1963 M37 - Pre-start checklist

[ez8]

I bought this 1963 M37 a few weeks ago and I'm looking forward to getting it running over the next couple of weeks (famous last words!). The previous owner bought it from Vintage Power Wagons of Fairfield Iowa back in 1994 and parked it about a decade ago as the area around his farmhouse slowly got built up the creeping sprawl of the Chicago suburbs. That being said, he wanted to get rid of it and I wanted to buy it.

As it has not run in quite some time I'm going through and making a checklist of all the things I need to do before I even attempt to start it. I'm hoping that by doing this preparation I can limit the impact of 10 years of non-movement. I've got the TM 9-8030 ORD 36A-1-411 and I've been leafing through it for key points.

Notes about the truck: It's still on the original 24V system. I plan to leave the body, etc., the way it is. I love the patina it has.

Checklist (in no particular order)

1. Engine
   1. Change Oil
      1. What oil to use?
   2. Change oil filter
2. Brakes
   1. Rebuild Master and wheel cylinders
   2. Replace all brake lines
   3. Replace brake shoes
   4. Bleed system with DOT 5 fluid
3. Fuel
   1. Refurbish fuel tank
      1. Send to VPW for RENU warranty service
      2. New fuel sender
      3. Rebuild fuel pickup
         1. Fuel hose + fuel filter
   2. Replace all fuel lines
   3. Rebuild fuel pump
   4. Replace in-line fuel filters (clear variety)
   5. Clean/Rebuild carburetor
4. Electrical
   1. New batteries (bought 7/4/2017)
   2. Replace spark plugs
5. Cooling
   1. Replace anti-freeze (any special considerations?)
6. Transmission / Transfer Case
   1. Fill oil (GL-4?)
7. Differentials
   1. Lube, 90WT Hypoid oil

Here's a picture of the brute:

Thanks for your help - I appreciate any and all advice I can get.

edit: added number 6/7 to the checklist

 

[NDT]

Welcome and great rescue! I would pour plenty of mystery oil into all the cylinders and let things soak before attempting to run the engine. Valves can tend to stick open. When you do your oil change, stick your pinky in the pan and see if you have deep sludge, if so I would pull the pan and clean it out. The rest of your list looks fine. Start saving for a new electrical harness, the 1950's trucks all need one, not sure about your B1.

 

[Storm 51]

Change all the lubricant in the differentials, transfer case and transmission. While you are doing the brakes, check the drums and have them turned or at least cleaned and repack the wheel bearings. Check the steering box and refill. Do NOT tighten the steering until after you have driven it a while; it will feel a little "loose" which is how it should be so it doesn't "bump steer" when off road.

John Bizal has the B1 fuel pick up lines that have the in-tank fuel filter on the end. If you are replacing the fuel lines, this would be a good time to install that upgrade.

When you get the engine running, try to run it in the dark to see if the spark plug wires are giving off any sparks from rotten wires.

Be sure to check the distributor and coil. The website G741 has some very helpful information about the coil and ignition system.

When all that stuff is done, and if you are feeling brave and ambitious, start checking the wiring for brittle and disintegrating wiring and wiring harnesses. Wiring harness replacement is not cheap, but it is a wonderful way to get rid of some very obnoxious and nasty gremlins and goblins.

Good Luck on your project! It is nice to see another truck saved.

 

[Karl kostman]

All of the above is very sage advice Storm 51 has had one of these trucks longer than anybody else I know and he knows of what he speaks! When you get to the point and most of the above has been accomplished and you are actually ready to start the truck I would pull the plug wires or use whatever method you desire to eliminate spark to the engine, then I would use the starter to turn the engine over until you get an oil pressure indication on your gauge. Once you get a good oil pressure indication on your engine I would then reconnect spark to the plugs and start the engine. As soon as it starts you will be wanting to look once again at the oil pressure to make sure that its there and maintaining pressure. After all that you should be goo to go and have some fun!
Karl

 

[ez8]

Thanks everyone for the advice so far.

One question that I've been turning over in my head: Is there a replacement fuel tank that I can drop in with minimal alteration? I talked to the folks at VPW and since the tank has been RENU restored once, it's got a lifetime warranty. However, there is a small hole (1/4") in the bottom that looks like it would need to be welded or soldered shut. I'm not sure how well the patch would hold, especially since it looks like it is cancerous rust. If there's a viable alternative, I'm open to it.

 

[Storm 51]

Supposedly, certain Chevy S-10 pick up tanks will work, and I've heard of another that I can't remember, will also work. However, used tanks are anywhere from about $200 to $350 before you start to repair them, so I would get the warranty claim started on the tank you have. If you have a nice stock truck it is best to keep it that way; they are getting scarcer and scarcer these days. There are plenty of "improved" ones out there if you are looking for one.

If you decide to go with a different tank and want to sell your current one, please let me know. I would definitely be interested in it.

To Karl; Thanks for the kind words! I hope your truck is doing well and providing you with some fun this summer!

 

[just me]

Check the thread in the builder's blog on g741.org. there is some great info on substitute fuel tanks.

 

[M-37Bruce]

Fuel Tank

I had my tank renewed, it had a dime brazed onto a small hole, the guy said if it survived the relining, to leave it in placed, that was 10 years ago. BTW, I did the painless wiring kit, less than $200, nice and clean install too.
Robie's page, G-741.org had some good input on replacement tank, of all things a plastic tank!

 

[NAM VET]

After a six month engine removal, tear down, then three months at a machine shop with virtually all new internals, I put the motor back together with the guidance of the TM's, help on this and other forums, phone calls to M 37 experts, and after hundreds of hours of work, making all new lines, electric fuel pump, painting the removed front sheet metal, lube changes, and putting in an extra mechanical oil pressure gage, and more tasks than I can even write, my son and I this morning turned on the batteries and cranked it, and it fired right up and settled into a smooth even idle, with 50 psi oil pressure hot. No leaks.

I did all of this in my driveway, as the truck would not fit in my garage, and beside, I would not have been able to use my engine hoist inside anyway. I posted much of my thoughts and work over on the M37 registry forum, what issues I had to resolve, where I got help, and tools and solutions that were necessary. You can search my hundreds of posts on that forum under my name, NAM VET.

Welcome, and best of luck and wishes for your own journey.

NV

 

[ez8]

Sounds like you've reached quite a milestone in your rebuild, NAMVET. Congrats!
Before I went on this board I signed up to g741 and remember seeing your build thread there, too. I also appreciate all the pictures you post to your other thread with all the photos from your time in Vietnam.

When I did my Willys MB, I followed the TMs and the thing fired right up on first attempt and hummed right a long like a little sewing machine. It's really a good feeling when everything works out just like it should.

 

[ez8]

Got a lot done this weekend. Completely disassembled the brakes and removed the master cylinder. The cylinders were all complete trash - pitted beyond repair and brake fluid was leaking around the pistons creating a lot of corrosion. No worries, though! Replacement parts are on the way. The shoes and drums are in near perfect condition. No need to turn or replace them. I don't think this vehicle was run very much during it's life after the military. The deeper I get into this vehicle the more impressed I am with how clean it is.


Also looked at the spark plugs. They were very rusty on the outside, but the operating parts were quite clean. A quick trip in my sandblaster cleaned them up pretty good. Checked the gap and back in the hole they go. I'll likely replace them after I get it running, but for testing purposes they'll do. Also added a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the cylinders. I did notice that the tops of the pistons all look VERY clean (from the small bit I can see through the spark plug hole).


When I replace the plugs I just need a regular old Autolite 2243, correct? O'Reilly has them for $7.99 which seems like a steal since most other places want at least $12.00 for them. (edit: O'Reilly does not have them at all. They are not even available to be ordered although their website says otherwise.) However, Looking at the O'Reilly website a couple of possibilities come up:

Autolite 2304
Champion 588

What plug is everyone using in their 24V rigs?

 

[Welder1]

If the engine has been sitting for a very long time then there is a risk that you may have a stuck valve. I would pull the valve cover and spark plugs. I would then lube them and slowly roll over the engine watching each valve to make sure they are free and not stuck. If any resistance is felt stop and see what may be the source. If you can roll over 2 complete revolutions then all should be good. Only after turning by hand would I use the starter to turn it. I once broke a camshaft trying to turn an engine with a stuck valve.

 

[ez8]

A little update for you all.

BLUF: Pulled the oil pan and cleaned, cleaned the oil pickup and screen, emptied oil filter housing, added new oil filter, and Valvoline VR-1 oil.

Tonight I pulled the oil pan to see what the insides looked like and determine whether detergent oil was an option or not. I did some reading through the old army TMs (TM9-2835 Lubrication May 1949) to see what kind of oils were used during this time period (if you're a follower of g741.org you might have seen the thread). I determined through that research detergent oil was likely used for the service life of the vehicle and because the PO bought it directly from the Army it's likely that even if he had used non-detergent oil, the buildup would not be large. I was correct.

Exhibit 1: The oil pan. There was about a 1/4" layer of thin jelly at the bottom of the oil pan (you can see my finger mark in the picture)


Exhibit 2: The engine. This is a clean engine. I was quite shocked.


In any event I replaced the filter with a filter from my stock of Willys MB filters and closed everything up. Check one item off the to-do list.

We'll get there, folks. We're in this together.

 

[longshot2171]

Autolite 2245..
Saturn surplus has them on eb*y at $15. Each..
Supposedly autolite recent discontinued them.
Make sure vent lines are correctly hooked up from carb horn to distributor. The coil will overheat (especially the new aftermarket chrome ones).

 

[ez8]

Got all the lubricants changed. There was quite a bit of goop at the bottom of the transmission which led to an evening long session of cleaning, making new gaskets, and cleanup. But, at the end, it's a clean transmission now. The transfer oil was like new. No foul stenches, not particulate, just a nice color to it. It got changed anyway.

Yesterday afternoon I went to start it and I got one spark at the #1 plug and that was it so today I get to go through the ignition system and diagnose the problem. Since it's been sitting for so long it could be almost anything: coil, capacitor, plugs, points, connections...

Good news is the engine turns over freely, sounds like it has good compression, and is otherwise free of unusual noises.

 

[ez8]

Went through the ignition system today.

1.) Checked the coil, got the following readings:
Primary coil: 8.5 ohms
Secondary Coil: 15,000 ohms
Seems like good readings to me based on some info I found at g741.


2.) Cleaned off points with emery cloth. They weren't corroded to begin with, but they are bright and shiny now.

Still no spark. I've tried resting the #1 plug on the engine, resting the spark plug wire on the engine and I've even jumpered the distributor straight from the battery to eliminate the ignition switch.

In my mind that leaves two possibilities:

1. Capacitor (condenser to some of you)
2. Suppression filter at the line in to the distributor

Is there anything else I could be missing?

 

[NDT]

Sometimes the distributor cap insert will crack and let the spark jump out. This is hard to detect and figure out. Crank the engine with the ignitor cover off and run a wire from the high voltage socket on the coil to a gap to ground. If you get a spark there, but no spark at the wires with the cover put back on, the insert could be cracked.

 

[ez8]

The last couple of weeks have been spent waiting on parts from various sources and learning that to do anything on the distributor on these trucks you have to take it out. The waterproof system also adds an extra layer of fun to everything. That being said, through the liberal application of hard currency I now have spark. Further, it wants to pop off, but the fuel pump is shot. Luckily, the folks at VPW were able to remedy that when I introunced them to my good friend Benjamin Franklin.

For the ignition system I replaced everything but the points which were still in good condition. The coil, while testing ok on the bench, was replaced with a shiny new model, but retained in case of failure.

Time will tell, but so far wrenching on this thing is a blast. Takes me back to high school working on old cars with my dad.

 

[Storm 51]

...Time will tell, but so far wrenching on this thing is a blast.

That is the problem I have with my truck. Working on it is as much (or more) fun than driving it (especially in town). It is like an adult Tonka truck (old style metal ones) or a Lego truck.

 

[ez8]

Well, after a couple false starts I can safely report it's running:


I rebuilt the carburetor this morning and one thing I would like to warn(?) everyone about is the vacuum piston and plunger. You get two plungers in the VPW carb rebuild kit, and the plunger that's hooked up to the replacement piston is too big for the passage. You have to either use your old one (I did) or connect the smaller one they provide (whatever you choose, make sure to give it a little oil first to help seat it). It took me a couple minutes to figure that one out, but once I did, vroom vroom.

However, I have one question: does the governor act as a throttle return spring? I've never worked on a governed system before so I'm not sure what its purpose is other than to limit the throttle of the engine. Looking at the TM I don't see a throttle return spring and my accelerator is currently pegged to the floor unless I use my foot to lift it up so I'm guessing something in the governor is wonky.