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The price M1009 rear axle DIY rebuild

B

Bighorn

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I pulled the trigger on a new 3.08 ring and pinion to replace the damaged set in the 8.5 GM 10 bolt axle in the 1986 M1009.
The old R&P had rust damage, pitting on the drive face, and a gov lock carrier showing signs of damage to the locking mechanism.

I thought it might be interesting for anyone else contemplating a similar project to see the cost of a complete axle overhaul/upgrade of a stock M1009 10 bolt.

I will retain 31 x 10.5 x 15 tire size with a New set of BF Goodrich KM2's to replace the cracked tires my M1009 came with.
I already have a 1976 K5 Blazer on 33's and 3.73's and I wanted to keep this 1986 M1009 on 31's but with the punch of fully locked differentials to match.
Gear Ratio;
New 3.08 Ring and Pinion by Richmond.
The 3.08 ratio is perfect for the M1009 on 31's for economy and the NP208's low range makes off-road still a breeze.
Might have gone 3.42 but then I would have to swap the front gears and they are pristine and already locked up with a Spartan locker.
However, I am upgrading to a 30 spline Detroit Locker and Yukon gear 30 spline axle shafts.

The last ring and pinion sets I did the hard way.. a splitter and a two jaw puller.
I got smart this time and bought the clam shell carrier bearing and pinion puller by Yukon Gear.

Things I learned;
Prior to 1988 the GM corporate 10 bolt axle has a 28 spline carrier and axle shafts but a newer 30 spline carrier can go right into our older housings.
The newer 30 spline axle shafts can be swapped into our old M1009's along with a 30 spline carrier.
The aftermarket carrier requires HD carrier bearings in order to fit the Detroit locker (or Eaton limited slip, or True-trac etc).

What does it cost to completely rebuild or upgrade a GM 10 bolt axle these days?
Part numbers and prices.
Here you go;

Detroit Locker GM 10 bolt 30 spline 8.5/8.6 DTL-187C148A $674.99
Richmond Ring and Pinion 3.08 RMG-49-0017-1 $230.49
Summit racing dial indicator & magnetic base SUM-900016-1 $ 29.97
Yukon Gear outer axle bearings and seals YGA-10001(1559) $ 49.10
Yukon HD axle overhaul kit with HD Timken YGA-14088 $211.42
Yukon Gear rear axle shafts 31.5 " 30 spline(2) YGA-21266 $350.98
Yukon Gear c-clips (2) YGA-21266 $ 8.54
Yukon Gear Carrier bearing puller YGA-56072 $519.86

Free shipping
Total $2,075.35
I am providing all the labor.

Now I just need the snow to hold off long enough for the parts to arrive and allow me to tear into this axle.
I'll check back with pictures when I get the parts and begin the project.
 
C

Chaski

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Don't forget to add in a nice inch pound dial type torque wrench and a case spreader. Between those two is another $300-600 and it is difficult to set preload without them.

Sounds like a fun project, I like setting up gears.
 
B

Bighorn

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Chaski said:
Don't forget to add in a nice inch pound dial type torque wrench and a case spreader. Between those two is another $300-600 and it is difficult to set preload without them.

Sounds like a fun project, I like setting up gears.
Click to expand...
I used a crowbar to get the cases out of the front and rear 10 bolts of my 1984 K5.
Then putting them back in (after the setup shims were finalized) I made sure it was a tight enough fit to need a dead blow hammer.
For the pinion I used feel.
Both those diffs out lasted the truck.
But I hear you.
Always nice to have the right tools for the job.
and what you mentioned IS the proper way.

EDIT;
Thought about it.. you are right.
Too much money being spent here to cut corners.
Proper preload on the 8.5 is .010".
The danger is that the bearings could wear in quickly an not leave enough preload in the long haul causing case deflection and excessive wear.. or worse to the R&P
That .010" is way more than just tapping it into place with a dead blow hammer.
The hammer install probably was .003" of preload at most.
Bought a case spreader for the 8.5 on Ebay $170.00 from a fella who makes them here in the USA.
I will order up and inch pound torque wrench from Summit while I am at it.

Thanks for making me think twice.
 
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B

Bighorn

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Rustyshackelford said:
Sorry man but you could buy and install better axles for that much money.
Click to expand...
I live in far northern Wyoming.
If you have a set to sell, let me know.
Boyce wants 2k per axle and I would have to drive 16 hours round trip to pickem up.
There aren't a whole lot of wrecking yards in Wyoming.. we only have 580,000 people in the whole state.
Checked craigslist and found nothing within 1,000 miles of 82431.
I come back to swapping the 12 bolt and 44 outta my 76 k5 but 3.73 is steeper than I want and the 12 bolt is only marginally stronger.
The dang gov lock carrier makes it difficult.
If you know where I can get a 14 bolt 6 lug in 3.42 with a detroit, let me know.
Then I would still have to swap the front r&p in the 10 bolt.
I doubt I could have a built matching set of axles any cheaper than I quoted above.
 
C

Chaski

Active member
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Location
Burney/CA
Bighorn said:
I used a crowbar to get the cases out of the front and rear 10 bolts of my 1984 K5.
Then putting them back in (after the setup shims were finalized) I made sure it was a tight enough fit to need a dead blow hammer.
For the pinion I used feel.
Both those diffs out lasted the truck.
But I hear you.
Always nice to have the right tools for the job.
and what you mentioned IS the proper way.

EDIT;
Thought about it.. you are right.
Too much money being spent here to cut corners.
Proper preload on the 8.5 is .010".
The danger is that the bearings could wear in quickly an not leave enough preload in the long haul causing case deflection and excessive wear.. or worse to the R&P
That .010" is way more than just tapping it into place with a dead blow hammer.
The hammer install probably was .003" of preload at most.
Bought a case spreader for the 8.5 on Ebay $170.00 from a fella who makes them here in the USA.
I will order up and inch pound torque wrench from Summit while I am at it.

Thanks for making me think twice.
Click to expand...

You'll love having that clamshell type puller and a case spreader. Almost makes setting up gears a pleasure. If the case spreader is painted hammer tone green and sold by a seller on eBay I have the same one. It is beefy, pretty sure you could break a case before you broke it.
 
B

Bighorn

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I ended up swapping the axles with my 1976 K5 blazer instead.
Summit cancelled the order so I saved the 2 grand.

Now my M1009 has a 12 bolt rear that I already built with 3.73 gears, a Powertrax No-slip locker, new bearings and seals, and Yukon alloy axle shafts.
The front axle is a Dana 44 3.73, with all new seals ;even the inner axle seals, ball joints, axle joints, and a Spartan locker.

The 10 bolts from the M1009 went on the 1976 K5 Blazer.
Since that truck is rusty and has cracks in the frame, it made sense to do that.
Still some life left in the 76; I will use it to haul garbage this winter for the lodge.
But in the long term, it will get sold for parts due to the frame issue.

The M1009 is my new honey and it will get the money.

Oh yea; Thank You to everyone here.
It was listening to your advice on this thread that made me think twice and re-evaluate what I was doing.
Saved me some bucks too.
(More money to spend somewhere else on the M1009)
Thank you.
 
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B

Bighorn

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Sometimes I try and outsmart myself.
Miss the obvious.
The 3.73 gears and 33 inch tires are just ideal for my situation up here.
The 6.2 torque seems peak right where I need it now on the grade.
 
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