MEP002a firing on one cylinder - question

[Hectorsosa]

Hello everybody!

I have gone to a schedule of running the unit quarterly for 2-3 hours versus running the unit monthly for 45 minutes, per recommendation of several folks on this page. A couple weeks ago was my first time firing up in temps well below freezing (9 degrees that morning) and after 45 seconds of preheat it fired up, but only ran on one cylinder. I quickly shut it down, gave it another 30 seconds of preheat, and still one cylinder. I let it run for a bit (less than a minute) and the second cylinder made a couple quick appearances and finally joined the game.

I know if I disconnect the glow plugs I can check resistance and spot one going bad or failed, which I plan on doing this weekend. Here's the question - is there anything else I should be looking for? Could it be an injector, or am I overthinking it prior to checking the simple stuff?

thanks

 

[jamawieb]

Glow plug for sure. The 002a has to have the glow plug working in cold weather because it is not a direct injection engine. It injects into the head and then there is a small hole in the head that lets the fuel into the cylinder. Diesels must have heat and compression to cause the fuel to ignite. So until the cylinder gets hot enough, it won't ignite.

 

[justacitizen]

be real careful when you remove the old glow plug,they have a nasty habit of twisting off in the head.

 

[Hectorsosa]

any recommendations on avoiding that, other than "don't use the big wrench"? Short of a power outage I don't need to run the gennie for another couple months... is penetrating oil a wise thought?

 

[jamawieb]

Yes, use a lot of penetrating oil and heat! Heat around the glow plug to expand the threads, then spray with oil. Then every once in a while heat and try to turn back and forth with a wrench.

 

[justacitizen]

it might be stuck and it might not be stuck. if the last owner used anti seize on the threads it will come right out,just gently give it a try first and if it is tight just get it to wiggle a little and apply penetrating oil and wiggle some more. take your time. when you put in the new one apply anti seize and screw it in then back it out and reapply anti seize again and install.

 

[ageregunner]

When I changed my glow plugs, I gave a heavy dose of Kroil and let it soak for a couple of hours. I then loosened until it tightened up, then I turned it back in. More Kroil, and I repeated the in and out until they glow plugs came all the way out. Of course the new plugs got a coating of never sieze on the threads.

 

[Guyfang]

When I changed my glow plugs, I gave a heavy dose of Kroil and let it soak for a couple of hours. I then loosened until it tightened up, then I turned it back in. More Kroil, and I repeated the in and out until they glow plugs came all the way out. Of course the new plugs got a coating of never sieze on the threads.

Everyones suggestions are spot on, but the last sentence here, is what is supposed to make the difference between you and "The last guy".

 

[Farmitall]

[/COLOR]


Everyones suggestions are spot on, but the last sentence here, is what is supposed to make the difference between you and "The last guy".

Absolutely. Anti seize is a must on this type of stuff.

I keep four containers of it around so that I am never without it. There's one in my tractor toolbox, one on the shelf and 1 each in my large tool box and portable box.

For lack of a dab of anti seize on the threads by a previous "mechanic", I once spent the better part of a day trying to get the rusted, rounded off and disintegrated spark plugs out of a rust bucket Chevy Blazer 350 engine.

Unquestionably the most ball busting tune up I ever did.

 

[glcaines]

For anti-seize, I use Permatex brand with copper. The presence of copper ascertains that you have a good electrical connection to ground.

 

[Chainbreaker]

If I know I will be pulling Glow Plugs I run engine to get up to temp (assuming operable engine) and then a few minutes after shut down while still warm (not smoking hot), I spray glow plug base with PB Blaster. It seems to penetrate better that way. I let it sit overnight and repeat next day, or days, if needed. If glow plug does not break free I repeat process. So far no broken GP's. I also use the copper anti-seize when reassembling.

Also, make sure you have new GP washers. Be aware that the old washers may stick in head and can be tricky to get out. I used one of those metal paint can openers that looks like a beer bottle opener on one end with a flat J-type hook on other. I had to file the hook width down a bit so it was small enough to fit within copper washer I.D. hole. If you work it just right it will catch inner lip of GP washer and pull it out when its jammed in hole. However some have reported that they left stuck washer alone, assuming it didn't deform when removing GP and torqued new GP to proper spec and it sealed OK. However, since the work of pulling/replacing is 99% of the work I normally use new glow plug & washer especially if any signs of GP element starting to swell or GP threads/body are rusted, unless GP checks out OK and is low hours. I've read about the headaches of older swollen glow plug elements breaking off or jamming and I don't want any part of that!

 

[justacitizen]

i always figured if i had a stuck glow plug that i couldn't coax out i would just abandon the plugs and install a thermostart flame starter and use one of the glow plug wires to activate it. i have some in other equipment and they work like a charm.

 

[Chainbreaker]

i always figured if i had a stuck glow plug that i couldn't coax out i would just abandon the plugs and install a thermostart flame starter and use one of the glow plug wires to activate it. i have some in other equipment and they work like a charm.

"Thermostart flame starter" that was a new one for me! Had to do some Googling but got a hit and found some info:

http://www.redpowermagazine.com/for...-start-thermostart-flame-plug-piping-hook-up/

& this one (2nd post down): http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/53752-thermostart-454/

Looks like one of those could be adapted to use the same hole used for the intake heaters on -002a/-003a gensets with some added plumbing for fuel. That's assuming one's glow plugs were truly frozen in place! Might be easier to use the flame start method rather than resorting to removing head and having to have them extracted by a machinist. Not sure where you would find them for sale though. None-the-less, an interesting application!

 

[justacitizen]

"Thermostart flame starter" that was a new one for me! Had to do some Googling but got a hit and found some info:

http://www.redpowermagazine.com/for...-start-thermostart-flame-plug-piping-hook-up/

& this one (2nd post down): http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/53752-thermostart-454/

Looks like one of those could be adapted to use the same hole used for the intake heaters on -002a/-003a gensets with some added plumbing for fuel. That's assuming one's glow plugs were truly frozen in place! Might be easier to use the flame start method rather than resorting to removing head and having to have them extracted by a machinist. Not sure where you would find them for sale though. None-the-less, an interesting application![/QUOTE

http://www.iskra-agv.cz/us/cl60.htm

https://www.amazon.com/Perkins-Intake-Heater-Thermostart-2666103/dp/B00D6OFC4G

pretty cheap alternative. they come in 12 and 24 volt so shop accordingly. about any Perkins dealer should have them in stock or any New Holland or JCB dealers to. i am not sure about the Amazon plug.