New guy, "new" 1985 M1009

[TrappHouse]

Just picked up an M1009. I'll be posting pictures soon. Doesn't look too converted from it's military config. There are some obvious things. Glow plug switch added/bypassed, missing an alternator, 4" lift with 37" military tires (HMMVW?)

I will be trying to figure out how far I want "unconvert" it with your help. Still has blackout switch and lights, and the engine runs well. Body is garbage, but looks rugged. Currently 39000 miles and has spent at least 6 years in Kodiak. It came from the east coast at a state trooper rig and when it was released to the public it was a hunting rig.

First couple things I need to do are: Renew the steering box (I'm sure the tires have taken a toll on it and it leaks,) renew all tie rod ends, pittman arm ends etc...

I have one question right away: I have two batteries, when I crank it over cold I hold the glow plugs for 10 seconds, crank, hold for 5, crank and it normally starts. The cranking on the cold engine is very labored. What I mean by that is that it cranks slow and seems like it struggles. After it warms up it cranks over easily and starts right away. I have a block heater, tranny heater and a j/w heater. I can link a YouTube video if necessary.

 

[dependable]

Welcome to the site. Sounds like yours was converted to 12V, which is not necessarily bad, but the 24 V would serve you well in winter where you are.

Charge, check and load test batteries first. Also check terminals and grounds. Might be good to confirm you have the right starter for the voltage it is set up for.

Please take time to read the 'stickys' at top of CUCV forum. They will answer a lot of questions.

 

[TrappHouse]

What is the correct part number for the steering box, and what other vehicles can I use as a donor?

 

[Drock]

Whenever searching for parts you'll have to call it a 1984 K5 or K30

 

[twisted60]

Welcome from South Florida. AK is a very beautiful place, been there a few times.

 

[cucvrus]

What is the correct part number for the steering box, and what other vehicles can I use as a donor?

I don't have the exchange manual at my fingertips. But many steering boxes will fit as long as they are 4 X 4 from the same time period. I have had luck getting rebuilt steering boxes from Autozone and NAPA. I think less then $200. exchange and you can have a warranted for life rebuilt steering box. I put a few on snow plow trucks. Never had to replace it a second time. Good luck. I have a few still on the frames. But I would opt to get a reamed one before using a take off. Not worth the effort and getting it realigned is not worth the risk. Good Luck.

 

[TrappHouse]

Thanks Twisted! I spent 6 years on the panhandle of Florida. Got tired of the heat, moved up here and never looked back.

CUCVRUS: I was looking at the NAPA ones along with sending mine in for a rebuild from a "steering specialist." I am still figuring out what is "military" and what is normal civy gear. The take off was a temp solution. Get something from our junkyard here while I get the OEM box rebuilt. The biggest concern I have is with the 37" tires. I want to keep any and all heavy duty parts on it.

Dependable: I haven't verified the starter yet, but I do know the batteries are good. There is not enough time in the day, and now with daylight savings its getting dark before 1800...

 

[cucvrus]

Nothing special about a steering box on a CUCV. They are the same as the civilian K10-30 trucks,K5 and Suburban's. All the same ingredients. Nothing special.

 

[TrappHouse]

Here are some of the pictures...

 

[TrappHouse]

 

[TrappHouse]

 

[Drock]

Sense your running the 37" tires and will be replacing the steering box. You might consider a steering box brace from Offroad Design, here's a link...........http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

 

[dougco1]

It looks like PO was messing with the wiring quite a lot. What is the electrical outlet "drivers side" fender well for?

 

[dependable]

Oil pans on motor and tranny from the arctic kit. Handy where you are. There is an recent thread about someone putting one on a 1031.

 

[Chaski]

Interesting rig. Looks like someone swapped 3/4 ton axles under it. 14 bolt /10.5” full float in the rear and a 10 bolt in the front. This would be the exact axle combo out of a GMC K2500 from the mid 1980’s.

The steering box brace is an excellent idea.

Something else I will toss out there is your front driveshaft angle looks a little weird, like the pinion might be tilted up a bit with shims between your pads on your axle and your leaf springs. If someone shimmed it up it would toss your caster way out of whack and might be adding to your steering woes.

 

[TrappHouse]

The steering box brace is on the list. The electrical outlets are the distribution panel for the oil pan heater, transmission heater, and j/w heater. I'll look into the driveshaft angles, good observation.

So, not the original axles? Interesting...

 

[TrappHouse]

Bwahahahaha! How many things do you see wrong?

 

[TrappHouse]

Renewed the steering box on mine... what a difference. While trying to fix a leak on the slip yoke, found the yoke out of the rear-end was broken. Got another on order. I ended up getting the U-bolt style. Has anyone done that with pulling apart the whole chunk to get the proper preload? I've watched the youtube videos and it seems like kinda shadetree to re-align the nut. Since I am putting a new on one, I may just pull apart the rearend anyway. After fixing the yoke, I will order the steering brace and get that installed

The starting issues are weird.. As you can see, the starter is jimmy rigged. Sometimes its cranks over with no issues (even with the block heater off,) other times it is still labored and slow. I found out it has the "doghead starter relay mod" that was going to be my next attempt at the starter issues.

Figured out the front end is a Dana 44, the rear is the gm 14 bolt full float. The slip yoke leak was actually the yoke itself, not the seal. Put some silicone on it until I feel like fixing it the right way.

More stuff on the list includes renewing the sway bar bushings, and identifying what I need to finish the arctic kit. Any source on the heaters?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I am still figuring out what is "military" and what is normal civy gear.

In a stock CUCV, the military parts are:

1. The starting system and the GP system, with their associated wiring. (They are a 24v/12v hybrid. This is the only 24v in the vehicle.)
2. The Blackout Lights.
3. The (useless) engine diagnostic system.
4. The bumpers and brush guard.
5. Possible antenna mounts.
6. Possible gun racks/holders.
7. Possible decontamination kit on the passenger side floor.

I think that's it. (Did I miss anything, folks?)

Other than that, it's just a standard 1984 Chevy. Yes, even if it's a 1985 or 86, your parts are for an 84. The Army wanted their supply chain to be standardized.


If you decide to go back to 24v, post a new thread. Lots of folks here will be happy to help.

 

[Chaski]

For swapping the yoke a dial type inch pound torque wrench is best to use. You can do a before and after preload measurement.