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1953 M37 dumping gas into the crankcase

Lenny

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Last Fall I took the truck out for an 8 mile ride. It was point A to point B with no stops. The engine seemed to be running OK at driving speed. I got to my destination and as I was pulling into the parking lot naturally I slowed up and I became aware that the engine was running poorly. I happened to look down at the oil pressure gauge and I noticed that there was very little oil pressure. I immediately shut the engine off and let it sit for about an hour.

After that time I then checked the oil dipstick and it appeared to be dry. I borrowed 4 quarts of oil, dumped it in and saw the pressure come right up. With the truck running I looked for leaks, and except for the usual minor ones there was nothing remarkable.

On the way home there was a cloud of white smoke behind me that could have hidden an invading army. I didn't know whether in my haste I might have spilled some oil on the exhaust manifold, or I was actually burning it through the engine. I suspected the latter but I seemed to have decent oil pressure nearly all the way home and I really didn't want to stop to investigate this on the road.

As I was slowing to pull into my driveway that's when I noticed that the pressure had dropped down around almost nothing again. I had no time to deal with it at the time so I parked the the truck for two days. When I next checked the dipstick, to my utter surprise the oil level was two quarts high and it was the viscosity of kerosene.

I haven't investigated this any further yet because it's just been so cold up here, and I find that as I get older I seem to be able to tolerate it less and less. So I have been anxiously waiting for Spring to do this. In the meantime I've since talked to several local guys in the club and I've learned that a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm is a common cause of this problem.

So I would like to explore my options with this. I've seen some very expensive rebuilt pumps out there and I've also seen rebuild kits. Some people are saying not to use the NOS rebuild kits because the crappy modern day gas will ruin them in short order. Then there are people who offer rebuild kits, like Then and now automotive in New York, however some others question their reliability. So I'm really confused as to what to do.

I'm an electronics technician by trade, but I consider myself a pretty good mechanic, and I think that I may be able to do this rebuild job, but I think that I might need a bit of guidance here. I just don't want to buy inappropriate parts or get in over my head. Has anyone done this rebuild, are there reputable reasonably priced suppliers out there, and if so could you please advise me on this? This last question is probably too much to hope for but are there any UTube videos that go into detail on this subject that anyone may know of?

I miss my truck and really want to get it back on the road this Spring. Thanks for reading this and for any help. Lenny
 

Lenny

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I forgot something. I heard mention of a "fuel side of the pump". I have since learned that
there is also a separate vacuum side that operates the wipers too. Is
this correct? And if so does that, or rather should that be rebuilt
also? I also thought about trying to use a civilian pump but then
would I have no wipers? Lenny
 

just me

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The pump on an M37 would not be my first choice for learning how to rebuild fuel pumps. If there is a more complex mechanical pump out there, I haven't seen it. With the TM or a good set of instructions and the ability to make a few special tools it is doable in a few hours. If all the check valves are good and you only need to change the diaphragms, it is only slight bugger to do. Getting all the connecting links hooked to the operating arms is an exercise in patience.
The bigger issue is running the truck out of oil or driving with gas diluted fuel. The damage to the engine is usually severe and requires a full rebuild. Continuing to drive when you notice an issue is never a good idea unless you have deep pockets. Good luck.
 

maccus

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I agree that were it me I would not rebuild a military issue M37 fuel pump as my first try at rebuilding a pump. And yes some of the NOS kits out there are old kits with the old material that does not like the new stuff they are calling gas. Just give these folks a call and they can give you your options. They are very good at what they do.

I will send my pump out to them soon to have it redone so I know that it will work well when I am somewhere out in the hills. Being stuck on some mountain top is not what I need to do.

http://www.then-now-auto.com/
 

clinto

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I agree that were it me I would not rebuild a military issue M37 fuel pump as my first try at rebuilding a pump. And yes some of the NOS kits out there are old kits with the old material that does not like the new stuff they are calling gas. Just give these folks a call and they can give you your options. They are very good at what they do.

I will send my pump out to them soon to have it redone so I know that it will work well when I am somewhere out in the hills. Being stuck on some mountain top is not what I need to do.

http://www.then-now-auto.com/
They do nice work. I send them M38A1 fuel pumps, which are similar to the M37.
 

Lenny

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I just tested the vacuum section of the pump by cranking the engine with the ignition off and I get 15lbs at cranking speed. So Midwest military tells me that this rebuild will be easier because I won't have to open the vacuum side.

So I pulled the pump. It was a bit crowded but we got it out. I was caked with oil and grease but luckily there was so much oil down there nothing was frozen and the lines as well as the pump came right off. I will clean it up and I'll order the fuel section kit.

And as an added plus Midwest told me that if on the offhand chance I get lost during this rebuild I can send everything to them and they will complete the rebuild of the fuel section for me. I'm certain there will be an extra charge for that but I thought that was very generous. So I won't know until I fire it up with fresh oil but as long as I didn't cook the engine by driving a small amount with diluted oil I'm that much further to getting my baby back on the road. Thanks to everyone for all your input. Lenny
 

m1010plowboy

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Oil dillutant cold temperature

Not real sure about the M37 engine but up north we'd add gasoline to the Early Deuce, 302 engine oil to keep it fluid. It certainly doesn't say that it would "extend engine life" and is really designed for extreme weather conditions. Keep us posted on what happens after you get things running again. It would be good to know that a little gas in the crankcase doesn't cause any harm.

CDN-OM9-819A Operator's Manual


P3240225.jpg
 

Lenny

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I never heard of that practice as outlined in the page you sent, Plowboy. It must have been written a long time ago before multi viscosity oil. I remember using straight 30W back in the 60's. Did they even have multi back then? My memory really sucks.

I honestly don't know about the extremes you can experience in Canada. The last few years here in Southern New Hampshire we rarely have seen much below 0 degrees F. I don't know but I would think that today even in Canada with a good 10W30, 10W40 or even the 5W30 we use in our cars you shouldn't have to use gas in the crankcase. That just sounds like an awful thing to have to do.

I did find it interesting too that in the several examples of oil dilution that the TM describes it never mentions what the resultant viscosity becomes after the gas is added. Do you have any ideas about that? Lenny
 

m1010plowboy

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Lenny;1994066 Did they even have multi back then? I did find it interesting too that in the several examples of oil dilution that the TM describes it never mentions what the resultant viscosity becomes after the gas is added. Do you have any ideas about that? Lenny[/QUOTE said:
This manual was pumped out in 1964 and looking for the date on the creation of multi-viscosity oil evades me right now. One would think that 30% gasoline in oil at ANY temperature would flow like water.....but I don't know. I started reading about the mm2/second viscosity measurement so if anyone wants to know how to measure viscosity, it's right here https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/engine_oil_history.shtml

Found a reference to the 3/4 Dodge SMP and the OP manual 7610-21-102-1984 (OM9-840) so at some point I'll research more on the M37. I do know that a Dodge will be in my barn at some point, just not sure if it will be a Queen Mary, an M37 or the M152 Dodge. Picked up my first M37 Engine block that was going to be scrapped last year so we saved it as a tear-down/education/ parts block. We have a lot to learn so we can "afford" to forget half of it!

P3250259.jpgP3250257.jpg
 

rosco

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Not an MV, but I restored my Dad's 1956 International S120 4x4 and have the original Owner's Manual. It says much the same about the dilution of engine oil, but kerosene is recommended, instead of gasoline. Also to use it to dilute the other gear boxes, differentials & steering boxes. 90 W gear lube will just make a trench in the lube, & you can't hardly steer a truck with a mechanical steering box @ -40 F or less.
 
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