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Outdoor Trailer Protection/storage

bikeman

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Ft. Bragg, NC
So, I've moved into my new place, and I have finally relocated almost my entire collection in one spot. However, it's now apparent that I need to do a little more protection for prevention of rust/damage. I have 2x M100s and a Pioneer that I am planning on putting tarps on. The M100s I plan on putting a sheet of plywood on top, and then the tarp. The Pioneer I was just going to stretch a tarp over. This will probably be for a year or two until I get either some metal garage or a second building.

Right now I am planning on securing the tarps to/under the trailers, not to the ground or anything.

Looking for recommendations or tips/tricks you all may have for me.
 

Tinwoodsman

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Comfort, Texas
Prior to installing the tarps I would get some foam pipe insulation tubes at the Home Depot or any hardware store. Get the largest size and cut sections to use at the corners or any other areas that will rub against the tarps. They will last a lot longer. Good luck.
 

bikeman

Well-known member
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Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
Prior to installing the tarps I would get some foam pipe insulation tubes at the Home Depot or any hardware store. Get the largest size and cut sections to use at the corners or any other areas that will rub against the tarps. They will last a lot longer. Good luck.

I would not have thought of that. Thank you!
 

just me

Member
322
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Location
phoenix,az
Use canvas tarps, not poly. The canvas tarp can breathe and won't promote condensation. The Bluebiquitous poly tarp creates it own little rain forest underneath.
 

dmetalmiki

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Location
London England
I clean thoroughly everything, and spray the total undersides with a water based protective coating (Deep blue/black)that turns rust (If any!) solid..and protects against the elements. The wrecker fire truck and 432 are treated thus and have no rot. I Re-do them every three years.
You should find an equivalent product over there.
 

bikeman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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501
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Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
I clean thoroughly everything, and spray the total undersides with a water based protective coating (Deep blue/black)that turns rust (If any!) solid..and protects against the elements. The wrecker fire truck and 432 are treated thus and have no rot. I Re-do them every three years.
You should find an equivalent product over there.
Honestly, not following. I understand spraying with a protective coating, but not the type you're referring to.
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
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Gravette Ar.
Instead of flat plywood , take a 2x6 or 2x8 and rip them on each side at an angle then cut your plywood in half. Make it more like a roof.
 

bikeman

Well-known member
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Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
Instead of flat plywood , take a 2x6 or 2x8 and rip them on each side at an angle then cut your plywood in half. Make it more like a roof.
They are not going to be on truly level (just generally level) ground, would this impact that at all?
 

M813rc

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Near Austin, Texas
He's saying to put a peak in the middle of the trailer plywood so the water runs off better than it would on flat plywood, where it could tend to pool. Generally level ground should be fine, you just want to avoid having the plywood get horizontal again.

Also, keep your tarps as tight as possible, this lets the water run off better, prevents pooling dips (not really a problem if laid over plywood), and keeps the tarp from flapping in the wind and wearing on your paint.

Cheers
 

aleigh

Well-known member
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52
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
You might want to look up into maintenance shelters. Or the base-x tents, the sides come off. I can get a jeep in a model 203. They all show up surplus from time to time and the added benefit you can work on the stuff inside or heat them if you get inclined.
 

Tinstar

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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Something cheaper than building something right away would be shipping containers.
You can get two CUCVs inside a 40 footer no sweat. Tight but possible.
Not sure about number of trailers.

That way, no worry about mice, moisture, storms, vandals, etc.
I have two stored inside a 40’ Hi-Cube (9’ 6” tall inside) and no worries.
 

DeadParrot

Active member
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28
Location
oklahoma city, ok
Before buying anything, price the materials for a pole barn type structure. By the time you buy tarps, plywood, pipe insulation, etc, the total might not be too far from the cost of a pole barn. You could just put a roof on it for now and add the walls later.
 

porkysplace

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mid- michigan
Something cheaper than building something right away would be shipping containers.
You can get two CUCVs inside a 40 footer no sweat. Tight but possible.
Not sure about number of trailers.

That way, no worry about mice, moisture, storms, vandals, etc.
I have two stored inside a 40’ Hi-Cube (9’ 6” tall inside) and no worries.
Did you put vents in the containers ?
The asphalt company my brother worked for bought a couple a few years ago , loaded them up with their Bobcats and attachments and in the spring everything was covered in mold . Putting vents in solved that problem .
But I agree you can't build a decent shed as cheap as you can get containers
 

bikeman

Well-known member
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Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
I've thought about containers. I do have an area where I could store a couple, but I'm not enthusiastic about having them on my property.

Pole barn is on the list. Well, really a shop is on the list, but I'm not there yet. I'm just thinking of some basics for now. A TMSS-Medium with it's life support trailer would be a really nice solution. Just don't want to drop that much coin yet!
 

swbradley1

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Location
Dayton, OH
Before buying anything, price the materials for a pole barn type structure. By the time you buy tarps, plywood, pipe insulation, etc, the total might not be too far from the cost of a pole barn. You could just put a roof on it for now and add the walls later.

I can buy a lot of tarps for the $24,000 I spent on my pole barn.
 

Tinstar

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Edmond, Oklahoma
You can resale the containers when your done.

Yes, the containers are vented.
No moisture issues.
 
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