Just picked up an MEP-803a

[robson1015]

Tongue weight will be heavy with an extra 600 pounds.

 

[robson1015]

I haven't got it running yet but I did pick up this combo locker/75 gallon transfer tank and pump! Super excited. Do you all see anything wrong with mounting that tank there? I mean it's no closer than the internal tank.

Thanks
Joe

View attachment 706361View attachment 706362View attachment 706363

What is meant by "Its no closer than the internal tank" ????

 

[Demoh]

Ahh the Fort Stewart unit. I watched it go, wasnt on my bid list but I am curious on how it runs (I got a 802A non-running from Fort Gordon a few weeks prior that runs great and a 3 hour running unit I havent picked up yet)... I am always curious on whats wrong with the non-runners.

Ill share some fuel knowledge I have as I suspect you might run into this issue when you are ready to fire yours up.

My non-running unit had fuel sender issues which prevented it from running without battle short on. After studying and testing with the TMs in hand on my 802A I have come up with a work-around that allows me to run without battleshort so if I lose something critical the unit will still shutdown. My problem ended up being on the fuel circuit it wouldnt give the "good" signal for the fault handling. (pin Z on the diag port). what I ended up doing is jamming a paperclip into the diag port connecting pin R and pin Z. I say this because it might help you if you end up going gaugeless, but be warned that I think that A) this is assuming pin Z isnt getting any voltage and B) you 803 is wired the same way as my 802. Also beware, the cap for the diag port conducts and will trip the controls breaker if your paperclip touches it. I do suspect my 802 is wired differently or has an additional problem (1995 libby) because the unit refuses to start with battleshort. In order to start I have to QUICKLY (under 3 seconds) start the unit then when the engine catches turn battleshort on, or with battleshort on jam a box end wrench into the starter terminals to jump it off that way. (Not worried about it because my bypass works for me and I have to pick up my 2009 dang near mint condition runner next week)

 

[Daybreak]

Ahh the Fort Stewart unit. I watched it go, wasnt on my bid list but I am curious on how it runs (I got a 802A non-running from Fort Gordon a few weeks prior that runs great and a 3 hour running unit I havent picked up yet)... I am always curious on whats wrong with the non-runners.

Ill share some fuel knowledge I have as I suspect you might run into this issue when you are ready to fire yours up.

My non-running unit had fuel sender issues which prevented it from running without battle short on. After studying and testing with the TMs in hand on my 802A I have come up with a work-around that allows me to run without battleshort so if I lose something critical the unit will still shutdown. My problem ended up being on the fuel circuit it wouldnt give the "good" signal for the fault handling. (pin Z on the diag port). what I ended up doing is jamming a paperclip into the diag port connecting pin R and pin Z. I say this because it might help you if you end up going gaugeless, but be warned that I think that A) this is assuming pin Z isnt getting any voltage and B) you 803 is wired the same way as my 802. Also beware, the cap for the diag port conducts and will trip the controls breaker if your paperclip touches it. I do suspect my 802 is wired differently or has an additional problem (1995 libby) because the unit refuses to start with battleshort. In order to start I have to QUICKLY (under 3 seconds) start the unit then when the engine catches turn battleshort on, or with battleshort on jam a box end wrench into the starter terminals to jump it off that way. (Not worried about it because my bypass works for me and I have to pick up my 2009 dang near mint condition runner next week)

Howdy,
No military generator will start with battle short on.

 

[Demoh]

Howdy,
No military generator will start with battle short on.

Hmm, good to know... Guess they want units in running condition before needing power regardless if it blows the unit up or not.... Wonder how many times some soldier who really needed power jumped the starter like I did.... At least theres nothing to fix on that circuit.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Not sure how you plan to use your genset... If just for home backup and it were me, I would want just a dedicated auxiliary fuel tank, a round or rectangular tank will minimize space requirements and facilitate better fuel capacity. Really no need for the extra space-taking tool box, unless you are planning on using genset in remote locations contractor style and need the added storage for tools, cables, etc. Also you really don't need the added transfer hose pump shown unless you are planning on also using/transferring the stored fuel to other diesel equipment. Not sure if you are aware or not, but your genset already has its own pump to automatically pump and transfer fuel over from an aux tank into the generator's day tank when it gets down to about 1/4 full. That way you don't have to monitor or worry about transferring fuel yourself during a storm when you are without power when using the generator's aux tank automatic transfer features.

 

[Guyfang]

Joe, might be a good time to start with the operators manual. As Chainbreakerr said, you don't need an aux pump, you already have one. Install your S1. Find out if you have other problems. Service it. One step at a time. One thing at a time. Don't assume anything. But the first step is to get smart about your set. Study the operators manual. In the end, you will save mucho time and money.

 

[Guyfang]

Ahh the Fort Stewart unit. I watched it go, wasnt on my bid list but I am curious on how it runs (I got a 802A non-running from Fort Gordon a few weeks prior that runs great and a 3 hour running unit I havent picked up yet)... I am always curious on whats wrong with the non-runners.

Ill share some fuel knowledge I have as I suspect you might run into this issue when you are ready to fire yours up.

My non-running unit had fuel sender issues which prevented it from running without battle short on. After studying and testing with the TMs in hand on my 802A I have come up with a work-around that allows me to run without battleshort so if I lose something critical the unit will still shutdown. My problem ended up being on the fuel circuit it wouldnt give the "good" signal for the fault handling. (pin Z on the diag port). what I ended up doing is jamming a paperclip into the diag port connecting pin R and pin Z. I say this because it might help you if you end up going gaugeless, but be warned that I think that A) this is assuming pin Z isnt getting any voltage and B) you 803 is wired the same way as my 802. Also beware, the cap for the diag port conducts and will trip the controls breaker if your paperclip touches it. I do suspect my 802 is wired differently or has an additional problem (1995 libby) because the unit refuses to start with battleshort. In order to start I have to QUICKLY (under 3 seconds) start the unit then when the engine catches turn battleshort on, or with battleshort on jam a box end wrench into the starter terminals to jump it off that way. (Not worried about it because my bypass works for me and I have to pick up my 2009 dang near mint condition runner next week)

Demoh,

instead of bypassing, you need to troubleshoot the problem. It would be a shame if you burned the thing up.

 

[Demoh]

Demoh,

instead of bypassing, you need to troubleshoot the problem. It would be a shame if you burned the thing up.

I agree, but with my time constraints I havent been able to yet (I still have my hurricane shutters up from Irma.) Once I get that time and I am ready to revisit it ill post a thread so Im not stealing this one. I have a machine shop, auto shop, heavy electrical background, etc... that means I get things working for long periods of time on duct tape and baling wire.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Hey guys,

I know I don't need the external pump and such. However, I do have a diesel truck and track loader that will actually benefit more from the external tank than the Generator. My plan was to hook it up directly to the secondary pump on the genny.

Joe

 

[Joe Drifter]

So I got my new fuel cap in. Installed it. Looks right and it seals great. Little duct tape residue. No biggie. Taking a look at the new S1 switch too. I found it on the diagram on the inside! You can also see a pic of the hole in the tank. It's a thick tank so I was planning to using a fuel stable epoxy and run a plug into it. Should work.

Joe

Joe

 

[Joe Drifter]

Do you all know where this plug goes? Found it floating inside the genny.



Thanks
Joe

 

[jamawieb]

Usually when you have holes put into the fuel tank, it usually meant catastrophic failure of the genset and they didn't want it used. But the hole you have may have just been a accident. I've seen them drill several holes all over the tank when the genset was no good.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Well that's not good. But I am the total optimist and I think I can fix just about anything. I am going to pick up 2 size 26 batteries from Wallyworld and hopefully I can see if this turd will crank. LOL I will keep you all posted.

Joe

 

[Light in the Dark]

That plug should go into the 'oil drain' fitting, on the outside of the enclosure. Below one of the side doors.. just thread it into that.

 

[NATCAD]

Usually when you have holes put into the fuel tank, it usually meant catastrophic failure of the genset and they didn't want it used. But the hole you have may have just been a accident. I've seen them drill several holes all over the tank when the genset was no good.

I wonder why the didnt write or scratch in "NFG" they seem to love writing stuff all over the exterior of generators

 

[Joe Drifter]

It would seem to be a drain of sorts. However, outside needs a cap. Unless they changed things around. I filled it up with oil and nothing leaked or is leaking out.

Joe

 

[DieselAddict]

It would seem to be a drain of sorts. However, outside needs a cap. Unless they changed things around. I filled it up with oil and nothing leaked or is leaking out.

Joe

View attachment 706455View attachment 706456

They threaded a nipple into the oil drain fitting in the image. Remove the nipple and install the plug.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Are you referring to the 90 degree bend going into the block for what looks like a quick oil drain thing?

Thanks
Joe

 

[DieselAddict]

No, the part that is sticking out of the side of the enclosure. It is threaded into the fitting.