Pre-oiling the Dodge 230 engine?

[3006guns]

I've already mentioned that I hope to buy an M37 here locally. Since it's been sitting for years, my first actions would be to pull the oil pan and head in order to get a better idea of the engine's condition. If there's no obvious damage, is there a way to force oil through the engine before start up via an outside oil line anywhere (after the pan/head go back on of course)?

Thanks!

 

[NAM VET]

I just completed a rebuild of my 230 engine. I thought long and hard about finding a way to pre-oil my motor, and there is no easy way to do so. What I did finally was to pull up about a half quart of oil my metal suction device, one of those things used to suck and fill a differential or similar. Then screwed the metal end into my engine's oil pressure fitting, and was able to push about a pint or so into the oil gallery. Not a lot, but I think I at least flooded the main gallery and the cross-over tube. You can crank your engine without turning on the ignition, and that will push some oil around. If your oil pump has lost its prime, you will have to pull it and prime it, and reinstall it. Meaning you need a new gasket for that. As how to be sure your pump and then distributor gear are "timed" and proper, you can find that in the M37 Registry web forum. Best Gaskets have a really nice gasket set, with the proper copper head gasket. You might want to check the valve clearances while you have the carb and manifold off, a lot easier to see what you are doing that way. That too is available on the 37 Registry forum.

see: http://bestgasket.com/engine_catalog_years.asp?YearsCID=1937-60 Dodge Truck (Chrys eng).......[510]

Good luck,

NAM VET

I shudder when I see video's of folks starting a M37's engine that has sat for years, with dry bearings every where.

 

[3006guns]

Thanks again NAM VET. The oil pressure gauge fitting was a good choice and I'll probably do the same, although I have a lever operated hand pump that might force the oil a little better. I've also saved Best Gaskets to my favorites.

 

[mdainsd]

Once you have the head off check for stuck valves, these motors have a reputation for them sticking after sitting too long. Marvel Mystery Oil is your friend. My current M37 sat for 43 years. It had a stuck (and I mean stuck) exhaust valve. I ended up taking off the manifolds. Old presription plastic bottles fit perfectly in the exhaust and intake ports. Then I filled each port from the valve side with MMO and let it work a couple of weeks. The valve eventually came loose, after lots of fooling with it a little bit a day. I took all the valves out and super cleaned the stems and also the guides. Runs like a sewing machine now. Also found the engine had just been depot rebuilt just before it was sent to disposal. No carbon anywhere, crosshatch hone marks look like it was done yesterday. The depot rebuild tag matches the overbore (.020") says the rods and mains are still std.

Hopefully you will have a pleasant surprise when you open yours up!

 

[just me]

I have an old lp cylinder I use as a preoiler. I tie it in at a gallery port and push a gallon of oil in. (Empty oil pan) my starter is a few inches shorter than most and I can get to the plug by the relief valve. (I can also R&R the starter without disturbing the distributor.)

 

[3006guns]

I have an old lp cylinder I use as a preoiler. I tie it in at a gallery port and push a gallon of oil in. (Empty oil pan) my starter is a few inches shorter than most and I can get to the plug by the relief valve. (I can also R&R the starter without disturbing the distributor.)

That's an interesting idea. How do you push the oil.........air pressure on top? I'd really like to know as a standard barbecue cylinder is much larger than my little self contained hand pump made from a grease gun.

 

[just me]

I used an old out if date cylinder. Removed the valve and installed a 1/4 turn valve with a Schrader on the inlet side. Hose to an adapter for whatever pipe size I need.
You remove the valve.
Add a gallon of oil
Replace valve
Pressurize to 50lbs
Attach hose to engine
Turn cylinder upside down
Open valve and wait until you hear air.
You have now pumped 1 gallon through the pressure passages.
Check dip stick
Remove hose and plug gallery port.

It really helps to slowly bar the engine during the oiling so all the ports and passages get covered and uncovered and oil flows everywhere.

 

[3006guns]

I used an old out if date cylinder. Removed the valve and installed a 1/4 turn valve with a Schrader on the inlet side. Hose to an adapter for whatever pipe size I need.
You remove the valve.
Add a gallon of oil
Replace valve
Pressurize to 50lbs
Attach hose to engine
Turn cylinder upside down
Open valve and wait until you hear air.
You have now pumped 1 gallon through the pressure passages.
Check dip stick
Remove hose and plug gallery port.

It really helps to slowly bar the engine during the oiling so all the ports and passages get covered and uncovered and oil flows everywhere.

I like that. Think I'll use it too!

 

[OutpostM37]

Anyone have a picture of the oil galley port that you guys are pressurizing to? I just bought an M37 a week back that sat for 7 years. Oil was drained back at that time.
Thanks!

 

[M543A2]

In a case of engines like described above, I would first pull the pan and clean it. While there I would remove s rod bearing or two and a main and check for acid damage from sitting. We have lost bearings because we did not do that. Bearing coatings chip off and overlap causing clearance loss and resulting failure. Replace the bearings if needed, the pan, fill with good oil. I would then remove the plugs, run a compression check to see what the health of the top end is. If at least acceptable compression pressures I then spin the motor with the plugs out with the starter of if it can be done by pulling the vehicle in gear until oil pressure comes up. With the plugs out there is very little stress on the bearings and as opposed to pressure pre-lube only to the oil gallery the spinning crank will throw oil onto the cam which is also dry and will not be lubed by the pressure pre-lube. The cam will not have the pressure on it of trying to open valves in a running motor when still dry. There can be differences initially beyond what one normally wants to see in compression pressures but at least if it shows the valves are moving then many times valves will free up on the stems and seal better as the engine is run. A second compression check after the engine has warmed up well and run for a while will verify they are getting better or reveal if the head should come off.