M54 transfer shot.

[frank8003]

What TM are you using? Maybe there's an updated one or a different one....Jon

Say again

What TM or TM's are you referring to? I refer to post #7.
There is much knowledge/expertise available here.
Please state which TM.
This one?
View attachment transfer jig.pdf

 

[dmetalmiki]

Task completed.

Ok. firstly thank you everyone for the input. T.M.9-2320-211-35 Is as good as they come. But, the details simply too vague.I have yet to even see a complete schematic showing the sprag assembly when withdrawing the case.
So after taking some Serious 'consideration' (?) I really got at this thing.
And ignoring the T.M. completely. Figured it as this. (As it CAN be explained quite simply).
REAR. 1. Take out Box. 2. Remove drive coupling. 3. Remove Hand brake, Drum, and all accessories. 4. Remove bearing covers.
FRONT. Remove drive coupling., and the air shift unit (four nuts removes the case), 5/8 socket undoes the centre nut to allow the unit to be removed. At this juncture remove the gear selector (High Low) on the case side remove cover, Security wire, and retaing bolt selector springs etc. You May pull out the selector shaft. You then take off the front input cover . It may well come out with the sprag assembly. Or Not. Remove circlip, and it will.
5. Undo all the nuts and bolts round the front cover. Insert 3 nuts and bolts through a chain around the the front cover AFTER pushing the cover up using 3 threaded bolts in the holes provided. Use a lifting source lift out the gear assemblies. 6. Removing the circlips allows the synchro shaft to drop down and out as you lift. . SO HAVE IT LOW AND SUPPORTED TO DROP OUT UNDER CONTROL it is very heavy.
Some pictures after I took some 'medicine' to assist the situation. I am GLAD that part is over. Problem now to obtain a synchro mechanism from somewhere. But I will most probably take the one out of the camper and make one good box out of the two. But, That's for next week.

 

[dmetalmiki]

The damage. Weak componant.

I was More than disappointed to see such a weak design. Scammell KRAZ URAL use 'DOGS' Solid, tough, dependable, and almost indestructible. Brass gun metal synchros?. In a combat Wrecker Truck?.
That is no way 'tough'. If I could, (can), I Would, will, rid the brass and try to have good SOLID engagement. The brass gun metal soft stuff is totally destroyed. See pictures. A dog clutch would never end up like that.
However, a big thank you all the members that posted up pictures schematics, and advice. It DEFINITELY helped out.
(Wi' a bit'a ..perla!) And the dreaded Maalox for the 'indigestion'.

 

[dmetalmiki]

ADDENDUM>. (And) After ALL that struggling, note, the 'offending' part (the bearing pressed on the shaft) Has no effect or influence on the disassembly procedure whatsoever!. ( I just WISH the T.M. had made that abundantly clear from the outset). It's just an 'interpretation' problem. I hope my post and pictures may be of assistance to someone in the future..The picture shows that 'blasted thing!' still hanging there in all it's glory!. (But yes, it would need and arbour press or similar). I,m not bothered, it does not affect what I am repairing. (I cussed it..got no reaction!).

 

[red]

Good to know that it is much easier to disassemble than what was thought.

 

[dmetalmiki]

That's a fact. However I have to take the noisy transfer out of the camper, and build one good one from the two. That, will be a huge task, and will require ALL hands. Fortunately the Easter holidays approach and the helpers should be here.

 

[JDToumanian]

T.M.9-2320-211-35 Is as good as they come. But, the details simply too vague.

I'm glad you're making progress, but I think you should try a different TM... There are in fact better ones out there, which I think would not have caused you so much frustration. My copy of TM9-2320-211-35 is dated 1964 and is printed so dark that the pictures are worthless. TM9-2320-211-34-2-1, which Frank posted an excerpt from above, is dated 1981 and it has nice clear pictures. Not only that, but it is much more detailed, and the procedures have changed... It no longer calls for a press, and instead uses only pullers and the threaded jacking screw holes in the covers. The order of disassembly has been revised from the older TM, so, like my post above, you would have removed the front output housing with the flange and 'innards' still intact. The only difference I can see for you at this point is that the gear assemblies would have been left behind in the case instead of hanging from the front cover.

Personally, I prefer to use the newest TMs (but I still have and refer to the older ones), and since the M39 series trucks and M809 series use mostly the same components (same transmission and transfer case, as well as a lot of other stuff) my go-to is TM9-2320-260-34-1 for the M809 series and dated 1994.

Jon

 

[dmetalmiki]

Thank you for the advices, Yes you are correct, the older T.M.s certainly are hard to see and decipher. It does make one wonder who writes this stuff up. Whilst it may be difficult to write up a manual, sometimes a more practical and methodical as well as EASILY understood form of conveying instructions is much better. But there are plenty of confusing manuals out there, including a whole lot of modern light commercial and light vehicle manuals. No names. I personally think a Good example of a well presented and easily understood manual with great schematics and how too's was offered by the 'Motors' series.) Chilton's a close runner up). I have them all 1957-74. (I've had the cars to go with them. Great days.)

 

[frank8003]

Research everywhere then operate the wrenches
We all wish you success

 

[dmetalmiki]

O.K. After examination it is the High Ratio syncro ring that is torn up. Apperantly the truck was in a boggy field, with the engine running, and in high ratio first gear.. The guy let out the clutch, and the truck went 'bump' and stayed where it was!. (Yeah really(shudd'a run a landrover. tough!!??)) HUMPH!
Any way, I was wondering if any member here might have in their possession a broken or old disused T138 Transfer box in bits, and willing to supply just the HIGH GEAR syncro drive ring?. (As the postage would be quite reasonable.).
The T1138 would be great for up gearing, but it's a hassle making it fit.