m1008 fuel tank help

[weldergonecrazy]

I realized the other day that the fuel tank on my M1008 is leaking...pretty bad. I put an empty catch pan under it this morning at about 10:00, and checked it when we got home at 5:30 and there was about a gallon in it, but the dripping had all but stoped (I think the tank ran empty). There is no puncture hole so I am guessing that is is rust, and probably isn't worth welding (I hate welding on fuel tanks anyhow, that noisy little "pop" that tends to maime a person or end his life entirely is a rather undesirable possible outcome) What I would like to know is if there are any other fuel tanks I could use, such as Blazer, or suburban factory fuel tanks, and also is there a difference between gas and diesel tanks in these trucks? There is a diesel suburban in the local junk yard, but I don't know if it still has the tank in it, but it does, however have a secondary spin on fuel filter I wouldn't mind getting off from it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[underdog]

80's model GM trucks are prone to fuel and brake lines rotting.
You may want to look it over better paying particular attention to the hard lines.
If it is a line they will leak more while running.
At any rate you should plan on replacing the fuel and brake lines while you have the tank down

 

[2deuce]

My truck also needs a new tank. The old one is out and it looks very shiny inside except for only a couple rust spots about the size of a quarter. The one directly below the sending unit hole has a pin hole. I'm looking for a new tank that is bigger than the stock one, but will accept the same mount and sending unit. If anyone has a lead on one let us know, I'd like to go plastic if possible.

Thanks

 

[weldergonecrazy]

I checked out JC Whitney online, and found a bunch of options. They carry both metal and plastic replacement fuel tanks, in the original 16 gal configuration, or the larger 20 gal. The 16 and 20 gal metal tanks were $109 plus shipping, and the poly tanks were $140 plus shipping. I am going to check out the local parts store this morning. If They can get me one for approx the same price minus shipping, then I'm gonna order one on the spot. For some reason I thought a new tank was going to run more like $350. It's nice to get a nice surprise once in a while (not the leaking fuel tank, but the lower than expected price).

 

[weldergonecrazy]

Well, I stopped at the local Discount Auto Parts Store, and they ordered me up a brand new 20 gal replacement tank for the acceptable sum of $106 (out the door). They said that it will be here this afternoon! Once in a while they get it right!

 

[JohnFire]

Quick one while we are on fuel tanks. I haven't getten too look at miy 1028's tank yet since where I am working, but I know according to some of the vehicle specs from the TM a M1008 has a 20 gal tank, but they list the M1028 with a 27 gal tank. I am curious as to if it really has a 27 gal or is it a typo. I found the listing in the Transporability TM.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

FYI, you can get a 25gal, or a 31gal tank for the m1008's I just put a 25gal into my truck this past fall after having a "fun" time at the GA rally and driving all the way home with a fuel leak.

 

[2deuce]

Catlett, Was that 31 gal tank steel or plastic? I can't find anything out here in oregon over 20 gal and thats steel. I've called napa, and baxters 2 radiator shops, 3 wrecking yards and a chev dealership. You'll be happy to hear the tank is still available from GM at only $398.10. I haven't given up but if you have a source you can give me for your tank, I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Greg

 

[weldergonecrazy]

I got the new tank installed the other day...a few words of advice: 1st ...don't be such a cheap scate, pay someone else to do it for you. 2nd start off by buying one foot each of 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 fuel line to replace the old dried out ones that connect the fuel sending unit to the hard lines. and 3rd try not to have a thousand pounds of anything in the bed while undertaking the project. I found out all of this the hard way (as I usually do)! The old tank came out just fine, except for all the diesel that leaked all over me and my clothes (three cycles through the wash and they still smell like raw fuel). one of the short fuel lines was dried and tore when I lowered the tank...no big deal...I can just cut it clean and reuse it...after all it is only a 1/2" shorter...WRONG!!! I found this out while trying to reach up between the frame rail and tank, and connect the hoses with one hand blind. It occured to me that the simplest thing would be to unbolt the bed and slide it back a couple of inches so you could just reach in and work on it from the side...But the darned thing was full of dirt and old mulch from my "wife's project" (somehow her projects always involve me and lots of labor while she makes iced tea or something in the house?! Any one else have this problem?). So moving the bed was out of the question. After a trip to the local parts place, new fuel line in hand, and a couple of hours of choice words, my new fuel tank was installed. What really gets me is the fact that I think I lost somewhere in the neighborhood of 14 gal of diesel...at $3.40 / gal!!! Now I have another problem. I think I have a fuel starvation problem. I'm not sure if I have some rust chunks in the line or what, but at startup I have full power for a short time then it starts to starve and will barely run (won't accelerate), and will stall when I let off the throttle. I guess Life would be booring if everything went according to plan.

 

[Jersey4x4]

GM1B is the part number for the correct tank for the M1008/K30 and it was never available from GM with anything bigger then the 20 gallon tank. The M1009/K5 had a 20 in it but also the civy version has a 25, 31 and 40 gallon tank

 

[weldergonecrazy]

So I pulled off the fuel filter and blew out the lines, hoping to dislodge anything that might be blocking the lines...But I wasn't thinking. What I think I did is foul up the fuel pump, so after a quick trip to Autozone, and $20, I installed a new fuel pump. I cranked, and cranked, and cranked, and cranked (you get the picture), but it did not start. I have the batteries on the charger (because I drew them dead trying to start the engine) I guess I'll try it again in the morning with freshly charged batteries.

 

[Jersey4x4]

did you bleed the fuel system? lossen the black knob on the fuel filter and crank the engine for a few seconds.

 

[123pv]

is it [pssible to drop the tank without removing the bed?

 

[cucvrus]

yes it is possible. It will be challenging to get the fuel lines off but it is possible. If it were me. I would cut the fuel lines. Avoid messing with the old clamps and hard seated hose. I would then replace the clamps ad the 3 sizes of fuel line with new and new clamps. The real challenge that taught me was changing fuel tanks on 2 M1010's and a few M1031 contact maintenance trucks. But yes it is possible. Take the 8 bolts from the inner frame rail off. Not the tank straps till it is off the truck. Good Luck.

 

[Recovry4x4]

yes it is possible. It will be challenging to get the fuel lines off but it is possible. If it were me. I would cut the fuel lines. Avoid messing with the old clamps and hard seated hose. I would then replace the clamps ad the 3 sizes of fuel line with new and new clamps. The real challenge that taught me was changing fuel tanks on 2 M1010's and a few M1031 contact maintenance trucks. But yes it is possible. Take the 8 bolts from the inner frame rail off. Not the tank straps till it is off the truck. Good Luck.

As an owner of an ambulance and a contact truck, I can tell you that this info is spot on. Have fuel hose on hand, you will need it.

 

[joshuak]

x3 on cucvrus's intel. When I dropped the tank on my '10 I found a section of reinforcement to be in the way removing one of the 8 bolts mentioned, had to cut the offending area with a angle grinder. The reinforcement on the other side had the correct shape, maybe it got assembled on opposite sides. FWIW, when installing the new tank I added I few inches to each section of hose made it a little easier to tighten the clamps.

 

[corelokt]

Use 30r14 rated hose. Even if you have to go online for it. Also, use hose barbs with rounded barbs, not sharp. The hose has a thin lining in it. Having the hose hang down the side of the tank is a great idea.

 

[cucvrus]

x3 on cucvrus's intel. When I dropped the tank on my '10 I found a section of reinforcement to be in the way removing one of the 8 bolts mentioned, had to cut the offending area with a angle grinder. The reinforcement on the other side had the correct shape, maybe it got assembled on opposite sides. FWIW, when installing the new tank I added I few inches to each section of hose made it a little easier to tighten the clamps.

View attachment 701252

Yes Sir that is how they were made. I removed that bracket also. That was part of the body mount that mark Body Company added to reinforce the frame flange. I removed several of the M1010 bodies from the chassis when they were about 8 -10 years old. The bolts were not rusted fast and I recall easily removed. Nice picture of the flange bracket. I think 1 ft of 1/4" 1 ft of 5/16" and 1 ft of 3/8" fuel line and 6 clamps and you will be good to go again. I say it like it's easy as that.

 

[Drock]

I also have a question on this subject. How hard is it to add a second fuel tank to the passenger side of a M1008 or M1028? Will I need to pull the bed for this one?

 

[cucvrus]

I also have a question on this subject. How hard is it to add a second fuel tank to the passenger side of a M1008 or M1028? Will I need to pull the bed for this one?

Same goes. No. And the tank is the same tank just switched around. Same brackets also. The plumbing is fairly easy. I had one and Y ed the suction side. It pulled almost equal and I only used the stock left sending unit. It was NOT dead on but accurate enough. I have a few that the fuel gauge is accurate and others not so good. the only way I ever fixed the issue was changed the head unit gauge and the sending unit with new. A few it was just one or the other. But both were fairly inexpensive and it solved the issue rather inexpensively at the time. Good Luck. You could even fill the right tank thru the rear wheel opening so no hacking thru the bedside and trying to fill it in again.