FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Speedwoble]

Did anyone here replace some of the rigid brake lines? The lines and fittings are metric but the flare is not the usual metric bubble - at least at the master cylinder.

What line and flare tool should I get if I reuse the fittings? The line needing replacement goes from the front of the cab (starting at the rubber hose) to the T near the proportioning valve and is for the front forward calipers.

Yes, I noticed that myself. I use copper-nickel line exclusively, and did a normal inverted double flare.

 

[alpine44]

Yes, I noticed that myself. I use copper-nickel line exclusively, and did a normal inverted double flare.

Thanks for the info. Where did you get the flaring tool from that will hold but not damage the metric copper-nickel line?

 

[Migginsbros]

Thanks for the info. Where did you get the flaring tool from that will hold but not damage the metric copper-nickel line?

We use this one.
http://kataloge.stahlwille.de/katde1617/#page_288

 

[peakbagger]

I try to use copper nickel when I can, I did my cross body air line with it (instead of stainless). This website if worth taking a look at for supplies and tooling. Be aware their flaring tool is pro grade and priced as such.

http://fedhillusa.com/

The owner of Bel-Metric is a unimog owner and tends to stock odd mog stuff https://www.belmetric.com/. He also sell copper nickel tubing.

 

[Another Ahab]

I try to use copper nickel when I can, I did my cross body air line with it (instead of stainless). This website if worth taking a look at for supplies and tooling. Be aware their flaring tool is pro grade and priced as such.

Is it preferred over stainless. or what's the story there, do you know?

 

[peakbagger]

Stainless is a PITA to work with. Its great for chemical corrosion in industrial plants but overkill for vehicles. Bending stainless on the fly is difficult, and look at it wrong and it might crimp. Copper nickel doesn't work harden like copper, its easy to bend by hand and hard to accidentally crimp when bending. It also is better at sealing. The car industry has known for years that steel brake line tubing is crap in areas with road salt yet they keep using it as its cheap and has built in obsolescence. I have a 97 GMC that has been through two sets of brake lines and one set of fuel lines and on my second tank. The road deicing chemicals used in Northern New England tends to chew up steel lines. Rusted sheetmetal used to be what sent vehicles to the graveyard but in general the car companies had to clean up their acts due to a lot of high profile lawsuits. What kills a lot of cars now is malfunctioning emission controls that wont pass inspection or the owner getting sick of losing their brakes, fuel lines and gas tanks.

 

[The FLU farm]

Today turned out to be a FLUy day. Had to knock down some prairie dog mounds in preparation for grading, so the SEEs got to get the oil thoroughly warmed up.

This was the first time that the dozer blade got put to the test - or more correctly, my dozer blade skills. Predictably, much like with the loader, it's tricky to maintain a grade as the load compresses the front suspension.

It was also the premier for the modified now pusher, now having a Cat cutting edge bolted on instead of the weenie rubber scraper it's supposed to have. Having small skids on the bottom of the side plates, this setup wasn't hard to control. And yes, I know that you're not supposed to use the loader as a dozer, but this is a snow pusher so it shouldn't count.

As luck would have it, the dirt pushing got interrupted when four pallets had be be moved from the hay barn. Already inFLUenced, I fired up the HMMH and got it well warmed up, too.

Actually, there was a fair amount of vehicles involved in today's activities; three FLUs, three tractors, and the little Gator. A good day, in other words, except for the prairie dogs.

 

[The FLU farm]

Many moons ago, Ahab asked for photos of FLUs towing something. Well, Ahab, here's one.

Knowing that this multi-vehicle day would come, I whipped up a little tow bar for the Gator so I wouldn't have to walk back and forth when shuttling vehicles. While it's common to hear people say "I couldn't tell it was there." when they're towing something, in this case it was true. Couldn't even see the Gator in the mirrors.

 

[rtrask]

Many moons ago, Ahab asked for photos of FLUs towing something. Well, Ahab, here's one.View attachment 695331
/QUOTE]I thought you were going to say that the gator was pushing the FLU

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[The FLU farm]

I thought you were going to say that the gator wss pushing the FLU

I have pushed FLUs with tow bars...just not with the Gator. Yet.

 

[Okie Coyote]

SEE Flu 419 Clutch

I cant get the clutch disengage on my SEE Flu 419. Seems to be stuck to Fly wheel and pressure plate.
Does anyone have any experience repairing this issue?
Thanks

 

[alpine44]

I cant get the clutch disengage on my SEE Flu 419. Seems to be stuck to Fly wheel and pressure plate.
Does anyone have any experience repairing this issue?
Thanks

Does the clutch pedal feel like a clutch pedal? Increasing resistance and then decreasing?
Does the clutch throwout arm move when a helper presses the clutch pedal?

If both is the case, I would set the emergency brake, put the gear selectors in the highest gear, and turn the big bolt in front of the crankshaft with up to 400 ft-lbs (the max torque for tightening this bolt) while someone else presses the clutch pedal. Unfortunately, you would have to remove the radiator to get to the bolt. But that is a piece of cake compared to separating the transmission from the engine bellhousing - which you would have to do if the procedure outlined above does not break the clutch plate free.

 

[The FLU farm]

You could also try to drive it, on and off the throttle, which sometimes is enough to break it free.

 

[farmertan]

First off Thanks flufarm my see came with a remote starter switch and i remember a few pages back you cleaned your clutch safety switch and it worked for you so i took mine out and used the smallest cal brass brush .22 out of my gun cleaning supplies and cleaned the female side and emery cloth on the posts and reinstalled, pushed the button and lit my test light up like a christmas tree. Really after all that it was that easy. A .17s brush would be even better... hmmm i new i could find a reason to buy a new wood chuck eliminator.

 

[The FLU farm]

... hmmm i new i could find a reason to buy a new wood chuck eliminator.

You're welcome, farmertan. I've spent all my money on FLUs now, so while the neighbors use .17s a lot, the sod poodles (aka prairie dogs) here get converted to bird food using the cheap and trusty .22.
And I hope your SEE's switch works not just with the test light now, but in real life. It seems that they often show continuity with a Voltmeter or test light, yet won't do their job.

 

[farmertan]

Sod poodles is one I've never heard before lol. When i got it the safety switch would make a click (weak) but no power was getting to start button then it stopped clicking alltogether. After cleaning it was a loud click and instant power to wire behind start button and ohyeah! it works, it probably helped when i removed remote start that i cleaned all the starter connections. I also replaced the clutch master that was leaking right on the safety switch but the contacts were not wet.Now i am replacing the fuel lines, pump, filter housing got lucky and my diesel mechanic had this kit from s.u.r&r fuelsender.com the hoses are not metric but fit tight and it comes with clamps works great.

 

[Another Ahab]

You're welcome, farmertan. I've spent all my money on FLUs now, so while the neighbors use .17s a lot, the sod poodles (aka prairie dogs) here get converted to bird food using the cheap and trusty .22.

Read somewhere once that for all the talk of firepower and stopping power and all that line of ballistics talk, that historically the caliber of choice for 20th Century clandestine "eliminations" was regularly the .22 (and at that, typically a Ruger, Model No. 5). The End.

 

[The FLU farm]

Read somewhere once that for all the talk of firepower and stopping power and all that line of ballistics talk, that historically the caliber of choice for 20th Century clandestine "eliminations" was regularly the .22 (and at that, typically a Ruger, Model No. 5). The End.

Supposedly most people are also killed by .22s, not larger calibers. After three 1-shot coyote kills from about 80 yards, I'm now a believer in the "power" of that cheap rimfire.

 

[Another Ahab]

If you place the round "deftly" (can you say "head shot"), that small caliber WILL get the job done.

 

[farmertan]

Quick question, does anyone have a bulb in there voltmeter gauge or did the military remove them because there to bright? I have seen video of see's and there meter is not lit up either. I notice all the other gauges have little rubbers on the bulbs and mine are fairly dim. I get the lets be sneaky don't want to be seen by enemy night vision but i would like to see my gauges at night. Some of my cars also have the rubber over the bulb i always thought so it didn't melt the gauge over time. Or do you think I can remove them without to much problem over time? And where's the best place to buy these 24v dash bulbs? Ok that was more than one quick question.