FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

The hard part of this is not the patience, but the time that I have to respond to any GP if it does not match the inspection report. GP says that you have to contact them with in one business day of receiving the FLU to resolve disputes. If it is delivered on Friday and I have the weekend to work, I may be able to get enough done to have it ready, but ready or not I need to verify that the engine starts and the transmission is minimally functional. Unless it is all just an outright lie, they have already done those things, and me repeating the process should not do additional damage.

I wouldn't worry about having your evaluation done within 24 hours. GP is pretty good about making things right after a sale. At least that has been my experience.
Of course, I don't start the conversation with ragging on them, or demanding anything. Maybe that helps?

What I would worry about is starting/driving an unknown machine, even if it is only for a few feet. As I recall, the front hydraulic tank on yours is low. We don't know how low, but suppose it's too low. Yeah, GP drove it and it didn't break. But at what point will the pump give up? Or at least suffer damage? Could be 50 hours of running time, could be 5 seconds.

So do I follow my own advice? Of course not! Runners get driven a 1/4 mile down the driveway. But I check as much as I can while the FLU is still on the trailer.
In one case it was obvious that the front hydraulic tank was low from the photos, so I asked the driver to bring some THF and fill the tank before loading the SEE. To me, that was well worth the few dollars it cost, even if the fluid was coming out (replaced with AW-32) as soon as the SEE got down to the garage.

 

[911joeblow]

Nice. That should be good for an extra 5, maybe 10 mph.

I think I might even start to get scared at 65MPH!

 

[The FLU farm]

I think I might even start to get scared at 65MPH!

If you decide to try going that speed, please consider including me in your will. I'd like to get what's left of your SEE afterwards.

 

[911joeblow]

If you decide to try going that speed, please consider including me in your will. I'd like to get what's left of your SEE afterwards.

The SEE would probably just shake it off, with me a pool of goo inside...

 

[General Hood]

I wouldn't worry about having your evaluation done within 24 hours. GP is pretty good about making things right after a sale. At least that has been my experience.
Of course, I don't start the conversation with ragging on them, or demanding anything. Maybe that helps?








What I would worry about is starting/driving an unknown machine, even if it is only for a few feet. As I recall, the front hydraulic tank on yours is low. We don't know how low, but suppose it's too low. Yeah, GP drove it and it didn't break. But at what point will the pump give up? Or at least suffer damage? Could be 50 hours of running time, could be 5 seconds.

So do I follow my own advice? Of course not! Runners get driven a 1/4 mile down the driveway. But I check as much as I can while the FLU is still on the trailer.
In one case it was obvious that the front hydraulic tank was low from the photos, so I asked the driver to bring some THF and fill the tank before loading the SEE. To me, that was well worth the few dollars it cost, even if the fluid was coming out (replaced with AW-32) as soon as the SEE got down to the garage.

The good news is there like a 0 % chance GP is driving the sold SEEs around their lot between the auction and the actual pick up.......like they've been known to do with other MVs that are sold, so as a buyer, you don't have that extra mileage and dents / dings etc etc that doesn't match the vehicle as advertised

Texas SEEs seem to have been stored for quite a long time before going up for auction. Check the oil dipstick, as they've been known to overfill for some unknown reason. They pull the doghouse to take photos for the auction, and I've seen more on the ground or in the grass than put back in the cab, and I attribute that to pure laziness.

GP lot employees use jumper slave cables to jump start the vehicles for inspection and load out. I keep a long set in one of my MVs as it is a good thing to have around when the need arises. I see them from time to time on epay. Also watch the gov auctions, as 24V battery chargers go up for auction periodically. I have one and can confirm it will start a vehicle with dead batteries. These usually sell cheap enough to justify the cost to have one in the garage for that time of need.

I agree, AW-32 is the way to go on hydraulic fluid. The packing is leaking on one of my cylinders just enough that grass will never grow again where I use it. I've had this SEE for a year and still going through it a little at a time, the cost of having to work for a living and not enough hours left in the day to clean up all my TO DO lists

I've seen as many as 8 buyers picking up FLUs in Texarkana at the same time. The lot loader runs around with a HMMWV jump starting the SEEs and driving them up on the load out trailers or flatbeds, and lets the buyer or buyer rep chain them down. I have seen a driver pick up a hood off the ground, roll down the SEE window and shove it into the cab for transport, but a lot of them get left behind

All the briars and brambles and rat nests incorporated into the Texas SEEs come free of charge

 

[The FLU farm]

It was such a pleasure to hop (okay, maybe "hop" isn't the most correct word with a bum back) into the SEE today and find that there was 60 psi in the tanks, and it fired right up. I mean right up - maybe one and a half revolutions. And that's after it had sat for about two months.

Started the process of soaking the loader bolts on the SHEE in preparation for switching implements, and thought "How easy this would be if only they had put a glob of grease in that cavity." Then thought about other ways to keep water out of there, and happened to look at the HMMH's bolts.Yup, somebody was thinking. Of course, who knows how it looks like in there if the seal isn't perfect.

Then, since tourist season has begun, I outfitted the SEE accordingly. Never know what wayward stuff might come down the driveway.

 

[General Hood]

It was such a pleasure to hop (okay, maybe "hop" isn't the most correct word with a bum back) into the SEE today and find that there was 60 psi in the tanks, and it fired right up. I mean right up - maybe one and a half revolutions. And that's after it had sat for about two months.

Started the process of soaking the loader bolts on the SHEE in preparation for switching implements, and thought "How easy this would be if only they had put a glob of grease in that cavity." Then thought about other ways to keep water out of there, and happened to look at the HMMH's bolts.View attachment 682385Yup, somebody was thinking. Of course, who knows how it looks like in there if the seal isn't perfect.

Then, since tourist season has begun, I outfitted the SEE accordingly. Never know what wayward stuff might come down the driveway.View attachment 682386

Okay, now I want one. Are you going to paint the SEE to match, or visa versa?

 

[The FLU farm]

Okay, now I want one. Are you going to paint the SEE to match, or visa versa?

No, the SEE will remain tan...or whatever color nature makes it over time. Ironically, I was just looking at Titan's web site, and with 25% off today you could get your very own defense against pesky commuter cars, cows, or whatever you have roaming the streets there.

 

[The FLU farm]

... a certain auction site has new 12.5R20 XL's listed ...

Okay, curiosity got the better of me and I looked into those "new" tires. When asked what the DOT code on these are, or date of manufacture, the seller responded "Around 2008".
If that is correct, they should be taken out of service at this point, but definitely not be put into service.
Okay, in my case I could use them since my FLUs rarely exceed 5 mph, or leave the property, so delamination or an outright blowout wouldn't be more than an inconvenience.
But when I can buy tires that are not only better suited for my SEE but also truly new, and for less money, these aren't appealing in the least. To me they wouldn't be even if they weren't half a decade past their "Best by" date, and not even at half the asking price.

Anyway, we should be glad that this seller doesn't sell "new" food.

 

[Another Ahab]

But when I can buy tires that are not only better suited for my SEE but also truly new, and for less money, these aren't appealing in the least. To me they wouldn't be even if they weren't half a decade past their "Best by" date, and not even at half the asking price.

I recognize that there might be multiple variables in answering the following.

But what's the rule of thumb for the "freshness" date of tires:

- Ten years from date of manufacture?

- Twenty years from date of manufacture?

- No single good answer (because of variables)?

 

[alpine44]

Okay, curiosity got the better of me and I looked into those "new" tires. When asked what the DOT code on these are, or date of manufacture, the seller responded "Around 2008".
If that is correct, they should be taken out of service at this point, but definitely not be put into service.
Okay, in my case I could use them since my FLUs rarely exceed 5 mph, or leave the property, so delamination or an outright blowout wouldn't be more than an inconvenience.
But when I can buy tires that are not only better suited for my SEE but also truly new, and for less money, these aren't appealing in the least. To me they wouldn't be even if they weren't half a decade past their "Best by" date, and not even at half the asking price.

Anyway, we should be glad that this seller doesn't sell "new" food.

If they sat in a warehouse, out of the sun, I would not worry about the age. But the price is ridiculous.

Should we start a separate thread listing tires that actually work (as in: have been installed and driven) on a FLU419?

 

[Another Ahab]

Never know what wayward stuff might come down the driveway.View attachment 682386

I believe that you might have single-handedly just solved the universal problem of "herding cats".

 

[Another Ahab]

Should we start a separate thread listing tires that actually work (as in: have been installed and driven) on a FLU419?

It's a good idea.

A good thread title will certainly help those making searches.

 

[The FLU farm]

I recognize that there might be multiple variables in answering the following.

But what's the rule of thumb for the "freshness" date of tires:

- Ten years from date of manufacture?

- Twenty years from date of manufacture?

- No single good answer (because of variables)?

No precise answers, as you already guessed. First, is it a radial or a bias tire? Was the radial made before or after '85? Is it a passenger, light truck, or commercial tire?

Bias tires seem to last practically forever, if built right and especially if kept out of the sun. Generally I have to change them because of cracked sidewalls, but only once the cracks become meaningful enough to warrant it.

Something changed in the radials in the mid-Eighties (okay, I know what, but that's another story) and they started to come unglued, literally. I'd rather drive on a radial from '82 than one made in 2005.

Commercial radial tires, with steel belts in the sidewalls (such as the Michelins on the FLUs), can last much longer than passenger or LT tires. Up to 10 years, I've been told, but since they are normally worn out long before that time comes up, it's usually a non issue.

Someone could write a book about tire construction and aging, and maybe it has been done, but I'm not about to do it here. If someone has specific questions, I'll do my best to answer them. Although maybe that should be a separate thread.

EDIT: I should add that if a tire has been subjected to overloading or under inflation, both resulting in heat buildup, or has had tire goop (shiny stuff) applied to the sidewall, all bets are off when it comes to longevity.

 

[The FLU farm]

If they sat in a warehouse, out of the sun, I would not worry about the age.

For some reason, that reminded me of a T-shirt that one of the Mythbusters used to wear. It read something like "I reject reality and create my own."

 

[General Hood]

I recognize that there might be multiple variables in answering the following.

But what's the rule of thumb for the "freshness" date of tires:

- Ten years from date of manufacture?

- Twenty years from date of manufacture?

- No single good answer (because of variables)?

I read somewhere the govt only keeps tires 4 years, then passes them on. If it's on the internet it has to be true, right?

 

[General Hood]

I believe that you might have single-handedly just solved the universal problem of "herding cats".

My question: Is there somebody behind the wheel? Hey, this would make a good horror movie plot

 

[Another Ahab]

I read somewhere the govt only keeps tires 4 years, then passes them on. If it's on the internet it has to be true, right?

 

[The FLU farm]

I read somewhere the govt only keeps tires 4 years, then passes them on. If it's on the internet it has to be true, right?

That would make perfect sense if it does. After all, to the Govt. it can be more than just an inconvenience to have tires fail.
Well, it can for us, too, and many lives have been lost due to old tires on civilian vehicles.

I wish alpine44 was correct, and that tire age didn't much matter. It would save me a lot of money each year.
Just last week I bought new steer tires for the Pete. The old ones looked maybe six months old, but since I'm probably selling the Pete I couldn't send someone off on tires that were installed in 2005.
Losing a tall sidewall like the 11R24.5's, or the 12.5R20 for that matter, can be a handful. And even if the vehicle stays on the road, the collateral damage is often extensive.
To me it's just not worth the risk, or hassle, so I normally replace tires at five to 10 years, depending on the tire, vehicle, and usage. That I let the Pete's tires go up to 12 years is nothing I'm proud of.

 

[The FLU farm]

My question: Is there somebody behind the wheel? Hey, this would make a good horror movie plot

Now that you mention it, no there isn't. Yet another situation where much lower gears would've been helpful.