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MEP-003 recovery and adventure

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,530
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113
Location
Efland, NC
Which needle is dead? The frequency meter or the load meter?

Does the frequency meter work? If so you need to get it up to 60hz ASAP. Never idle them. Idling these will kill the VR.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
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Location
Jackson ms
I believe the frequency meter is the one that is dead. That pic was taken at approximately 3/4 throttle. I have read about the issue created by idling them. It did hurt me to run it up to 3/4 throttle right at startup though.


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DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,530
2,055
113
Location
Efland, NC
Its usually not the meter that has failed on those, its the transducer. I do believe there is a test procedure in the TM. I'll have to look later when I'm back at the apartment.

Do you have a frequency meter function on a voltage meter?
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,671
23,835
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Dock Rocker,

I hate to bring this up, but if you open the -24 manual, you would find a passage that explains how to check/test the freq meter and transducer. It's not hard. If some old fart like me can do it, I know you can too.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
I do have the the manuals but they are just not with me. I had to do a little work today so I am without.

Even with the manuals I would have been a bit lost. I at least know what to call the problem now!



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jamawieb

Well-known member
1,437
556
113
Location
Ripley/TN
Transducer. Easier and cheaper to just buy a kill-a-watt meter and use it. The transducers are junk and you can only buy used ones, that won't last long either.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
Transducer. Easier and cheaper to just buy a kill-a-watt meter and use it. The transducers are junk and you can only buy used ones, that won't last long either.
That's good info to have. You don't happen to have a link to one that's been used on one of these units do you?


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RGJ58

New member
19
1
0
Location
Mobile AL
I had the same issue your did so I removed the transducer plus the old gauge and installed one of these analog hertz meters. Yokogawa 254350AJ-AJ9 is the part number and manufacturer it is a direct drop in for the original hole in the panel. Note that this gauge requires AC current to be wired directly to it. What I did is extend the AC input wires from the now removed transducer and wired them to the gauge and it works great! I will post a picture tomorrow if I get time.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
I had the same issue your did so I removed the transducer plus the old gauge and installed one of these analog hertz meters. Yokogawa 254350AJ-AJ9 is the part number and manufacturer it is a direct drop in for the original hole in the panel. Note that this gauge requires AC current to be wired directly to it. What I did is extend the AC input wires from the now removed transducer and wired them to the gauge and it works great! I will post a picture tomorrow if I get time.
That would ge awesome if you could post a few pictures. The plug in meter is a good patch but not a long term solution.


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Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
Well CSMDavis came through for me! He scrounged me up a nice serviceable M116 with the bows.

We trial for it yesterday to see what needed to be done. Got it set and bolted up just in time for the rainstorm!

Apparently the covers for the M116 are made of unobtanium so I will be looking to source something that will work.

Going to pull it apart and blast it and hit it with some new paint as soon as I get some time.





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RGJ58

New member
19
1
0
Location
Mobile AL
20170805_210830.jpg

20170805_210841.jpg

Here are two quick pictures I took tonight to show you how the after market Yokogawa 254350AJ-AJ9 gauge looks in the panel. Tomorrow I will open the control box and show you how it is wired, its very simple.
 

Kahles56

Member
38
54
18
Location
So Pines, N.C.
Earlier ,around page 1,2,3 you posted some rust in your air-filter.
If you look on the outside of your air filter holder , under the top cap on the fuel filter side of the exterior air filter you will notice a slide that is used to reroute warm air in cold environments.
That push button sleeve is the water entrance culprit that causes the rust inside the air- filter.
I do not know of a fix except to seal the device in moderate climates. If you live in a cold climate you might need the warm air bypass.
Others on site will know better as I am from NC- very mild climate in the winter except when we get Ice storms.

Ken.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,671
23,835
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
I live in a climate that can at times get very cold. I never once used the heater air bypass. Maybe we can hear from someone who lives in Alaska.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
Well some progress is being made. Getting everything trial fit and ready to go. It will eventually get blown apart and sprayed but as long as there are hurricanes in the gulf the paint is going to have to wait.






I used a 50 / 30 amp RV box with its own set of breakers. I am boing to fit the power disconnect at the house with a 50 amp receptacle. I am still not keen on the base the box is sitting on but I need something to be able to drop the wire out the bottom. It also has to be sturdy enough to take getting pulled down the road.






I picked up a couple of MRAP tool boxes a few years ago. I finally found a good use for one of them.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
Well I am FINALLY getting around to getting everything ready to make the connections to the disconnect at the house.

We bumped into one issue as we were re-checking everything.

The voltage was rock solid on both meters at 240. The issue is with the hz. On the kil a watt meter and on my cheap-o harbor freight multi meter it was reading almost exactly at 60hz. The meter on the unit is dead. That’s my next fix. The meter that the electrician had showed the hz bouncing around. It bounced to the exact same reading every time but it was not locked at 60hz like I think it should be.

I don’t know if his meter was just more sensitive than the other two or if something wacky is going on.

I can’t post a video from Tapatalk so here is a side by side of the meters on a Dropbox link.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d9qx22pjlyjart3/2017-12-30 15.34.09.mov?dl=0


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