MEP 002a wont shutdown with main switch

[Faw]

Just like title says. Starts ok shutting down with switch does not work. Any recommendations on what to check or should I just buy a replacement switch?

Other than ebay (which sells them at $260) is there another source for them?

 

[Kenny0]

First off, have you down loaded the tech manuals for this generator? What is the history, did you just get it and always been like this. Does it generate okay when running? Any trouble shooting have you done? The more info you can provide will help the good folks here come up with a solution. How do you shut it off? Is the shut off solenoid sticky or adjusted correctly?

 

[jamawieb]

If you look on the side of the generator where you check the oil. Mounted on the side of the motor will be a solenoid with a boot and arm connected to a lever, the lever is what shuts the unit down. Have you checked to make sure the solenoid is still connected to the lever??? They sometimes come loose.

 

[Faw]

We have had it for over 6 years and it worked well. Specially now with all this hurricane Maria mess (I live in Puerto Rico). Some time ago it started doing that. My father turns it of manually with that lever you mentioned. Ill check the solenoid tomorrow.

With all this mess I fell in love again with these never-die generators. I need to get one of those 802a. Maybe also another 002a.

 

[Guyfang]

Thank you kennyO!

FAW, you tie our hands when you don't give us more info.

i doubt it's the switch. Like jamawieb told you, first look at the cut off solinoid. It should move freely. The ball joints should also move. They need oil every now and then.

 

[Faw]

I cant give you more info until I check things. I'll check the solenoid and tell you guys what I find. Its really not a big issue just an annoyance at the moment. Thanks for the help.

 

[Faw]

Ok. Turned it on and off a few times to see what is going on. Switch and solenoid seem to work ok. When it turns on the piston(?) goes up. When the switch is set to off it goes down.

I guess it should go down enough to push the lever that turns the genset off but it does not. I took a photo maybe something fell off.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/webPyrhDp4CLPO3D2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XnMpEJOgoWYQrVPx1

 

[Chainbreaker]

In reviewing the pictures you took it appears as if the ball in the ball joint assembly is protruding out of the socket. That just might be allowing enough slack to not cause it to shut off the fuel flow in the injection pump. Its probably worn, you might be able to temporarily pop the ball back into socket. If that fixes it you need a new ball joint assembly to replace the worn one. They are pretty scarce so not sure where to locate one, but using the numbers below you might come across a replacement if you Google it.

Using the -24P manual (MEP-002a parts TM's here), take a look on pg 162/163 item #13.

Reference pn's: 49 13 PAFZZ PAFZZ XB--- 2990-01-049-0578 BALL JOINT EA 1
LK859 01843
150-0939 44940

 

[Chainbreaker]

It that turns out to be the problem here is a link that has an all metal joint that "might" work. Note their comment:

"New all metal design replaces old plastic style. 150-2911 Supersedes/Replaces 150-0974. In some cases this joint can be used in place of the 150-0939 "plastic" ball joint. Identical threads but the range of motion is not as wide."

 

[Faw]

Ok i pushed the ball joint in but still nothing. The distance between the extended piston and the lever that shuts things down is too long when it is running. I guess about an inch?

Is getting dark here so tomorrow I'll try to take a picture of it when it is running with switch on and off. Maybe there is something else I can do.

 

[justacitizen]

deleted due to problem solved

 

[Kenny0]

In reviewing the pictures you took it appears as if the ball in the ball joint assembly is protruding out of the socket. That just might be allowing enough slack to not cause it to shut off the fuel flow in the injection pump. Its probably worn, you might be able to temporarily pop the ball back into socket. If that fixes it you need a new ball joint assembly to replace the worn one. They are pretty scarce so not sure where to locate one, but using the numbers below you might come across a replacement if you Google it.

Using the -24P manual (MEP-002a parts TM's here), take a look on pg 162/163 item #13.

Reference pn's: 49 13 PAFZZ PAFZZ XB--- 2990-01-049-0578 BALL JOINT EA 1
LK859 01843
150-0939 44940

Here's a link for ball joints. Lots of sizes and both right hand and left hand threads http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Rod-Ends
This place has a wide variety of stuff

 

[1800 Diesel]

We have had it for over 6 years and it worked well. Specially now with all this hurricane Maria mess (I live in Puerto Rico). Some time ago it started doing that. My father turns it of manually with that lever you mentioned. Ill check the solenoid tomorrow.

With all this mess I fell in love again with these never-die generators. I need to get one of those 802a. Maybe also another 002a.

If the solenoid is still connected mechanically, it sounds like it may be stuck in the run position which is up. This takes 24 volts to pull it up and hold it in the run position but I guess it's possible if it's "froze up" in the run position whether it's getting the voltage or not.

BTW, I'm sure there's a few of us here with an extra MEP-002A or 003A we could offer at a fair price. The problem is getting it shipped over the pond...

 

[jamawieb]

Your solenoid is missing the adjustment bolt. Basically its a bolt that is threaded into the rod that your boot is covering and held in place with a nut so it won't back out. Take the solenoid out and find a bolt to thread into the rod and you'll be set. The bolt (adjuster) is about an inch long and I believe a 7/16.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Ok i pushed the ball joint in but still nothing. The distance between the extended piston and the lever that shuts things down is too long when it is running. I guess about an inch?

Is getting dark here so tomorrow I'll try to take a picture of it when it is running with switch on and off. Maybe there is something else I can do.

Check the gap between the knurled knob at the bottom of the solenoid and the IP linkage. IDK what the TM says but most of mine seem to be about 1/16-3/32". If that gap is too big, it may not be pushing the fuel linkage down enough to shut it off. Going by memory here so I may be off on my description. Been a long day...

Edit--I couldn't tell in the pictures but if Jamaweib sees the adjusting screw missing then that would explain the excessive gap. Get a another screw and a jam nut and then adjust it to the proper gap and you should be good-to-go...

 

[Guyfang]

That's what I thought I saw and posted. The adjustment screw seems to be missing. And I posted it. But my post isn't here. Strange, strange. Anyway, I also said to look for it, as it can't be far away, if the gen set has been running well all these years. This is a rather common problem due to vibrations.

 

[Faw]

Your solenoid is missing the adjustment bolt. Basically its a bolt that is threaded into the rod that your boot is covering and held in place with a nut so it won't back out. Take the solenoid out and find a bolt to thread into the rod and you'll be set. The bolt (adjuster) is about an inch long and I believe a 7/16.

Ok, that was it. I imagined something fell off. Added a bolt and it now turns off with the switch as it should.

Now the last thing I need is a new emergency shutoff switch. The one I have sometimes pops off with the vibration and turns it off. I MacGyvered something to keep it down for now.

Was looking on green mountain generators and found this:

https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep-002a-mep-003a-circuit-breaker-nsn-5925-01-070-4487/

Is this a replacement for that switch? Is there other place to get it?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Guyfang]

Faw,

its not a switch. It's a circuit breaker. If it pops out sometimes, you may have an electrical problem in the set. You need to find out. If I replaced more then 3-4 of those CB's in my life, that's a lot. They don't often go bad. And if they do, normally it's the button breaking off. Any CB that fits in the hole, and is of the same amperage as the normal one, is good. But I would not put one in that has a higher rating. Burnt wires stink.

 

[Faw]

Faw,

its not a switch. It's a circuit breaker. If it pops out sometimes, you may have an electrical problem in the set. You need to find out. If I replaced more then 3-4 of those CB's in my life, that's a lot. They don't often go bad. And if they do, normally it's the button breaking off. Any CB that fits in the hole, and is of the same amperage as the normal one, is good. But I would not put one in that has a higher rating. Burnt wires stink.

Ok I might have explained things wrong. It does not just pops out. It starts coming out slowly with the vibration until it is out enough to starts to turn off.. It sounds as if it was running out of fuel and I push it back into place and it keeps running. So I dont think its electrical just a bad circuit breaker.

So that link would be the correct replacement part?

 

[Guyfang]

Have you downloaded the parts manual?
Have you looked to see what the orginal CB has for a part number and NSN?
Have you compared the part number and NSN to the one in GM?
Have you put a want add here in SS for the CB?
Thats me! Nothing but questions.
I will assume no, four times.
I will also assume the CB in GM will fit, but would look to make sure.
I would put an add here in SS. There are people who might be able to help you. And if not, then maybe flee bay or GM.