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Hub flip socket

rickdavis81

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I’ve been reading threads on hub flips but most seem for deuces. And I can’t find anything searching. What size is the socket for flipping them on my m51? Harbor freight have em? I’m 8 hours away in Texas sitting in a hotel room waiting to get my lmtv wheels in the morning lol
 

porkysplace

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I’ve been reading threads on hub flips but most seem for deuces. And I can’t find anything searching. What size is the socket for flipping them on my m51? Harbor freight have em? I’m 8 hours away in Texas sitting in a hotel room waiting to get my lmtv wheels in the morning lol
Not sure what you mean by "Hub flip socket" , but if your talking about the wheel bearing nut sockets the sizes are listed in the 5 ton parts spreadsheet in the stickies.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?82404-5-ton-Parts-Quick-Reference-Spreadsheet
 

simp5782

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Or use a chisel and hammer like folks have done for years. Especially easy if you know how to feel for the right preload

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porkysplace

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Or use a chisel and hammer like folks have done for years. Especially easy if you know how to feel for the right preload

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It's just as cheap to buy the right tool, than buy new nuts , and do the job correctly.
 

Shirehorse

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I usually jump on the cavitation-damaged liner bandwagon before oil coolers. I know we have all seen some of the crazy stuff people put in wet liner'd engine cooling systems.

I am curious to see what you find.
 

Swamp Donkey

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It's just as cheap to buy the right tool, than buy new nuts , and do the job correctly.
What was the matter with your old nuts, that led you to price new ones? Did they get busted? I'm sure you can find a pair of nuts on Ebay for cheap to replace your old ones. You need a pair of the small ones, right? Those are usually the ones that get beat up during removal. An NSN might help you in your search for a pair. Hope this helps.


Probably should just toss the TM's ans bubbafy everything.
Why? Can you elaborate on the meaning of bubbafy?
 

porkysplace

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What was the matter with your old nuts, that led you to price new ones? Did they get busted? I'm sure you can find a pair of nuts on Ebay for cheap to replace your old ones. You need a pair of the small ones, right? Those are usually the ones that get beat up during removal. An NSN might help you in your search for a pair. Hope this helps.




Why? Can you elaborate on the meaning of bubbafy?
Well a socket costs about $20 off amazon.

Can you ELABORATE on how to properly torque the nuts with a hammer and chisel . I've yet to see a chisel with a torque gauge on it , could you provide a link to one ?
 

simp5782

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What was the matter with your old nuts, that led you to price new ones? Did they get busted? I'm sure you can find a pair of nuts on Ebay for cheap to replace your old ones. You need a pair of the small ones, right? Those are usually the ones that get beat up during removal. An NSN might help you in your search for a pair. Hope this helps.




Why? Can you elaborate on the meaning of bubbafy?
Meaning someone should wander the rally field hoping someone brought their axle socket so that they can replace their knuckle boots. My suggestion of a hammer and chisel baffled that person too.

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simp5782

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Well a socket costs about $20 off amazon.

Can you ELABORATE on how to properly torque the nuts with a hammer and chisel . I've yet to see a chisel with a torque gauge on it , could you provide a link to one ?
You adjust preload off of feel. Not a torque wrench. Your bearing might not be seated properly when you go to torque on it. I dunno how many "preload" bearing/hubs i put together on a vice that were nothing more than a fancy way to put it together.
On the inner nut hammer tighter, spin hub, feel for resistance. Adjust accordingly loose or tighter. 50ftlbs is nothing. Hand tight with a ratchet is 35ft lbs. Install lock washer. Outer nut is 250 to 400ft lbs. Which is a nice gap. Tighten outer nut to mark it was removed from. Not rocket science.
I have used that preload method on everything car,truck,trailer and it hasn't caused any issues.
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Swamp Donkey

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Well a socket costs about $20 off amazon.

Can you ELABORATE on how to properly torque the nuts with a hammer and chisel . I've yet to see a chisel with a torque gauge on it , could you provide a link to one ?
Only trying to help buddy. What's with the attitude?

I've never seen a calibrated chisel either. Maybe my questions weren't clear...

I was asking why we should get rid of the TMs? And what was the meaning of bubbafy? It just sounded a bit derogatory but I'm not sure of the meaning of, so I'm probably wrong as usual. Just trying to learn more than I already know. Thanks for the help!
 

porkysplace

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Only trying to help buddy. What's with the attitude?

I've never seen a calibrated chisel either. Maybe my questions weren't clear...

I was asking why we should get rid of the TMs? And what was the meaning of bubbafy? It just sounded a bit derogatory but I'm not sure of the meaning of, so I'm probably wrong as usual. Just trying to learn more than I already know. Thanks for the help![/QUOTE

Well bubbafy may be used more in certain circles . The actual videos from when I went to trade school and got my certifications was a video series called "Primative Pete" and a hammer and chisel was one of the methods we were taught not to use and had it's own video on it. These videos pre-date the internet but probably are online somewhere
They were similar to articles in P.S. magazine . But what do I know I only spent the last 25 or so winter working Rockwells out concrete mixers that are about twice the size of 5 tons , all with air over hydraulic lockers also.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkse0OBDIVQ&list=PLA88638D46D18CBC6&index=2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OC4_VUvIgig&list=PLA88638D46D18CBC6
 
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74M35A2

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Why is everybody pissing in everybody else's Cornflakes lately? For once everybody is not mad at my sarcasm? I'm nearly offended. I have heard the calibrated chisel thing before though, so I'm only awarding half credit on that one.

Torquing tapered wheel bearings is a garage approximation. The absolute way to do it, if you guys are splitting hairs, is to use a dial caliper and measure hub axial free-movement. Should be an average of 0.003" of in-out hub travel if pushed and pulled. This is because this clearance becomes near zero once the bearing warms. If you set it too tight cold, she will be way too tight once warm, producing drag and damage.

I'll leave this here (*mic drop*):

https://www.timken.com/pdf/10410_Manual Wheel Bearing Adj Procedures Sell Sheet.pdf
 
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