Spectra CU850 radiator is a three core, not four :(

[glaser06]

I would get one at the store. The past record I had with shipping radiators is poor. I used my 20% of coupons on parts for a few other projects I am currently working on. The Yeti tumbler is a retail $40. item. Any way is good. Not a huge fan of re-core price when new is lifetime warranted and less expensive.

It's the same radiator. Can return to store if any damage from shipping.

Is this an exact stock replacement?


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[cucvrus]

Is this an exact stock replacement?

Yes it is an exact replacement. I have not attempted an installation yet. But first look was very favorable. It looks well made and has all the holes and fittings in the right place. I will report back on my installation efforts with pictures. I still recommend the new Prothane insulators/isolators. At less then $20. Amazon at your door it is well worth it. Throw the OEM rubber ones in the fire.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

I've not driven the truck enough to know if it would overheat.......radiator was not leaking.....but when I pulled the hoses I could see all kinds of gunk on the tubes.......some of it flaked off, some of it looks like goo that washes off if you get pressure enough on it.....but bottom line, if I have it in South Texas for deer hunting and its 105 F in bow season, I need to be confident truck will not overheat.

If you can take it to a rad shop and have the core tubes rodded/cleaned out. Much cheeper. Were you overheating?

 

[glaser06]

I've not driven the truck enough to know if it would overheat.......radiator was not leaking.....but when I pulled the hoses I could see all kinds of gunk on the tubes.......some of it flaked off, some of it looks like goo that washes off if you get pressure enough on it.....but bottom line, if I have it in South Texas for deer hunting and its 105 F in bow season, I need to be confident truck will not overheat.

Where do ya bow hunt? My 1028 has been all over and around the King Ranch down south of Corpus.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

I'm northwest of Laredo along the river......I don't bow hunt, but I'm down there scouting then for rifle season.....I bought my M1028 a couple months back thinking it would be a great rig for my 2 man high rack in back.

Where do ya bow hunt? My 1028 has been all over and around the King Ranch down south of Corpus.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

I ordered Spectra Premium B850 through Autozone as well, and argued for a discount since RockAuto had same radiator for $40 less.....got a 10% discount at Autozone so out the door with tax and 16 pack of assorted O-rings was $320.....can't beat a lifetime warranty and in person resolution of any shipping/packaging issues.....will pick it up this evening or tomorrow morning......ordered the prothane isolators as well (eBay) since when I pulled one away from the back side of the upper mount bracket it basically fell apart......thanks for all the good tips!

I get a commercial discount and that was with the tax. If I do the math correctly it comes out to 10% on the price plus 6% state tax. So average about 4% off list. Make any sense? it works for me. And this month a free Yeti 20 OZ tumbler with purchase. I have a Yeti ice chest. Expensive but worth it.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

Yes it appears to be a direct replacement, maybe 1/2" shorter than the OEM radiator.......last photo shows why I'm replacing the radiator. Flushed the heater core and engine block today, will begin re-assembly when the prothane isolators arrive.

Is this an exact stock replacement?

Yes it is an exact replacement. I have not attempted an installation yet. But first look was very favorable. It looks well made and has all the holes and fittings in the right place. I will report back on my installation efforts with pictures. I still recommend the new Prothane insulators/isolators. At less then $20. Amazon at your door it is well worth it. Throw the OEM rubber ones in the fire.

 

[glaser06]

View attachment 685460View attachment 685459View attachment 685461

Yes it appears to be a direct replacement, maybe 1/2" shorter than the OEM radiator.......last photo shows why I'm replacing the radiator. Flushed the heater core and engine block today, will begin re-assembly when the prothane isolators arrive.

Thank you! That's exactly what I wanted to see. Ordering mine Monday.

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[scottladdy]

View attachment 685460View attachment 685459View attachment 685461

Yes it appears to be a direct replacement, maybe 1/2" shorter than the OEM radiator.......last photo shows why I'm replacing the radiator. Flushed the heater core and engine block today, will begin re-assembly when the prothane isolators arrive.

That looks identical to the APDI/PRO unit I picked up from Rackauto for about $150. Yes, the warranty is a lot shorter but I can buy more than two for that price

 

[glaser06]

Got my radiator in today. In fairly good shape, too. Question to the guys who have used aluminum radiators before, I have a slight bend in the radiator edge. I don't think it'll be an issue, what do you guys think?

This is my first stock replacement aluminum/plastic radiator install. I've done a few aftermarket performance aluminum ones and plenty of brass/copper. I'm of the mind to just roll with this and straighten if needed. The last two bends are at a seam.

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[scottladdy]

Got my radiator in today. In fairly good shape, too. Question to the guys who have used aluminum radiators before, I have a slight bend in the radiator edge. I don't think it'll be an issue, what do you guys think?

This is my first stock replacement aluminum/plastic radiator install. I've done a few aftermarket performance aluminum ones and plenty of brass/copper. I'm of the mind to just roll with this and straighten if needed. The last two bends are at a seam.

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If memory serves, that rail does not join to a tube. It joins to fins. If so, I would probably run it. However, this is based on memory and three internet images.

See any signs of the the AL cracking? Tube or tank damage? Then I would be concerned. Not even sure I would try to straighten it as those rails aren't used to support the radiator and aren't really visible.

 

[cucvrus]

Got my radiator in today. In fairly good shape, too. Question to the guys who have used aluminum radiators before, I have a slight bend in the radiator edge. I don't think it'll be an issue, what do you guys think?

This is my first stock replacement aluminum/plastic radiator install. I've done a few aftermarket performance aluminum ones and plenty of brass/copper. I'm of the mind to just roll with this and straighten if needed. The last two bends are at a seam.

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I see nothing wrong with that. They appear to be done while being assembled. Either way it will have no effect on the radiator at all. And once the "Caution Fan" cover is on you will never see it. good Luck. I think you made a great purchase. I have several and am very happy with them. I also have the copper brass and both serve equally as well. I do like the weight savings on the plastic/aluminum models.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

Mine had a couple "flexes" in those top and bottom runners as well.....don't think any big deal.

Got my radiator in today. In fairly good shape, too. Question to the guys who have used aluminum radiators before, I have a slight bend in the radiator edge. I don't think it'll be an issue, what do you guys think?

This is my first stock replacement aluminum/plastic radiator install. I've done a few aftermarket performance aluminum ones and plenty of brass/copper. I'm of the mind to just roll with this and straighten if needed. The last two bends are at a seam.

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[BradL84D30M1008]

Re-installed the new radiator today but had two issues:

1) For the life of me could not get the lower transmission cooler line to thread back in - nothing appears cross threaded on the transmission cooler line nut or the radiator fitting, but can not get the cooler line nut to thread back in.....upper cooler line goes in fine, oil cooler lines go back in fine.....any suggestions?

2) Radiator will slide back and forth a bit in the upper prothane 1712-BL urethane isolators, they appear to be just a bit (1/4") wider than the radiator ridges at the top, so probably not need not as wide prothane isolators.

Just a heads up for others doing the same.

 

[cucvrus]

I will be doing the same in a few days. i know flare nuts can be difficult at times. Best deal is to start everything by hand / finger tight. They should be clean and lubed well enough that they spin freely on the steel line. That helps a great deal. Not sure what problem you are encountering with the mounts. Maybe you can tweak / bend them down a bit to add a tighter bite on the core. That has worked for me. The OEM radiators fit tight and could have the 2 upper brackets pushed/bent up a bit. Worth a try. I would go get a new flare nut plain and try it in the fitting hole. It is easy enough to do. Good Luck. Report back don't let us hanging.

 

[scottladdy]

Try to see if the tubing is off angle.

Over the years I have found that if the tubing is not square to the fitting the nut will be difficult to thread in. The angles are off just enough to prevent the threads from catching. Try inserting the tubing fully into the fitting before trying to start the nut. This should help you see any misalignment and will make it easier to flex the tubing close enough to get the nut started.

Also, best is to use a flare nut wrench for the final tightening. Flare nuts are soft and easily rounded off. A flare nut wrench provides a significantly greater purchase on the nut spreading the forces and greatly reduces the chances of rounding off the nut. Same goes for loosening.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

Thanks for the tips.....think you're right that tubing is bent just enough off center that I can't get it to line up correctly and get the flare nut to thread in....really tough when it's the bottom line and you can't see it!

Bought some flare nuts from Autozone yesterday and verified that threads are fine in the radiator fitting, and will buy the matching female nut today to verify/clean up threads on the OEM flare nut, and then try to re-assemble.

Try to see if the tubing is off angle.

Over the years I have found that if the tubing is not square to the fitting the nut will be difficult to thread in. The angles are off just enough to prevent the threads from catching. Try inserting the tubing fully into the fitting before trying to start the nut. This should help you see any misalignment and will make it easier to flex the tubing close enough to get the nut started.

Also, best is to use a flare nut wrench for the final tightening. Flare nuts are soft and easily rounded off. A flare nut wrench provides a significantly great purchase on the nut spreading the forces and greatly reduces the chances of rounding off the nut. Sam goes for loosening.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Get a thread to barb adapter, some rubber transmission line, and get rid of those flare nuts. Much easier, and yes, it will hold the pressure just fine. The internal pressure of an automatic trans can get pretty high, but what runs to the cooler is piddly.

 

[cucvrus]

Don't do it man. I followed a few of them ATF red blood trails. A few times in snow and several times in mud. In wet mud it makes pretty rainbows. But at the end every time was a vehicle with a mess underneath a dry transmission and no parts or enough fluid to be had. It bleeds out with out you knowing. Invest do the work and rest knowing it was done right the first time. It is easy and satisfying knowing you done it the right way. In a pinch yes. but not the permanent fix. You did say you wanted to go hunting in nowhere land. think about it. Take the fitting and hose as back up but not as primary. IMHO. Do as you wish. If you run them hard build them harder. Have a great day.

 

[scottladdy]

View attachment 686948View attachment 686949Don't do it man. I followed a few of them ATF red blood trails. A few times in snow and several times in mud. In wet mud it makes pretty rainbows. But at the end every time was a vehicle with a mess underneath a dry transmission and no parts or enough fluid to be had. It bleeds out with out you knowing. Invest do the work and rest knowing it was done right the first time. It is easy and satisfying knowing you done it the right way. In a pinch yes. but not the permanent fix. You did say you wanted to go hunting in nowhere land. think about it. Take the fitting and hose as back up but not as primary. IMHO. Do as you wish. If you run them hard build them harder. Have a great day.

100% agree with you Rick. The factory line routing is pretty exposed underneath the trucks. For anyone planning on running anywhere where the bottom could scrape I would take the time to reroute.