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Leaking Transfer Case - Best Kits for Repair

The FLU farm

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So I'll correct myself here......what I've got dripping off the crossmember is pretty red ATF.....after wiping down the frame crossmember last weekend I still have drips this weekend even while the truck is sitting for a week, so somewhat troubling to see ATF dripping off the crossmember with truck not even running for a week.....to be determined whether it is from transmission (my bet since it looks fresh) or from the transfer case (maybe)......but will get it into a shop for seal replacement in both in all likelihood......
Before driving anywhere, I hope you have checked the fluid level in the transmission and transfer case by now.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
What"s the socket size for the NP 208 fill plug? I tried to remove mine this afternoon with the biggest crescent wrench I had, but it wouldn't budge (so I call bs on the previous owner's claim that he checked the fluid level in the transfer case)!

My transmission fluid level was +1 pint low on the dipstick, so I'm leaning towards transmission being source of my ATF leak......until I can check fluid in the transfer case.

Also, noticed that my rear drive shaft slides freely in the caps at the rear diff, is that normal?

On a side note, so many things are loose on my '84 M1028......pintle hook at rear bumper was loose (I removed it since I don't need it and need a step on the bumper instead), and the spare tire carrier was loose as well (aired up the spare and tightened all the mounting hardware), and the front battery mount through the right front fenderwell was loose (tightened that as well).

Will soon install a new harmonic balancer and hope that contributes to removing vibration issues.
 

cucvrus

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30 MM. I hope that helps. And the rear drive shaft should not slide in the straps at the yoke. Worst case scenario. You may need a new yoke and new straps. Good Luck. I bought a few yokes from Yukon Gear.
 
159
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Location
Houston/TX
Hence the request for the socket size for the transfer case fill plug......I have a good selection of tools, but nothing up to 30MM in socket size.....biggest socket I had on hand was 1" and 24 mm.

I sure hope that by then you have ditched the adjustable wrenches and will use the correct tools for the job.
 

The FLU farm

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Hence the request for the socket size for the transfer case fill plug......I have a good selection of tools, but nothing up to 30MM in socket size.....biggest socket I had on hand was 1" and 24 mm.
Glad to hear that. I think I'm allergic to adjustable wrenches.
But maybe your good tool selection should be augmented with a pair of calipers - or at least a tape measure?
 

Chaski

Active member
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Burney/CA
30mm/25.4=1.181"... only about six thousandths of an inch away from 1 3/16"

A good thin wall 1 3/16" socket is good for a couple other uses. It is the right size for the pinion nut on the Dana 60 front (why it needs to be thin wall... not impact), and it is also correct for the pitman arm nut on a 2wd steering box.
 
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cobia2017

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chesterfield, va
Did the M1008's come with 205's and 208's? And how do you definitively tell the difference?...I assume that inhavr a 208 as a skid plate is present below it and it has red fluid in it
 

The FLU farm

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The easiest is probably to take a magnet to the case. 205s are not aluminum. Or, look at photos of the two and compare to what yours look like.
205s also came with skid plates, and have been filled with ATF, so those are not good methods for finding out/guessing which kind it is.
 
159
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Location
Houston/TX
I use a pour spout on the quart of ATF, or use a hand pump and plastic hose to pump from ATF bottle to transfer case......I use the latter method to fill front/rear differentials when I drain them.

30 mm also injectors size. When you refill t/c do you have to use a funnel with long hose?
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Replaced my transfer case mounts today (new ones from ORD) in advance of getting harmonic balancer and motor mounts (from ORD) replaced tomorrow, to then be followed by transmission output shaft seal and transfer case input seals replaced.....and whatever else needs to be done to address really bad ATF leak.

Original transfer case seals were very spongy, no doubt contributing some to the vibration issue I'm experiencing at the bed of the truck......which I think is driven by harmonic balancer.

Also, can anybody check me for clearance of passenger side exhaust from the transfer case? I've got like 3/8" clearance between my passenger exhaust pipe and the transfer case.....can can see mark on the exhaust pipe where the two have touched......I could maybe move the transfer case a little towards the driver side within the crossmember mounting holes, but not much......thinking my passenger exhaust pipe needs to be rotated outward.

t case mounts 2.jpgt case mounts.jpgexhaust pipe.jpg
 

The FLU farm

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Original transfer case seals were very spongy, no doubt contributing some to the vibration issue I'm experiencing at the bed of the truck......which I think is driven by harmonic balancer.
I hope you don't mean that the transfer case seals had anything to do with vibration. Except for ruining the mounts at the transfer case.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
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Location
NH
Not on a th400/np208 combo, but I have seen them crack on ones with the 205 cast iron cases. So completely plausible it could happen on any combination of drivetrain components.

I have heard of the th400 case bell-housing cracking more often. Maybe you should check yours carefully now?

I bet that is your vibration issue, that crack looks to go around the whole adapter, so the transfer is only being held on by 1 leg, which is allowing for most likely a lot of deflection.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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