Alt issue, not OEM.

[corelokt]

I've got a .5 amp draw that goes away if I unplug my driver's side alt plug. I also have an alt light on all the time. However, I just rewired my whole dash with all aftermarket gauges. I added new dash dummy lights too.
When I did the gen lights I ran the orange black wire to power both lights and connected the brown and brown red wires to separate lights. According to the diagram I found here, those are the gen light wires and 12v feed to power the two light circuits. It's odd to me that one stays lit and makes me wonder if I've wired that alt wrong? If I have the sense and excite wires backwards would it cause this?

 

[corelokt]

L shows .3 amps
F shows .2 amps
S shows 0
This is with the charge output wire connected.

 

[Barrman]

Since most of your wiring system is all experimental. Why don't you just go all the way and make it totally experimental?

I think your truck is still a 12 volt truck with 24 volt starting? If so, then since you have isolated ground alternator. Do without the alternator indicator lights. Each battery gets a big red wire to its respective alternator. Then the sensing wire for each alternator gets to go to its own relay. Which is hooked back to its battery. The relays can be turned on and off by 12 volts with the key.

A volt meter for each alternator can be included between the relay and the respective battery.

The stock CUCV system is supposed to work pretty much along these lines but it seems your indicator lights and such are causing you issues. You already took part of a step away from the stock system. Go ahead and take the next step is my thought. I wired my CUCV alternatored M715 like I described above. 12 volt truck with 24 volt starting and dual alternators. It works great and I can tell by my gauges which alternator is putting out what.

 

[corelokt]

I'm running all 12 volt. Gear reduction 12v starter. Still, like the idea. I'm out of mounting space for gauges right now tho.
Pyro, boost, tack, oil psi, water temp, oil temp, trans temp, driver's fuel, passenger fuel and rear fuel gauges, fuel psi, trans pressure and volt.
If I redo the dash again someday I'd do it tho.
I may need to run a separate wire for each light or retrace the sense and excite wires and hope one is backward.
Was hoping for an answer before going back into the wire looms. I have at least tried to use a varied color coded wire harness and multi circuit cables where I could.

 

[The FLU farm]

I'm out of mounting space for gauges right now tho.

You can use a single gauge wired through a switch. Flip it one way to read one battery, the other way to read the other battery.

 

[gimpyrobb]

12v only but 2 alts? Sounds like a recipe for disaster.

 

[Barrman]

OK, so you did not make the CS130 alternators isolated ground? I thought in one of your other threads you had.

That being the case things get easier. If the alternators are next to each other, you only need to have factory wiring to the truck for one of them. This thread is about a Duramax, but applies the same to a 12 volt system trying to run two alternators:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...electrical/222068-dual-alternator-wiring.html

Same thing applies if they are mounted across the engine bay from each other. Wire up one like it is supposed to be for a 12 volt truck and then piggy back the other one to it.

 

[corelokt]

I have cs144 Alts. Not a big deal difference in wiring. She would two Alts be an issue? One works when draw is low, others picks up for a heavy load. I just need to figure out this light thing.

 

[The FLU farm]

So if there's no heavy draw the second alternator won't work, if I understand it correctly. Maybe that's why the light for the second one won't go out? There's no draw.

 

[corelokt]

That may be it???