lift enough or the linkage sticks on them. Hold it up with your finger when you carank it and see it if fires right up with throttle halfway out. Lube it well if needed.

I never touch my throttle.

Do not idle these units ever.

Ok - thanks for the quick reply. I'll try lubing the linkage and see what happens. It may be my marginal batteries not giving the solenoid enough voltage too. I have a couple of 35 AH agm batteries that I got for cheap, but they seem to be undersized.

Thanks again!

Kevin

 

[Guyfang]

Check the linkage good. It has a spring inside the long arm, that can bind up. And the swivels on the ends are often pinched or froze up.

 

[rustystud]

Hi folks,

I have a new to me mep-002a that I'm resurrecting. So far, all that I've had to do is clean the rust and sludge out of the fuel tank and change all filters. It will start and run, but the vernier throttle knob has to be closed for it to get any fuel and start. Is this normal?

Also, should the field need flashed every time the unit is started - ie started twice in a 10 minute period?

Thanks! Kevin

Actually these MEPs get "flashed" every time their started. When they really need a good flashing (when they totally loose all magnetism) then you just keep holding the start switch over even after it starts. When the unit starts to make power you can release it.

 

[kwfiggatt]

Actually these MEPs get "flashed" every time their started. When they really need a good flashing (when they totally loose all magnetism) then you just keep holding the start switch over even after it starts. When the unit starts to make power you can release it.

Would there be gear crashing if you hit the start switch to flash it after it's already started? Say the genny has just been started but then you notice that it isn't producing power?

 

[Triple Jim]

No, unless the starter lockout switch isn't working. There's a switch that prevents the starter from running once the engine is running, so you can move the switch back to "start" to flash the exciter field without hurting anything.

The problem is that since the field got flashed when you were starting the engine, it's unlikely that doing it again will fix a no-output problem.

 

[kwfiggatt]

Ok hmmm. I started it once and it wasn't generating power. I shut it down and restarted then it was generating again. Flashing is just to restore some magnetism to get everything started generating, correct? There should be residual magnetism if the generator was started previously the same day, I would think - it shouldn't go away that quickly, should it?

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[doghead]

All of this info is also readable in the -10 TM(aka operators manual).

Read your data plates too (they even tell you what TM to read).

 

[Triple Jim]

There should be residual magnetism if the generator was started previously the same day, I would think - it shouldn't go away that quickly, should it?

The field gets flashed by the flashing circuit every time you start the engine. When you're holding the switch and the starter is cranking, the flashing circuit, if working correctly, is putting current through the exciter field (flashing it). If it needs to be re-flashed after it's running, there is probably something that's not right. The problem could even be the flashing circuit isn't doing its job.

You might take a quick look at the diode board in the box under the output lugs. The resistor on that board sets the flashing current. If something damaged that resistor, you might not be getting flashing current.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Just out of curiosity how are you determining whether its making power or not? The reason I ask is that I have had one of my units act flakey and sometimes not make power (@ convenience outlets/output terminals). However, once I exercised AC Output Reconnection Switch a few times (engine OFF) as well as the AC circuit breaker, it started making power again. However its been intermittent (only after its been turned off overnight, not while running & making power) and only upon initial start-up. I plan to open up the distribution box when I have some spare time and use some contact cleaner (Deoxit D5) on the Reconnection Switch to see if that remedies the intermittent power situation. Anyway, just want to throw this out that there are other causes of "no power output" vs a loss of residual magnetism...

 

[Guyfang]

Where are you making your measurements for AC voltage?

 

[Triple Jim]

Good point, Chainbreaker. I had a failure of a regulator board that caused an intermittent zero output too. One of the small transistors had an intermittent problem, and when it went into problem mode, it made the main transistor go to full output. That was enough to shut off the field output windings of CVT1 and stop the generator output.

It's pretty rare when a bad regulator causes zero output, but you can test that by taking the wire off terminal 14 of the regulator and taping it up so it doesn't contact anything. If the generator output then goes high, like 170v/340v, there's reason to at least test the regulator or swap it with a known good one.