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Cargo Bed Dump Conversion Hinge Designs

ballencd

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Columbus, NC
Here is the hinge setup I used on mine. The pins are 1", I believe, but my bed has been cut down almost 3'. I built a sub-frame of 2 X 2 x .25 square tubing and bolted it to the factory bed mounting bolts. I did remove the wood rail caps. I can pull the bolts and unplug my power and remove the entire bed, lift and pump. Currently the pump is 12V but i'm having issues with it and think I'm going either to 24V pump or PTO driven pump.
 

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74M35A2

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Wow, another nice job. Thanks.

I'm liking this sub-frame with integrated hinge design more and more. Since I want to raise the bed anyway, this may be the new direction...

I'll probably do it with the hinge cross-bar and long alignment rod through the hinge holes for initial setup and welding, then chop both out so they are then individual to allow clearance for the rear winch cable.
 

74M35A2

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That hinge setup is pretty much exactly what you posted earlier.

Like most here, im also a fan of overbuilding things. Especially things that will take a lot of weight. I think pretty much any idea posted here would work if executed properly.
Ha ha ha. You said Executed. Yea. That was cool....

ECC.jpg
 
161
2
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Location
Argyle MI
Wow, another nice job. Thanks.

I'm liking this sub-frame with integrated hinge design more and more. Since I want to raise the bed anyway, this may be the new direction...

I'll probably do it with the hinge cross-bar and long alignment rod through the hinge holes for initial setup and welding, then chop both out so they are then individual to allow clearance for the rear winch cable.
Up side to mine at least. It matched the bottom of the bed almost perfectly with the front wheel wells. Also some pics of it at full dump. Also the reengineering of a couple cross members i had to do. I also boxed the frame channels of the bed with 1/4 plate. Just for added strength. Some pictures of my controls as well.


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tobyS

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IN
FBWT that came together really nice. Looks like your hauling and dumping quite a load. Boxing the frame has to help. I need low for my front end loader to get over too. Good job ....and safe hauling.
 

Buffalobwana

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I’m sure you mentioned but what model of scissor lift did you use? Or did you scrap one from a truck.

You did a great job, simple controls, good solid frame, nice high dump angle for when you need it (parked nose down hill or wet sticky material).

Well done.
 

Buffalobwana

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I'll probably do it with the hinge cross-bar and long alignment rod through the hinge holes for initial setup and welding, then chop both out so they are then individual to allow clearance for the rear winch cable.
You seem to be more focused on winch cable routing than maintaining dump bed design. Why hack up a good design over a 1/2” cable that is easily routed out of the way.

You can mount a 10” fairlead somewhere under the bed to slightly alter the routing of your winch cable. That way, you are not hacking up a perfectly good dump bed design.

When it comes time for the winch, Ill draw you a picture.
 

Jbulach

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Just proper planning. I actually think most OEM dump setups do not have any cross mechanisms on the hinges.
I believe you are correct, the only reason I did mine that way, was ease of removing/installing the bed. The center 2’ or so of the tube is not connected to the truck, so if it would get bent somehow, I can do as you suggested and cut it out.
 
161
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Location
Argyle MI
I’m sure you mentioned but what model of scissor lift did you use? Or did you scrap one from a truck.

You did a great job, simple controls, good solid frame, nice high dump angle for when you need it (parked nose down hill or wet sticky material).

Well done.
Its an omaha standard model 629. I bought it on a local online auction site. It had been removed from an old grain truck from the 70s im guessing. They still make it today its a model 630 now. //cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a2bf6da99e62/8801374928926.pdf


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Jbulach

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For you lift kit, I would make a tube frame welded to the bed for strength and to cut down on torsional flex of the bed instead of the truck. Maybe even use it as an additional hydraulic reservoir that I believe you will need.
Figure out a way to make the winch pay off the bottom, so when not used for extraction, you can feed the cable forward off the top, and around a pulley mounted in the front, middle of the bed floor/headwall. Then you can use your winch to drag junk/treasure up into your bed while dumped.
IMG_3437.jpgIMG_0114.jpg
 

74M35A2

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Actually the plan is nearly that exactly, trap door on bed floor to feed cable up through bed floor, over cab roof, and is the tie-back (stay?) for the front A frame crane. I just did temovable 10’ extension tubes onto the medium tow bar. Front winch will hoist the load.
 

Buffalobwana

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Didn’t I text you that idea? I think I did. I want partial credit. My initials welded on it somewhere.

I am am a huge fan of using pulleys to load meat.

First exposure was in Tanzania in a Land Cruiser. Pulley Or idler I guess, welded permanently into grill guard for winch to wrap cable over truck.

A piece a schedule 40 pipe with a 6” pulley mounted to it fit nicely in a receiver mounted on the roll bar so the cable would clear the cab. Loaded two Buffalo into a Land Cruiser pickup, one on top of the other.

I was sold. On both the Land Cruisers that we can’t get here and the pulley system.

It’s nothing original, but I have been using it on my Polaris for years. Winch cable goes through an idler mounted on top rail of grill guard. Then through another one on back rail of roll bar.

Aoudad, Mule Deer, Whitetail, even a Red Stag load up without complaint.
 
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