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Leaking Transfer Case - Best Kits for Repair

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BradL84D30M1008

Member
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Neither do I!

Original U-joint was sliding in the straps in the original yoke.

I replaced the original U-joint in the driveshaft with the Spicer 1350 and then test fit in the original yoke and had like 1/16" movement back and forth in the yoke, so knew then I needed to replace the yoke - assuming I wanted to use the 1350 U-joint.

Only thing I'm concerned about now is the straps are not exactly the same shape (perfect sphere) as the 1350 U-joint caps......thinking I'll buy another set of straps to see if I get a more exact fit.

The FLU farm said:
So the original yoke didn't have the 1350 measurement? I still don't quite get this.
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BradL84D30M1008

Member
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Yep, but no big deal to unbolt drive shaft.......I'll take the truck to a transmission shop to have rear output seal replaced on the transmission (thinking that's the source of my leak), and then have the new adapter put in at that time to replace the current cracked adapter. Then when it all goes back together it should be good as new.

cucvrus said:
You did the drive shaft before replacing the broken spacer / adapter? You are going to have to undo all that wonderful work again.
Click to expand...
 
Kaiser67M715

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
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Location
NH
I've rarely seen perfect fitting straps, genuine straps from gm are the best, but I think it was $10 for just a strap, and that was on a little 10 bolt axle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Kaiser67M715

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
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Location
NH
The FLU farm said:
Whatever happened to the perfectly functional, and superior in general, yokes with U-bolts?
Click to expand...
They're still out there-I'm not sure about aftermarket-but my brothers 2000 1-ton uses u-bolts, and the 14 bolt I picked up for my half ton uses u-bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,467
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
I bought boxed kits for the u joints on both trucks and blazers. I bought 2 sets of each and they are genuine dana/spicer. Less then $40. for all 4 sets. That was strap and bolts and u bolt lock washers and nuts. By the time I bought them I had found used ones I had stashed. This is the same shop in Harrisburg Pennsylvania that makes up drive shafts for me. I just changed an M1009 rear drive shaft that the caps were spinning in the rear yoke of the drive shaft. Time to have the drive shaft cut and the yoke replaced.
 
rustystud

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
What I have done in the past is bought the 'U'-bolts with 12 point nuts and drilled out the yokes. I cannot remember right now who I bought the bolts from, but they where special hardened bolts with nuts. If you use a drill press and drill from the back side of the yoke it works real well.
 
C

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
FWIW
I swapped yokes and went to one of the u-bolt style ones that use a common Spicer u-bolt. 3 years of abuse and it has been great. Got mine from WFO. Was able to press the old shield off and reuse it on the new yoke.
 
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BradL84D30M1008

Member
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
So I had the TH400/NP208 Adapter replaced today on my '84 M1028.....see pics below.....no big surprise that Dexron III would be leaking through that large a crack!

Per my transmission shop, there simply is an O-ring between the adapter and the TH400, and then a gasket between the adapter and the NP208, and this is what seals the ATF within the transmission system......there is no output shaft seal on the TH400 that would seal off ATF from the void in the adapter......ATF that is in the void of the adapter is in common with the ATF in the transmission pan. There is a seal in the front of the transfer case that seals off its Dexron III within the transfer case, and my transfer case seal was fine, so the source of my ATF leak at the adapter was from the transmission system fluid flowing out the cracked adapter.

No idea what/why/how the adapter was so severely cracked, but it's fixed now.....my first experience ever with this issue so I learned a lot.

IMG_1180.jpgIMG_1178.jpgIMG_1177.jpgIMG_1176.jpgIMG_1175.jpg

BradL84D30M1008 said:
Yep, but no big deal to unbolt drive shaft.......I'll take the truck to a transmission shop to have rear output seal replaced on the transmission (thinking that's the source of my leak), and then have the new adapter put in at that time to replace the current cracked adapter. Then when it all goes back together it should be good as new.
Click to expand...
 
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rustystud

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
BradL84D30M1008 said:
So I had the TH400/NP208 Adapter replaced today on my '84 M1028.....see pics below.....no big surprise that Dexron III would be leaking through that large a crack!

Per my transmission shop, there simply is an O-ring between the adapter and the TH400, and then a gasket between the adapter and the NP208, and this is what seals the ATF within the transmission system......there is no output shaft seal on the TH400 that would seal off ATF from the void in the adapter......ATF that is in the void of the adapter is in common with the ATF in the transmission pan. There is a seal in the front of the transfer case that seals off its Dexron III within the transfer case, and my transfer case seal was fine, so the source of my ATF leak at the adapter was from the transmission system fluid flowing out the cracked adapter.

No idea what/why/how the adapter was so severely cracked, but it's fixed now.....my first experience ever with this issue so I learned a lot.

View attachment 689686View attachment 689687View attachment 689688View attachment 689689View attachment 689690
Click to expand...
Buy the factory "brace" rod. "gmpartsgiant.com" has them for $33.00 . Part #14020856 .
 
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BradL84D30M1008

Member
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
the factory "brace" rod. "gmpartsgiant.com" has them for $33.00 . Part #14020856 .

I tried to buy but got the message instead that the part was discontinued and/or backordered with no ETA.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,467
10,403
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I tried to buy but got the message instead that the part was discontinued and/or backordered with no ETA.

I knew that 2 weeks ago when someone else posted about them being available. They cried foul because someone had one posted for $61. delivered to the front door. Always have guys like that. Steal parts and don't pay for them. Always crying. I am still in the process with a member to get some made up. I have one on 2 trucks now and it sure did not hurt anything. My Terminus M1009 with the new cross member and brace/strut/torque rod in place passed the test after wheeling all weekend. I went over high center a few times and seen my blue paint on the rocks and mud. Very reassuring. Rusty Stud. You missed out. The past weekend was a Red Neck Mecca. Have a great day. Brad I will keep my eyes open for a brace/strut/torque rod for your NP208. Looks fairly easy to make one. 2 pieces of flat bar and some 5/8" round stock. Weld grind make pretty and paint. A piece of angle welded on the rod and you are tank tough.
 
rustystud

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
cucvrus said:
I tried to buy but got the message instead that the part was discontinued and/or backordered with no ETA.

I knew that 2 weeks ago when someone else posted about them being available. They cried foul because someone had one posted for $61. delivered to the front door. Always have guys like that. Steal parts and don't pay for them. Always crying. I am still in the process with a member to get some made up. I have one on 2 trucks now and it sure did not hurt anything. My Terminus M1009 with the new cross member and brace/strut/torque rod in place passed the test after wheeling all weekend. I went over high center a few times and seen my blue paint on the rocks and mud. Very reassuring. Rusty Stud. You missed out. The past weekend was a Red Neck Mecca. Have a great day. Brad I will keep my eyes open for a brace/strut/torque rod for your NP208. Looks fairly easy to make one. 2 pieces of flat bar and some 5/8" round stock. Weld grind make pretty and paint. A piece of angle welded on the rod and you are tank tough.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you had a great time ! I really wish I could have been there !
I even missed out on the rally out here in Winlock ! This is the third straight year now I've tried to get down there but couldn't !!!
 
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