Bravojmc
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and the winner gets a $1000 gift card to.....?we have a winner!
I like the vomitron answer though too. And, no jeffy777, not trying to make you look bad.
Bulldogger
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
and the winner gets a $1000 gift card to.....?we have a winner!
I like the vomitron answer though too. And, no jeffy777, not trying to make you look bad.
Bulldogger
I just paid $15 for a new one from Eric's Military Surplus with new lanyard cord and everything. Only problem is it slid on so nice and perfectly that I can't get it off to save my life. I apparently should have lubricated it and somehow added on a pull handle (the lanyard cord tabs would easily bend and snap).We have a winner!
I like the Vomitron answer though too. And, no Jeffy777, not trying to make you look bad.
Bulldogger
We have a winner!
I like the Vomitron answer though too. And, no Jeffy777, not trying to make you look bad.
Bulldogger
What is this pulsetech distribution system you speak of?productive day on the hmmwv front: (2) ammo cans installed for storage and one houses my switch center and battery montitor. Going to put a lock on the passenger side one like the drivers side. Installed the pulsetech distribution system as well. so much to do and not enough vacation days...
I have had a converter sitting around for a while not happy with my thoughts on where to mount it. I have a first aid kit in this spot at the moment, but it can be relocated. This gives me some ideas. Thanks!I fabbed a bracket today to hold my 24 V to 12 V converter and a 12 V fuse panel and 24v fuse panel. View attachment 683825
It is a power-distribution fuse box. It includes self-resetting (12V) and manually-resettable (24V) circuit breakers that you can shuffle around, depending on your application. It's a very simple system that just have a positive lead that goes to the series of batteries (24V) and a positive lead that goes to a single battery (12V) with the same reference point (ground), so to prevent a charge imbalance if using 12V accessories, it's essential to install either a battery balancer or a 12V charging lead from a dual-voltage alternator. The convenient part about this box is it's water-tight and it offers numbered leads for all of the circuits it provides, and there are conical quick-connectors to allow you to quickly create a water-resistant connection without permanent splices.What is this pulsetech distribution system you speak of?
Is it basically a fuse box with leads, or is there more to it in a basic, box only configuration?
I see several on fleaBay for cheap, and wondering if I should get one since I need to figure out my 12V and 24V distribution system anyway for USB charger, dome light, radio and off road light bar.
It looks like its part of a whole charging system, but when utilizing only the box, is it still worth it? I can't drop $520 bucks right now for fancy solar panel kit which this pulsetech distribution system seems to be a part of.
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I did not install one. Another member had mentioned having one installed and expressed good results. I'm sorry, but I don't recall what thread that discussion was in. Instead, I have my 200A dual-voltage alternator with +14V lead installed to provide a balancing charge to the rear battery. That should keep the batteries in close balance, albeit somewhat imperfectly.Wirefox, did you install a battery balancer? If so...recommendation? thanks for replying to the question, you know a boatload more about the unit than I do.
A few months back, for giggles, I called pulsetech to see if I could buy the solar panel (or its modern equivalent). That was an interesting conversation...short answer was "no" and the long answer was "no".
I found TWO of the 28V solar panels on fleabay for under $50 each in the past year. $35 plus about $6 priority S&H for the first, IIRC. One for MEP-802A genset, other for this HMMWV. It's the same panel. Has desulfating/pulse unit with the kit.A few months back, for giggles, I called pulsetech to see if I could buy the solar panel (or its modern equivalent). That was an interesting conversation...short answer was "no" and the long answer was "no".
I used a c4isr box I got from a member here http://www.uec-electronics.com/?s=c4isr it works quite well. I built a stereo box and in the box is a 24v to 12v step down which powers the radio speakers and charger on one switch. Most off road led lights have a operating range between 10v to 32v so my front and rear leds are wired to the c4isr box with no converter and do just fine. I also got a military 24v dome light but since it gets ground from whatever its bolted to I ran a fused wire directly from the light to the positive on the battery.I had this set up for quite awhile now and it works great. Only draw back is now I have a bunch of unused switches to add more things i dont need. View attachment 683954What is this pulsetech distribution system you speak of?
Is it basically a fuse box with leads, or is there more to it in a basic, box only configuration?
I see several on fleaBay for cheap, and wondering if I should get one since I need to figure out my 12V and 24V distribution system anyway for USB charger, dome light, radio and off road light bar.
It looks like its part of a whole charging system, but when utilizing only the box, is it still worth it? I can't drop $520 bucks right now for fancy solar panel kit which this pulsetech distribution system seems to be a part of.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
As an alternate, you could mop the WHOLE garage floor with the fluid, so it all looks uniform and like it was planned.Even though I went through the steps one by one to bleed the system, I got ahead of myself and turned the wheels lock to lock while up on the jack stands - WITH THE CAP OFF - and heard this wet gurgling/splashing sound over the engine noise. Did some more mop-up and started over again so I actually replaced the fluid twice. Now that I made clean spots on the garage floor, I may need to steam-clean the whole thing.
As an alternate, you could mop the WHOLE garage floor with the fluid, so it all looks uniform and like it was planned.You know. Just an idea.
I actually had to resize and print mine twice, so third time was the charm, but the price of all three attempts is on the order of $0.50 total. Similar to your situation Wire Fox, the second one almost fit, but I knew I'd never get it back off if I pushed it on hard. Mine has no lanyard, but nothing prevents me from putting one on. The kicker for me is that I got it as fast as I could print it, after less than 15m design time. Even Amazon can't beat that. Another 800 $0.50 events like that and the printer will have paid for itself! (I kid, I've actually sold quite a few small items I've designed and printed, like keychains of a 3D version of my company logo I whipped up. I've another verbal contract for 100 keychains, and if another few design ideas I have been fiddling with works the printer will probably pay for itself by year's end. It'll never be a substitute for my 9-5 and medical benefits, but it's fun.)I just paid $15 for a new one from Eric's Military Surplus with new lanyard cord and everything. Only problem is it slid on so nice and perfectly that I can't get it off to save my life. I apparently should have lubricated it and somehow added on a pull handle (the lanyard cord tabs would easily bend and snap).
Definitely wish I had one of those. I had access to one in my high school introductory engineering classes, but all of its parts it produced were too brittle to consider using for anything other than a visual model or test-fitting a component for size only. As for the cap I bought, it went on easy. I was very surprised that it wouldn't come off. I think it made and air tight seal, because I heard a rush of air at the last moment and of course now it won't go anywhere. Not too worried about it right now, but I'll figure out a good fix shortly to prevent it from stopping me from a jump start or connecting my inverter when I need it.I actually had to resize and print mine twice, so third time was the charm, but the price of all three attempts is on the order of $0.50 total. Similar to your situation Wire Fox, the second one almost fit, but I knew I'd never get it back off if I pushed it on hard. Mine has no lanyard, but nothing prevents me from putting one on. The kicker for me is that I got it as fast as I could print it, after less than 15m design time. Even Amazon can't beat that. Another 800 $0.50 events like that and the printer will have paid for itself! (I kid, I've actually sold quite a few small items I've designed and printed, like keychains of a 3D version of my company logo I whipped up. I've another verbal contract for 100 keychains, and if another few design ideas I have been fiddling with works the printer will probably pay for itself by year's end. It'll never be a substitute for my 9-5 and medical benefits, but it's fun.)
Bulldogger
I did, actually. It was 28V with moderate sun, open circuit. It's probably 32-36V under full sun, open circuit. (voltage will display lower when a battery load is attached)Wirefox, did you measure Vout of the panel? Im wondering if its actually a 12v one.
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