smokem joe
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Rock auto had them for $1.84 specifically for the application. Not cheap, but should last awhile
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Going through auction 803a
- Thread starter smokem joe
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- 16,765
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
ALLWAYS, look inside the set. All over. In the rear, under the main gen, is "the land of lost stuff" of generator land. Whenever I needed just ONE more nut and bolt, I stuck my magnet in there to get a few.
Ok, think about this. If you had not found the plug, and didn't remove the wire harnes, how could you jump the system? Simple, ( I hope I and not talking out my buttocks) you find the wire that hooks to the S-17 wire and trace it back to the plug. Then you trace the wire that was installed on the S-17 switch, and trace it back to the plug. Jump those two pins, and I think it would have started.
smokem joe
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You got that right! I thoroughly checked the rest of the unit for anything else. And there were some screws and nuts in it of course.
If I didn't remove that harness I was going to remove the section from the stops switch and leave the rest there. Removing that would have been easier than figuring out which pins to jump! That plug had about 30 pins in it. My biggest concern was any other modifications I couldn't see in the wiring. What you said and needing a different model number made me feel better about the rest of the harness before you talked to the man in the know.
smokem joe
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Unit was fired up and ran for an hour. It is producing voltage on a handheld meter, but I didn't put any sort of load on it. Next is a longer load test and stepping up the load. Ran just over 180 with 40psi on the oil according to the gauges.
Here is an image of the wiring diagram for the monitoring system. They attached it to the lid that covers the gauges. If you wanted to keep the monitoring harness in place, just jump pin G to H for the Emergency Stop and then O to P for the DC amp gauge to work correctly. I went ahead and removed the complete harness which took about 20 minutes to take it out and replace the old diagnostic port. The diagnostic port was nicely wrapped in plastic, tucked in the back with the cap. So it was easy to put back. They also do not cut any wires, they put a small bolt through the connectors and then wrap them in heat shrink. Really easy to put back to stock.
- 16,765
- 24,069
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
The only sign that is left over is, the hole in the control cube, for the wire harnes to the aux fuel tank.
smokem joe
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This ins't on my unit. I looked everywhere for something like this. It would have made it a little easier!View attachment 713230
Here is an image of the wiring diagram for the monitoring system. They attached it to the lid that covers the gauges. If you wanted to keep the monitoring harness in place, just jump pin G to H for the Emergency Stop and then O to P for the DC amp gauge to work correctly. I went ahead and removed the complete harness which took about 20 minutes to take it out and replace the old diagnostic port. The diagnostic port was nicely wrapped in plastic, tucked in the back with the cap. So it was easy to put back. They also do not cut any wires, they put a small bolt through the connectors and then wrap them in heat shrink. Really easy to put back to stock.
smokem joe
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And the thermostat still glued on the fuel pump. I unplugged it, but left it there for fear of damaging the pump trying to get it off. Doesn't hurt anything either way though.
smokem joe
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Well today I went ahead and did the ultimate well nut repair to both well nuts. If I'm going to depend on this thing I'd like to know everything that could go wrong has been taken care of. I put aluminum screen inside the 3 mesh areas to hopefully help keep critters and bugs out once it is in its spot it will be set up for home backup. All the housing was reinstalled and it's all back in one piece ready for the extended run load test.
smokem joe
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I'm thinking a cheap load bank would be a couple hot water heating elements in a 55 gallon drum with the top cut off. Anyone done this for testing purposes? I'd run them through a 2 pole switch to be able to turn each off and on and that would let me check amperage with a meter while it is running. Should I run a ground and neutral to the metal on the elements? Normally they would just be grounded in a home application. I'll ground the 803 and make sure the neutral bond is in place. Should be safe enough as long as some water goes out and new cold water comes in I would think.
Cheapest load bank would be an electric range. Won't take up more space than the 55 gal drum you are considering.
I made a fairly compact load bank using dryer elements and a 10" condenser fan. It wasn't as cheap or easy to build as a used electric range off of CL though.
I made a fairly compact load bank using dryer elements and a 10" condenser fan. It wasn't as cheap or easy to build as a used electric range off of CL though.
m32825
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I second this suggestion. Mine cost $50, but I bet you could find one for free if you watched CL long enough. When I turn everything on it pulls 60A. Once it gets good and hot some of the elements will cycle, making the testing a little more like the real world.
-- Carl
smokem joe
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I do have an oven coming in a month or so but wanting to load test this before it gets to the nasty January cold. I have empty barrels and water heating elements, so that is why I was thinking of doing it that way. The plus side to a drum is I can pick it up and store it in the rafters out of the way in between uses. I can't do that with a stove. I'd be interested in the dryer element version though!
uniquify
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I started with a 55 gal barrel and a variety of water heater elements. It worked ok, but was a hassle to fill, to drain, and to store. Water and electricity seemed like an accident waiting to happen, so I've been looking for a smaller, safer alternative.
I recently switched to a pair of 240v electric heaters that my local Northern Tool had on sale. Each one has a built-in fan and 2 different heat settings. The smaller one has 3kw/5kw, and the larger one has 5kw/7.5w. They're meant to be hardwired, but I put a 30a dryer pigtail on the small one and a 50a oven pigtail on the big one. They each have a built-in thermostat (without temperature labels) that will allow them to cycle on and off.
The smaller one is plenty for 802. I can hook them both up to my 803 to give it a workout. Between them I have a variety of load sizes: 3kw, 5kw, 7.5kw, 8kw, 10kw, 12.5kw.
When I include the price of the pigtails, I've got $100 into the small one and $150 into the large one. But I also have heaters that can be used to keep my garage and shop warm, which is nice on days like this when it's -15°F.
I recently switched to a pair of 240v electric heaters that my local Northern Tool had on sale. Each one has a built-in fan and 2 different heat settings. The smaller one has 3kw/5kw, and the larger one has 5kw/7.5w. They're meant to be hardwired, but I put a 30a dryer pigtail on the small one and a 50a oven pigtail on the big one. They each have a built-in thermostat (without temperature labels) that will allow them to cycle on and off.
The smaller one is plenty for 802. I can hook them both up to my 803 to give it a workout. Between them I have a variety of load sizes: 3kw, 5kw, 7.5kw, 8kw, 10kw, 12.5kw.
When I include the price of the pigtails, I've got $100 into the small one and $150 into the large one. But I also have heaters that can be used to keep my garage and shop warm, which is nice on days like this when it's -15°F.
Here is my thread on the dryer elements version I built.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163190-Homemade-Load-Bank
smokem joe
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Pretty fancy! You could probably sell those.
smokem joe
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That's actually not a bad idea! Big box store near me stocks them as well and a little cheaper than Northern tool with shipping. Couple of the small ones with some halogen lights should create plenty of load. And it would warm the shop up in the meantime! Woodburner takes awhile to heat it on these cold days.
Those ProFusion heaters at Northern look like a good way to go. If I were doing it over I would order one of the 5000 watt and one of the 7500 watt heaters and hook them together. Both have two load settings. Looks like about $250 for the two heaters shipped to my place.
smokem joe
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If you have a Menards near you they have they same brand and a tad bit cheaper. I think I will stop and get a couple on my way home tomorrow. uniquify had a good idea as they will heat as well as shed the load.
Just to give everyone fair warning, I bought 4 generators from GL in December and the ads stated motor turns. I get them in and 2 of them are hard to turn over by hand. I hit the dead crank on one of the 2 hard turners and it sounds weird so I stop because I bet water got into the exhaust and rusted. So it looks like I'll be taking the head off of 2 out of 4. There is a lot of junk coming through GL right now so be careful.