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Juan's M998 HMMWV

juanprado

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Pulse Tech Distribution System

I have one of these in my m923 battery box and very happy with it.

This is a sealed weather tight fuse box with 12v & 24v separate taps,storage for extra circuit breakers, and a battery pulse desulfating board. An external battery test panel and a large solar panel can also be used with it. Originally designed for hmmwv and fits in the battery box perfectly in place of the first aid kit. I just moved mine under the commander's seat into the base.

I bought off epay reasonable and got the one with the bag of hardware, 12 & 24v circuit breakers, & tube of dielectric grease. 24V circuit breakers are easy to id as they are reset buttons and the color of the button is the amperage.

On the hunt for the solar panel but rarely see those listed separately.

4 bolts, tap the 2 batteries, and negative terminal. Easy and gives If I remember 6 fused 24v taps and 4 12v taps. I installed a radio grommet in the side of the battery box to run the cables. I already had a grommet for the radios so I used that to run the battery tester cable up to mount horizontal on my Radio tray under a vic3 crew box. The inside of the fuse box has a red flashing led to let you know the battery desulfating board is working. It pulses with or without the solar panel.

Cool stuff that cost uncle a few dimes.
http://www.pulsetech.net/PCMDS-PulseTech-Pulse-Charge-Monitor-Distribution-System-7377.aspx
 

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juanprado

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Speaker HID Xenon hand spotlight

Picked up this crazy bright HID xenon handheld spot light made by Speaker. Seriously bright, does not get hot, & uses 10 amps at start up for a few seconds but then only 2 amp draw when lite. Same light on a bracket is used on newer mraps.

I picked up the corresponding 3 wire amphenol plug ms3470w8-33s for it with a shell, cap and back nut plate. A is 24+, B is 24-, and c is unused.

Had a scrap bracket that I used to mount it on the corner of my radio tray. Used a Chinese gm copy connector to disconnect the 2 wires in case I pull the dog house cover off. Ran the wires down the existing radio grommet to the the pulse distribution box.

I store the light on the bottom radio tray behind the vic3 vertical plate.
 

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juanprado

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Kaboom with mildrew remover

Here in the tropics, mold and algae grow on carc like it is a bed of fertilizer.

My soft doors were literally black , along with my top. Hood was also pretty nasty. Pressure washed truck to remove algae but used the kaboom no drip foam straight. Let it sit and it works it magic. The mold and mildew disappear and run off. No scrubbing. Hood took 2 applications but cleaned up nicely due to the fiberglass. Amazing stuff. Never have gotten any of my trailers or 5 ton cleaner than using this stuff. Sold at Walmart.

Also tried the kaboom with oxy clean. No where as good as the no drip foam. 2 bottles did my hood, 2 soft doors and soft top.

You can look back at some of my previous pictures and can see the difference. She will be nice and clean for the New Orleans Air Show La SS rally next week.

Doug,

Got the 15 color camo down to 2 color. :) We shall see how long it lasts in the land of 100% humidity and rain.
 

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juanprado

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My M998's service history

Thanks to Bikeman and his vin info thread, I now know some of the history of my Truck:


a. Serial Number (VIN number) ------112164
b. Registration Number -----NG3UN5
c. NSN without dashes -----19207-8750057
d. Where you bought it------Fort Polk, La
e. Bumper numbers----- 4ESC 211RSG / 73CSSB HQ-55 (best I can tell from under spray paint)
f. Type of vehicle/item. M998


NSN: 2320-01-107-7155 Not sure what you put there... it's one digit short of an NSN, and not immediately recognizable as an NSN either.

Last assigned to HHC, 373rd Support Battalion (WTKGAA), Beaumont Texas.

So, your bumper numbers as shown are 4th Expeditionary Support Command, 211th Regional Support Group (A collection of NG and/or USAR units) 373rd Combat Service Support Battalion, HQ-55 (Plans section).

YOM: 1991
Last Mileage 22014

http://www.usar.army.mil/Commands/Operational/79thSSC/4ESC.aspx
 
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Does the PDB have a 12V converter inside in addition to the pulse feature?

Also what are the types of connectors for the accessory voltage out wiring? Is that just some standard automotive bullet connector?

It looks like you have the PTT box, have you opened the box to reverse engineer it?

I bet you could map the 4 solar panel connector inputs to the outputs to the PDB on the PTT box.

Then we just need to know what the output specs are on the solar panel and it becomes a wiring things up issue once some fleabay panels are in hand.
 

juanprado

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When I installed it on my 5 ton, I called Pulse Tech tech hotline and got some help but vague answers on some specifics. The board that pulsates has some features he could not discuss since they were proprietary and military specific.

By design it taps both batteries to get the 12v and 24v. I always heard that by doing this; it creates an inbalance but there must be something to their gizmo's circuitry is my guess. No inverter is my guess but I have not open the unit up underneath the fuse panel as there is a full circuit board. It was designed originally for the hmmwv and the instructions are geared to this installation before the widespread dual voltage Niehoff alt.

I always wandered what the 12 v output on the dual voltage alternator was used for specifiaclly? Maybe you can hook up the pulse box directly to the niehoff 12v for the 12v leg but I have no knowledge if this would work as just I stayed at Holiday Inn Expres swag?

The tap wires are cool cone shaped all weather connectors with the screw cap. Just strip the wire, insert, and tighten the nut. With the cone shape it seals all gauges of wire.

The solar panel connector is a 3 pin round male plug that looks very similar to the standard music microphone plug with the release tab. Heck it might be the same but I have never tried one.
 
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3jacks

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I called Pulsetech to see if they would suggest an alternate panel to use with the 735X650 and literally the guy said nothing...his answer "nope" and wouldn't suggest anything or answer questions. I have this unit (no panel). If I find a suitable replacement, will post it here.
 

juanprado

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Blind spot mirror

I had done something similar to my 5 ton and liked the increased visibility. I also have a 2 full size radio shelves and gear which obstructs the right side view a little. I am no real fan of looking through the windshield to see the right rear view mirror.

Sportman's guide had these mrap front fender mirrors with arm on clearance for $4.50 and I ordered other items to get the free shipping.

https://www.sportsmansguide.com/pro...ight-side-truck-rearview-mirror-new?a=2049464

I mounted the head with longer screws ( stainless pan head 1/4 1- 1/2 long ) on the brush guard. Does not interfere on opening the brush guard and tan painted carc.

Perfect visibility and absolutely no blind spot now for $6
 

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juanprado

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Underhood jack Storge Box

Installed an under the hood passenger jack box with lid. This is for the later model black jack not the original scissors style. Easy 3 bolt install. Lower bolt on tower felt like it stripped when installing bolt by hand so I changed to a longer bolt with a washer and lock nut on inside.

I think I found that there are 2 designs. Early model bracket with clasps for the lid latches and lid with clasps mounted further away. Later model has no clasps but uses the lip of the bracket for the latch to hook onto but that lid has the latches mounted closer to the end. I ended up with 2 mismatched parts, so I ground off the rivets and reinstalled latch closer to edge on molded casting circles by drilling them out 3/16 and using #10 machine screws as I did not have any 3/16 rivets.
 

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Bravojmc

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Installed an under the hood passenger jack box with lid. This is for the later model black jack not the original scissors style. Easy 3 bolt install. Lower bolt on tower felt like it stripped when installing bolt by hand so I changed to a longer bolt with a washer and lock nut on inside.

I think I found that there are 2 designs. Early model bracket with clasps for the lid latches and lid with clasps mounted further away. Later model has no clasps but uses the lip of the bracket for the latch to hook onto but that lid has the latches mounted closer to the end. I ended up with 2 mismatched parts, so I ground off the rivets and reinstalled latch closer to edge on molded casting circles by drilling them out 3/16 and using #10 machine screws as I did not have any 3/16 rivets.
Good work!
 
Does the PDB have a 12V converter inside in addition to the pulse feature?

Also what are the types of connectors for the accessory voltage out wiring? Is that just some standard automotive bullet connector?

It looks like you have the PTT box, have you opened the box to reverse engineer it?

I bet you could map the 4 solar panel connector inputs to the outputs to the PDB on the PTT box.

Then we just need to know what the output specs are on the solar panel and it becomes a wiring things up issue once some fleabay panels are in hand.
No, there is no 12v convertor inside the box. The two main leads going into the box are marked 24v input and 12v input. It is designed for use with the Hmmwv dual amp Alternator. Hope this helps.
 

juanprado

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Where'd you get that? I've been looking, though not hard. Had intended to make one, but am losing enthusiasm for it.
BDGR
I got the base from 86humv. There is one on epay but not complete as it is missing some of the hold down hardware. The lid came from Eastern only because I had some other items on order but they are all over epay.
 

juanprado

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storage box under seat straps

I noticed in the tm that some models have straps installed for gizmos inside the rear seat storage boxes. :idea: Peeked at mine and saw that I have holes already there and the correct floor mats have slits in them for the straps. Passenger side has holes for 2 straps and driver's side has for one strap.

Got some from Amtak on epay that already came with footman loops and screws. They were the older style 2 piece but I like these as easier to strap stuff than the cam action with hook. I did use one of those also.

Simple to do and now hopefully some of my "junk" is tied down and will not rattle..... :shock:

Easy and relatively cheap to do with the cool deal from amtak.
 

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riderdan

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Simple to do and now hopefully some of my "junk" is tied down and will not rattle..... :shock:
That's cool. I need to look into those. However, how will you tell if the "junk" isn't rattling? Mine rattles so much everywhere else (rear seats, seat belts, tailgate) I don't think I could tell the difference :D
 

juanprado

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radio Deck

I had been accumulating sincgar tidbits since I got my 5 ton and was thinking of displaying one there.

Now the hmmwv bug got me and I have 2 radio mounts MT-6352/VRC so I can have the best of both worlds and switch to the neglected 5 ton my set up when ever it is displayed.

I had already installed the dual full size trays earlier. The top shelf has the holes pre-drilled for the mt-6352 mount that goes on the left top side. I picked up a dual radio mount adapter AM-7239E/VRC. It slides into the mt-6352/vrc and had the built in mount for the AM7238 amp on the left. Thanks to jeepsinker for the amp. I did have have to track down a bracket and bell crank handle for the front that was missing for the am-7239 from flight source.

I never expected to get a radio(s) as way out of my price range. I did manage to pick up a simulator that was almost perfect fit and "look". It is a real simulator hooked up to a computer with some limited functionality in some of the switches to train operators. It has an Ethernet and serial ports along with a power input. Got it reasonable on epay but I was never able to find another. It is the bottom radio and slightly longer than a real one but fits in the slot.

The top radio was another simulator but just the front panel mounted in a large sheet metal rack panel. It just had a serial port wired to some of the switches. Zev- Goldneagle made me a tin metal box to attach the panel to make a "fake" radio. This panel is also taller than the original (also taller than the bottom radio) so it went on the top. Some of the knobs looked out of place so I bought some sincgars knobs off epay to dress it up. Same size shafts so easy to switch out. These panels come up on epay regular now from a surplus store in Fl.

I wanted to model an earlier sincgars radio RT-1439 set up that did not have crypto and used either a KY57 or KY99 encryption. Thanks to Greg 86humv I was able to pick up 2 of the later model ky99's and a sincgars appropriate MT-6429 mount with some cables. One KY99 did not have a cover so I made one from thin sheet metal and attached it with the appropriate #4-40 machine screws. It is on the bottom and passes the eye test. :) I picked up the other mount and a MX-18290 key loader device from ohiohmmwv. The Mt-6429 fits perfect on the right side of the full size shelf and has the holes pre-drilled also. It is made to double stack and has the holes on bottom and capture nuts on top.

I also have on the left a remote control sincgars Microphone handset C-123493/U. The right side handset is a H-250 handset plugged into the front ls-671 sincgars speaker.

On the far right side is a fully functioning PLGR AN/PSN-11 gps unit. I think this is one of the later models since it is green and what I could tell on researching it. It is mounted on the standard plastic mount on a bar/plate that bolts to the top holes of the top full size tray as those holes are not used in the dual full size shelves. Picked up from Beltfed on epay. The shelf mounts to the dash with the middle set of holes on the back of shelf. Thanks to steinmaster for the antenna, power cable, and some of the accessories. The hockey puck antenna is mounted to my fording intake with a simple L bracket and the cable is thin and easy to route and hide. I am using the battery adapter at the moment put plan on hard wiring it. The locking bracket for a padlock came from BBB surplus.

On the vertical tray is the pulse distribution battery test panel and a VIC-3 master control station CD-82/VRC. I did not have room to mount the CD-82 and the dual station crew station together. I was able to get them both on the plate but all the cables would not fit, so it went on the bottom shelf.

I will do a separate write up on the vic 3 as I "think" it is a functioning set up and need to install the rest of it and power it up.

Lots of hunting down cables on epay and I tried to wire everything correctly but I am in no way a sincgars expert or have first hand operational experience.

I just wanted a cool looking original display which I think looks real and OE.[thumbzup]
 

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FKAM

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Juan, Looks good.

I've been trying to find ky's and key loader for my setup. You give me hope that they can be found.
 

juanprado

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Juan, Looks good.

I've been trying to find ky's and key loader for my setup. You give me hope that they can be found.
Well from someone in the know, I appreciate any tips on "correctness" for my set up?

I can help with your needs. I will send you a pm later tonight.
 
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