Fan not coming on at 220

[erasedhammer]

I've mainly noticed that when my Cadillac solenoid is plugged in the fan does turn off, but when going steep hills the temp just keeps going up and I have to pull over and unplug the valve to get it to cool down.

I assume I should just replace the Cadillac valve?

On a related issue, it looks like I may have overheated the engine a little.
Cadillac solenoid was plugged in and I was climbing a very steep hill, 2 miles of 40% grade, and unfortunately it was dark and it looked like the needle was staying constamt at 200.
I got to the top and gave it a better look and it was past 240!
Got out to go unplug the solenoid and noticed a lot of smoke coming out of the surge tank, gave that a look and I had evaporated all the coolant in the tank.
I replaced the coolant and checked over the engine and didn't see any damage, but what sort of damage could this cause?

 

[Bravojmc]

If you know the fan/cooling system isn't working why would you drive it!
I'd find the issue before you drive it again. This could cost you an engine....

 

[doghead]

May have already.

 

[Bravojmc]

May have already.

Ugh.... yup

 

[BLK HMMWV]

What sort of damage does driving any car without water do .

 

[98G]

What sort of damage does driving any car without water do .

Let me count the ways :

1) scored bearings
2) cracked heads
3) cracked block
4) headgasket
5) accelerated wear on all surfaces
6) warped heads
7) warped block
altered tolerances
9) ruined oil
10) scored cylinder walls

That's my top 10. Next?

 

[erasedhammer]

If you know the fan/cooling system isn't working why would you drive it!
I'd find the issue before you drive it again. This could cost you an engine....

Just to be clear, as soon as I spotted the problem I refilled the coolant. So I didn't drive more than half a mile with LOW coolant, not zero (only took 2 gallons to refill it engine cold) temperature was constant at 260 as I was going to turn the fan on.

And the cooling system does still work. I just have the leave the fan on all the time, the engine always stays at 175 in the cold weather here. This was a couple days ago and I have been watching everything closely and I have not noticed abnormal.

 

[doghead]

What sort of damage does driving any car without water do .

Irreversible.

 

[LouWon]

I would also replace the temperature sensor on the coolant manifold near the thermostat
Check the expansion tank, pay attention to the in / out coolant lines nipples, they tend to block, it,s easier to remove the tank take a 5/32 drill bit and clean both holes.
While the coolant is partially removed , change the thermostat and also get a new rad cap for the expansion tank
It might seem like a lot of stuff to do, but been there done that...

 

[Bulldogger]

Remove and inspect the temp sensor as noted, and inspect and test all wiring connections. At the same time, verify proper electrical connections using the schematic, i.e. make sure the temp sensor circuit is properly wired. Remove, disassemble, clean, reassemble and reinstall Cadillac valve. Purge fan clutch system of air per TM. That fixed the problem for me. Also, make sure your steering pump is properly filled with ATF.
I second the recommendation to replace the thermostat. It's a cheap part that often degrades with time. I replace the thermostat of EVERY vehicle I buy as part of the "new to me" maintenance list. I'm less fussy about radiator caps, but if yours is in any way looking funny, replace it too.
Bulldogger

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

If your foot is buried into the floor on your uphill climb...your fan will never engage because the fan cutoff is engaged.
My M1097 has a switch on the dash, added by the military that turns the fan on and off at my will.
I kinda like it on those hot summer days...I'm able to run the fan on long freeway drives, this M1097 seems to hover around 210...but we all know about gauges.

 

[erasedhammer]

If your foot is buried into the floor on your uphill climb...your fan will never engage because the fan cutoff is engaged.
My M1097 has a switch on the dash, added by the military that turns the fan on and off at my will.
I kinda like it on those hot summer days...I'm able to run the fan on long freeway drives, this M1097 seems to hover around 210...but we all know about gauges.

Actually my cut off switch is currently not connected. But I see the value of having a switch for the fan in the cab, how would I go about doing that?

 

[Action]

Actually my cut off switch is currently not connected. But I see the value of having a switch for the fan in the cab, how would I go about doing that?

One option would be to wire the switch inline at the point where you disconnected the wires to turn the fan out. The switch would do the same as disconnecting or connecting those wires...

 

[TOBASH]

What sort of damage does driving any car without water do .

Depends... Is it a Volkswagen Bug from the 1960's?... Or is it a GM water cooled engine that will warp and rip up rings and such?

:/

 

[TOBASH]

Just to be clear, as soon as I spotted the problem I refilled the coolant. So I didn't drive more than half a mile with LOW coolant, not zero (only took 2 gallons to refill it engine cold) temperature was constant at 260 as I was going to turn the fan on.

And the cooling system does still work. I just have the leave the fan on all the time, the engine always stays at 175 in the cold weather here. This was a couple days ago and I have been watching everything closely and I have not noticed abnormal.

I would suggest getting the engine cylinders compression tested ASAP before any other significant drives.

I would suggest an immediate high quality oil change IF the engine specs are OK.

I would suggest a new engine if the specs are off.

I would STRONGLY suggest a new radiator and I would strongly suggest a thermometer test of radiator fluid while running AND while observing temp guage to correlate if it is off by a few degrees. Only do this if your engine is OK.

Drain and replace your radiator fluid with correct NEW radiator fluid AFTER a flush with DILUTE plumbers acid/muriatic acid for a quick radiator fix.

Remember, these are all old radiators and cooling systems.

Also look for a water pump or hose leak.

Best,

T

 

[erasedhammer]

I would suggest getting the engine cylinders compression tested ASAP before any other significant drives.

I would suggest an immediate high quality oil change IF the engine specs are OK.

I would suggest a new engine if the specs are off.

I would STRONGLY suggest a new radiator and I would strongly suggest a thermometer test of radiator fluid while running AND while observing temp guage to correlate if it is off by a few degrees. Only do this if your engine is OK.

Drain and replace your radiator fluid with correct NEW radiator fluid AFTER a flush with DILUTE plumbers acid/muriatic acid for a quick radiator fix.

Remember, these are all old radiators and cooling systems.

Also look for a water pump or hose leak.

Best,

T

What do you mean by if my engine is okay? Do you mean the condition of the engine originally?
Because my 6.2 was rebuilt in 2013, when the vehicle was decommissioned. As soon as I got it, I replaced all the fluids and had everything checked and the mechanic said everything looked in good condition.

 

[Action]

What do you mean by if my engine is okay? Do you mean the condition of the engine originally?
Because my 6.2 was rebuilt in 2013, when the vehicle was decommissioned. As soon as I got it, I replaced all the fluids and had everything checked and the mechanic said everything looked in good condition.

I believe TOBASH means if your engine is OK after you overheated it without coolant in it.

 

[TOBASH]

I believe TOBASH means if your engine is OK after you overheated it without coolant in it.

Thanks Action... and yes, Action is 100% corrct.

I believe you have placed your engine at risk erasedhammer. You need to ensure in is still good for use.

260 degrees radiator fluid, (and low radiator fluid), could easily translate into higher temperatures in the engine that can warp and damage parts.

IMHO

Best,

T

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Whatever damage has been done, if any...it's not reversible, just drive it till it blows.

 

[TOBASH]

Whatever damage has been done, if any...it's not reversible, just drive it till it blows.

Understood RWH, and I don't disagree...

My point is that this engine may no longer be reliable for long distances and may break down or be unreliable.

A simple compression test will give many answers.

RWH is essentially saying que sera sera... whatever will be will be. I agree.

If your engine is damaged it is irreversible.

My point is, don't you want to know if there is damage?

Best,

T