M925 winch info needed

[farmerboywyotech]

Ok what if i put a selector valve in and run a separate circuit. I have a 15 gallon reservoir im gonna try and tie into the original. Might tie all 3 together not sure yet. The factory control valve is open center correct. which means oil flows through until the lever is moved then it redirects to the winch motor. I know that it has an open center spool but thats not the same as open center hydraulics. If the oil dead heads at the valve then its actually a closed center system. Ill get pics of the other pump and motor i intend to use. Unless someone has a 3 spool valve they wnat to off. Otherwise the truck system is all factory.

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[tobyS]

It's an open center system. The spool has closed ports until it is shifted forward or reverse, but there is a path for oil to go from pressure to tank. The pump has gears and pumps all the time.

You don't need a different pump, you need a valve that would be installed on the pressure side of the pump and it's outlet plumbed to the inlet of the existing valve (thus thru feed).

It doesn't matter how you get the extra fluid, but I'd have about 1.5 or more times the lift cylinder capacity.

 

[tobyS]

In my opinion, forget selector valves.

 

[Jbulach]

It is an open centered hydraulic system, but the winch control valve has a "motor spool", A&B ports are open to the tank when the valve is centered/in neutral.

I personally think your looking at an overly complicated solution to your problem, but hey I'm the king of overly complicated, IF it saves me time or a dollar! Do you have a suitable hydraulic motor laying around?

If you are set on adding a directional control valve, you'll want it after the pump and before the winch control valve. This will need to be a "power beyond" valve with it's own return to the tank. Going from memory, I think the pump is rated at 27GPM and 3000PSI, winch control valve rated at 2500PSI and set to 1750PSI+-200, so I would match your valve accordingly. I may have a used, single spool valve, around that I would let go reasonable, and guarantee.

However the simplest way I can think of making your idea work would be to add single circuit, selector valve (3 port), between the pump and winch valve. You would still need to add a tank return line from the motor your adding.

 

[tobyS]

Jbulach is right, the correct designation is "power beyond". It won't have a relief and has full pressure/flow on it's "out" side.

I thought the winch motor was blocked in the neutral/center position, not open to tank...but I haven't had my 925 in a few years, so take Jbulach's word on that.

If I'm understanding, you're proposing to use the 925 pump and divert the flow to another motor that then drives a second pump?

 

[tobyS]

Check out this if you want to go the selector route. I'd have the detente and this link is to the 1" since it's cheaper

http://northernhydraulics.net/catal...selector-valve-sd4bkla6-1-nptf-ports-655.html

Or you can go electric (but sol does not specify voltage)

http://northernhydraulics.net/catal...-selector-valve-sd4bgba6-34-solenoid-654.html

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I have a good used Selector valve that is like new if your interested.
It is like this one.
http://northernhydraulics.net/catal...lector-valve-sd4bkla4-34-nptf-ports-1659.html

 

[farmerboywyotech]

I have one of those selector valves plumbed in already. I did it to have a rear remote for my dump trailer. I wouldnt even consider what i asked but i have a pump/valve/reservoir that came with the hoist. I did stumble upon what i need to do it right. A 3 spool control valve. I can eliminate the selector valve then also and ill be able to run the hoist and have a remote and also a spare for when i get my snow plow mounted.

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[Jbulach]

I'm not sure if I have any 3 spools, I know I have 1 and 2 spools. I'll have to check "the pile" tomorrow"...

 

[farmerboywyotech]

Sounds like quite "the pile". The shop i used to work it has one sitting on a shelf. Its been there for at least 6 years that i know of. Im gonna see if i can get a deal on it. Its a prince rd5000 series. Just have to get a power beyond plug to convert it. Its already open center.

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[farmerboywyotech]

So i picked up that valve today. But i have one more question. When i plumb it for power beyond do i need a return line on that valve as well or just the power beyond for out flow?

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[rhurey]

Return line. The power beyond will go dead when you use that valve and fluid will flow out the return.

 

[tobyS]

So i picked up that valve today. But i have one more question. When i plumb it for power beyond do i need a return line on that valve as well or just the power beyond for out flow?

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The "out" side of the (new) valve goes to the pressure in side of the old valve where the pump was connected. Pressure goes from pump to the new valve and then into the old valve then to the tank. No...no tank line. The new line does have to be a pressure line, not low pressure tank return line.

 

[Jbulach]

Sounds like quite "the pile". The shop i used to work it has one sitting on a shelf. Its been there for at least 6 years that i know of. Im gonna see if i can get a deal on it. Its a prince rd5000 series. Just have to get a power beyond plug to convert it. Its already open center.

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Yep, it's quite the pile! Most times a blessing, sometimes a curse.
Those are the same series valves I have, but unfortunately, no 3-spools.

So i picked up that valve today. But i have one more question. When i plumb it for power beyond do i need a return line on that valve as well or just the power beyond for out flow?

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Yes, the new valve needs its own tank return as well, for the power beyond function.

 

[Jbulach]

Although a bit pricey, they also make some cool looking cable operated, remote joysick controls for these valves.

I'm not sure if these are the best prices, just the first search that popped up for me.
I may try these on a two spool, setup the same as your doing, if I ever get my snowplow instal complete

 

[tobyS]

Apparently the valve (if you have the same as Jbulach) is set up for flow going to tank from the return line of the work port that does not pass through the 2nd valve. That style does have a tank line.

There are also the type that put that flow into the thru feed port and don't use the additional tank line.

 

[tobyS]

Although a bit pricey, they also make some cool looking cable operated, remote joysick controls for these valves.
View attachment 697524
I'm not sure if these are the best prices, just the first search that popped up for me.
I may try these on a two spool, setup the same as your doing, if I ever get my snowplow instal complete

I've always wondered if the high amount of flow for a winch (a 3/4" valve for power beyond about 30gpm) will work very well for a plow that uses very small flow (5-10 gpm). Let me know how it works when you do it .

 

[Jbulach]

Will do! This is a BIG plow with massive, angle cylinders. The lift cylinder is a lot smaller, but I think I should be able to regulate the speed with throttle and maybe a little finesse of the spool.
I hope to get back on this in a few months. Looks like farmerboywyotech might get to do some testing before me.

 

[tobyS]

Will do! This is a BIG plow with massive, angle cylinders. The lift cylinder is a lot smaller, but I think I should be able to regulate the speed with throttle and maybe a little finesse of the spool.
I hope to get back on this in a few months. Looks like farmerboywyotech might get to do some testing before me.

When you do it, put a needle valve on both ports and you might have a chance.

 

[farmerboywyotech]

I dont think itll be an issue. Its only like 14gpm at idle. Even 30gpm isnt that much. New tractors are up in the ballpark of 50gpm on high flow models. Our john deeres from the early nineties are right at about 30gpm. I would say side by side running my dump trailer the tractor is just a smidge faster.

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