It would be worth a real rebuild and kept in a dry home. I wonder if military ever used an F600 to pattern a paint scheme from. Probably just OD. I bought (3) M105's when they were around and the tires had nubs to give it new 9.00 NDCC shoes. I did a valve job, carb build and dual exhaust clear out the rear (barely hear it run) (now needs replaced 20 years later) but have never replaced points with electronic...on the bucket list.
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Winch/crane on M35A3
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Does it have the 362c.i. in it ?
gimpyrobb
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The A3s are (no offense intended) ugly enough as-is, I would try to model the hard top off of a 5ton franken-top that has the r.o.p.s. system incorporated. Plenty of strength to stand on one of those.
Chris...I can't do the Frankentop...LOL. I can't do it. You are right for a work platform but ugly + somewhat ugly (might =) not good. But the way it is made may be worth some copy. It's square tube and plate isn't it?
PP, I always thought the boomtruck engine was the 391 and was mainly starved of fuel and air with a 2 barrel to stay a low rpm engine. I thought it was considered an "industrial" engine (F600 and 700). Wasn't there also a 361 just like it, hard to tell apart from the 391?
PP, I always thought the boomtruck engine was the 391 and was mainly starved of fuel and air with a 2 barrel to stay a low rpm engine. I thought it was considered an "industrial" engine (F600 and 700). Wasn't there also a 361 just like it, hard to tell apart from the 391?
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Yeah they were 361's , been awhile , they also 391's . If they don't have the original valve covers with the sticker it can be a pain to tell witch are witch. Both were good on fuel (for a truck)
The main difference is the stroke;
The 361cid has a 4.05" bore and3.79" stroke.
The 391cid has a 4.05"bore and 3.50" stroke.
gimpyrobb
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More good info here:
http://www.iadc.org/wp-content/uplo...ruck-Guidelines-initial-issue-march-20101.pdf
http://www.iadc.org/wp-content/uplo...ruck-Guidelines-initial-issue-march-20101.pdf
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(Reach + military 5t wrecker = m246/m819) = ( 
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Hi Toby
Good to see you have the nice boom truck. I did not remember seeing it when we visited you. Looks like it is all wheel drive also. I understand the up-front cost of a M543A2. I watched a guy use one to load a Detroit 6V-53 for me and told my son we will own one. About two years later I found one. Now we say every other truck here could go if we have to but the wrecker stays! Weird think is when I only had an M135 with a 10,000 pound winch we got lots of calls for stuck machinery. After I got the wrecker with much more capability we have not had nearly as many calls! Farmers though now have much bigger tractors like the big 4x4's than they did some years ago so they can do much more self-recovery and lots of smaller farmers have quit operations, renting to the bigger guys.
We put a 3 1/2x3 1/2" box iron extendable extra boom on the top of the wrecker boom, about 8' gained boom length when extended. We can slide it out to reach out more, capacity is about 1000 pounds. We bought a Warn winch which we mount on the wrecker boom top similar to what you have on your boom truck working through a pulley on the end of the extendable boom to lift and lower the loads along with the normal wrecker boom up and down. It is remotely controlled from the wrecker operator's position or by the person at the end of the extend boom. We do not take the original wrecker 1/2" cable out to the extension, use the Warn instead. I do not have any pictures of it right now.
Good to see you have the nice boom truck. I did not remember seeing it when we visited you. Looks like it is all wheel drive also. I understand the up-front cost of a M543A2. I watched a guy use one to load a Detroit 6V-53 for me and told my son we will own one. About two years later I found one. Now we say every other truck here could go if we have to but the wrecker stays! Weird think is when I only had an M135 with a 10,000 pound winch we got lots of calls for stuck machinery. After I got the wrecker with much more capability we have not had nearly as many calls! Farmers though now have much bigger tractors like the big 4x4's than they did some years ago so they can do much more self-recovery and lots of smaller farmers have quit operations, renting to the bigger guys.
We put a 3 1/2x3 1/2" box iron extendable extra boom on the top of the wrecker boom, about 8' gained boom length when extended. We can slide it out to reach out more, capacity is about 1000 pounds. We bought a Warn winch which we mount on the wrecker boom top similar to what you have on your boom truck working through a pulley on the end of the extendable boom to lift and lower the loads along with the normal wrecker boom up and down. It is remotely controlled from the wrecker operator's position or by the person at the end of the extend boom. We do not take the original wrecker 1/2" cable out to the extension, use the Warn instead. I do not have any pictures of it right now.
Hi Wally, The second winch sounds handy and electric was sure a lot easier to deal with than more hydraulics, I'm sure. Ones back is precious and any tool to stop the lifting has some value. With the short boom it would be even more important to have the second pull line. Do you have welding and a torch on it too?
I have a larger area north of the house with a lot of my stuff that you did not see as you came back the lane to the house. I have 35 years collecting industrial components, motors, controls and at one point had a 20,000 sf shop in North Manchester. Now I have land to spread out on but no shop (yet). Isn't that Murphy's Law?
I have a larger area north of the house with a lot of my stuff that you did not see as you came back the lane to the house. I have 35 years collecting industrial components, motors, controls and at one point had a 20,000 sf shop in North Manchester. Now I have land to spread out on but no shop (yet). Isn't that Murphy's Law?
gentrysgarage
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Nice topic, I too want my truck to be a do-all and a gin pole setup is under consideration for mine also. But first for mine is rear suspension and driving! So I got time to sit back and watch you build yours!
PS if you have time could I get your jackshafts installed ujoint to ujoint distance?
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=715224&d=1515723887&thumb=1
Thanks!
PS if you have time could I get your jackshafts installed ujoint to ujoint distance?
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=715224&d=1515723887&thumb=1
Thanks!
Hi GentrysGarage, I have an A3. Are you asking for the distance from the Allison tranny to the transfer case (jackshaft length?) on my model M35(A3)?
To all, I have edited out the "front" on the title to indicate that the winch and A-frame which is my project, is no longer designed for the front. Thanks for the guidance and pointing out that significant work would be required for the suspension. (edit...ha, ha jokes on me, can't edit out of the title)!!
I have to use what I have on hand to the fullest extent possible. MY original plan on this M35A3 was to make it a 4x4 and use an M105 bed. I still like that idea but would have to buy a trailer or bed. It breaks the budget. At one point I got a GL bid on an LMTV bed, pictured below.
Concept moves to using the LMTV bed, putting a stout scissor lift to make it dump (double acting), mount the winch on the front of the bed with suitable reinforcements and attach an A frame (removable) at the four corners of the LMTV bed where the bed has hole(s) for corner crane(s).
6x6 becomes a 4x4 and the rear wheels are about in the same position as the LMTV, by leaving the rear in it's present position in relation to the wheel (like an LMTV).... have good feng shuy so gimpy is not too offended. New shoes are probably on the table since I used them for the 929.
To all, I have edited out the "front" on the title to indicate that the winch and A-frame which is my project, is no longer designed for the front. Thanks for the guidance and pointing out that significant work would be required for the suspension. (edit...ha, ha jokes on me, can't edit out of the title)!!
I have to use what I have on hand to the fullest extent possible. MY original plan on this M35A3 was to make it a 4x4 and use an M105 bed. I still like that idea but would have to buy a trailer or bed. It breaks the budget. At one point I got a GL bid on an LMTV bed, pictured below.
Concept moves to using the LMTV bed, putting a stout scissor lift to make it dump (double acting), mount the winch on the front of the bed with suitable reinforcements and attach an A frame (removable) at the four corners of the LMTV bed where the bed has hole(s) for corner crane(s).
6x6 becomes a 4x4 and the rear wheels are about in the same position as the LMTV, by leaving the rear in it's present position in relation to the wheel (like an LMTV).... have good feng shuy so gimpy is not too offended. New shoes are probably on the table since I used them for the 929.
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gentrysgarage
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Hi Toby,
Thanks, what I am looking for is the front ujoint center line to the rear joint center line. I want to know how much "slip" the engineers felt was needed between the transmission and the transfer case.
Now back to the regularly scheduled program. What I am envisioning in the future of my gin pole project was shaped by some heavy recovery Mack or Ward LaFrance (I think) WWII wreckers. In transport they stored the booms on the side of the bed. It would be nice to have a clear full bed most of the time, but have the Gin Pole already mounted (less heavy lifting) and have the wishbone/sky pin and block on a removable (with pins) section. Just what I am aiming for might work, might not...but thought it might be a viable idea to consider.
Thanks, what I am looking for is the front ujoint center line to the rear joint center line. I want to know how much "slip" the engineers felt was needed between the transmission and the transfer case.
Now back to the regularly scheduled program. What I am envisioning in the future of my gin pole project was shaped by some heavy recovery Mack or Ward LaFrance (I think) WWII wreckers. In transport they stored the booms on the side of the bed. It would be nice to have a clear full bed most of the time, but have the Gin Pole already mounted (less heavy lifting) and have the wishbone/sky pin and block on a removable (with pins) section. Just what I am aiming for might work, might not...but thought it might be a viable idea to consider.
The distance of "slip" is very small but it is necessary, especially when not perfectly in line with each other. Simply measuring it won't give you the length of the spline or it's female mate. I expect having + or - 1/4" movement should work and at least the length of spline inside the female as it's diameter. Are you building a driveshaft?
We got about 5" of snow, making it difficult to go measure...my truck is not inside.
Post up any pictures of what you're thinking for a pipe crane like your describing. Having them attached and rotate around does sound easier but also probably heavier and in my case, hard to get totally out of the way. I will be looking for stowage and probably a lot lighter so the flat bed is useful.
We got about 5" of snow, making it difficult to go measure...my truck is not inside.
Post up any pictures of what you're thinking for a pipe crane like your describing. Having them attached and rotate around does sound easier but also probably heavier and in my case, hard to get totally out of the way. I will be looking for stowage and probably a lot lighter so the flat bed is useful.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7Q3qqrw3dxE
Any time fengshway is mentioned, it always reminds me of this scene.
Any time fengshway is mentioned, it always reminds me of this scene.
gentrysgarage
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Hi Toby,
5 inches of snow I can wait, THANKS! The rear suspension is taking alittle longer than expected.
In response to what I am thinking I went through Gimpy's links (to find a suitable picture to butcher) and found some one had designed what I am thinking about and solved the problem of raising the poles from storage in this side link on Irish's thread
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?57780-Help-with-gin-pole-design&highlight=winch+truck
Starting with post 13
Very Cool Thanks again Gimpy for posting the links!
5 inches of snow I can wait, THANKS! The rear suspension is taking alittle longer than expected.
In response to what I am thinking I went through Gimpy's links (to find a suitable picture to butcher) and found some one had designed what I am thinking about and solved the problem of raising the poles from storage in this side link on Irish's thread
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?57780-Help-with-gin-pole-design&highlight=winch+truck
Starting with post 13
Very Cool Thanks again Gimpy for posting the links!
Okay, I've read and looked at threads until it's all blending together. Thanks for all the help.
Can someone please explain the use of the tail block? I see it on a lot of rear pole cranes but don't understand why the cable can't go directly to the top of the A frame from the winch. Is a tail block necessary, if raising the frame from the folded frontward position is not necessary?
Can someone please explain the use of the tail block? I see it on a lot of rear pole cranes but don't understand why the cable can't go directly to the top of the A frame from the winch. Is a tail block necessary, if raising the frame from the folded frontward position is not necessary?
gentrysgarage
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I am no expert, only watched someone use a gin pole a couple of times. But from my reading, it is used to control the height of the gin poles in addition to raising them. Bob said he used a clamp on the winch line then adjusted his ty (might not be the right word) lines for height. So if it is permanent...you probably don't need it, he was raising and lowering his boom alot with and without load with the shed/garage construction. Personally I would have it made into the deck so if you ever decide to use it it is already ther, just make the hinge retractable and remove pulley.
I have 2 questions one I will save for later as I want to quote what Bob said that I don't understand. The other is for making the poles stowable in the deck the hinge pins need to be straight, but when raised they need a slight angle...use a longer well with a bent pin, straight for storage and slide them over to a slight bend when raising them?
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GG, yea that pin being straight and having to go from straight with the truck to angled is not clear to me. That said, splitting the angle in half and making a large pin bearing, might work fine. I think I have something similar for weld in hinges that I make from CR heavy wall and grade 8 bolt. It might be better to have two long pieces, rather than the hinge....but I think you will get the point.
