Question regarding M1009 wheels

[85CUCVtom]

I really hate to start a new thread about this but I am getting conflicting information on the subject. I'm getting some new rubber for the blazer and my wheels are kinda rough, so I figured I would get some new steel wheels. I found a set of wheels that match up: the backspacing, the bolt pattern and obviously the diameter match but for some reason I can't find anything that has a matching center bore.

I'm looking at these wheels: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pcw-51-5883f/overview/
Mods, remove the link if not allowed.

So my question is, are the blazer wheels lug-centric, hub-centric or a combination of both? Does having a larger center bore than the original wheels present a safety issue? Or is everything centered up on the lug nuts?

Let me know what you guys think! I really want to get these things ordered but I certainly don’t want to create a safety issue on the road.

 

[cucvrus]

Hub centric wheels are on all CUCV's. Ever have to beat one off with all the lug nuts removed. Get the wheels sand blasted prime and paint them. How rough can they be?

 

[85CUCVtom]

Hub centric wheels are on all CUCV's. Ever have to beat one off with all the lug nuts removed. Get the wheels sand blasted prime and paint them. How rough can they be?

I figured you would be the one to respond! They aren’t to bad. It’s just gonna cost me more to blast and powder than to buy new ones!

Ever use the hub-centric rings to adapt to other wheels?


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[cucvrus]

I had 5 wheels sand blasted for $60. and then primed and painted them less them $100. for supplies. Sorry if I gave you the wrong answer. I like repurposing and utilizing everything I have to the fullest. Today was a chore for me. I think I am at my whit's end with my one M1009. That a whole other story. Good Luck.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I had 5 wheels sand blasted for $60. and then primed and painted them less them $100. for supplies. Sorry if I gave you the wrong answer. I like repurposing and utilizing everything I have to the fullest. Today was a chore for me. I think I am at my whit's end with my one M1009. That a whole other story. Good Luck.

Not a wrong answer at all! No sweat! I’m just weighing out my options.

Cucvrus- you never cease to surprise me with how much you know about these vehicles.


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[cucvrus]

I am currently struggling with a charging issue on my Crown of Thorns M1009. I'll keep digging I'll find the short soon.

 

[85CUCVtom]

Have fun with that one!

Anybody else have an opinion on the wheel situation? I’m still open to ideas and suggestions.


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[SETOYOTA]

He just told you the wheels you found won’t work. What other opinion is there?

 

[85CUCVtom]

He just told you the wheels you found won’t work. What other opinion is there?

I guess what I’m asking is what are my other options. I can blast and powder what I have but my powder coat source is pretty booked up right now.

I can’t find anything in the aftermarket that fits the bill. Know of any wheels with the correct center bore?


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[Tinstar]

The original M1009 wheels are kinda of a rare breed.
Not easily found.

I personally would spend the extra $$ to restore the original wheels instead of buying anything aftermarket.

 

[2deuce]

I agree with the idea of restoring your original wheels, but I wouldn't spend the money powder coating. I know it's ideal, but they are just black wheels, flat black is forgiving and I'm cheap.

 

[cucvrus]

If everything else fails. And you need the wheels today. I would put a plan into action.
Plan of Action to have 5 M1009 wheels before Monday. This the planning stage.
1.) Planning the work.
a.) 1 roll 80 grit 5" sand paper for a DA NO DA sander required.
b.) 1 roll 180 grit 5" sand paper for DA NO DA required
c.) 1 pair of work gloves.
d.) 3 cans krylon grey primer
e.) 4 cans krylon flat black paint. Prefer non camo. High heat flat black. Sprays nicer.
f. ) 2 rolls masking tape 1 roll 1" 1 roll 2" and old newspaper

2.) Working The Plan
a.) Sand the wheels with the 80 grit really well. Get in the grooves and start from the center and work your way out.
Do a good job. Allow a 1/2 hour per wheel with 80 grit and then 15 minutes with 180 grit.
b.) Wash wheels off with a wax and grease remover or clean gas will work. NOT diesel.
c.) Remember these are just wheels not the hood of a show car. Look the wheels over well. Can you do a little more? Or do they look good and semi smooth?
d.) If they suit you they suit me. Proceed to the next step.
e.) tape up the wheels if still mounted. and cover the tires with paper. Don't be a hero and wing it with out taping and covering tires. It looks like _ _ _ _ .
f.) prime the wheels 1 light coat and allow to dry. If they look good apply another coat. Keep applying primer till they are evenly covered. Allow to dry 4 hours.
g.) Top coat a light first coat and follow up with additional coats till a nice even flat black wheel emerges. I will NOT bill you for this consultation and you will have the nice wheels you want at a fraction of the cost, the same day, be able to touch them up in 10 minutes and NOT have a powder coat bubble of rust forming under the finish rotting your nice M1009 wheels. Besides the feeling of I done that myself it looks good and I saved $$$> Enjoy your day. Do it leisurely and no rush. I mean a few hours it will be completed. HAPPY EASTER. I do want some before and after pictures. Look at Terminus M1009 the post I painted the wheels. Made it
look like new again.

 

[2deuce]

Since you're getting new tires, you might as well dismount the old tires and check for rust inside. If you find any rust and don't sand blast it, I have found rustoleum rusty metal primer works well after you get most of the rust off.

 

[Tinstar]

What is the going rate these days for blasting, then powder coating a wheel?

 

[85CUCVtom]

What is the going rate these days for blasting, then powder coating a wheel?

Around me it’s about $100 per wheel. That is blast and powder. The guy I know bakes a primer on, then the color then a clear powder.


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[Matt5]

He just told you the wheels you found won’t work. What other opinion is there?

That it does not matter as much as anyone is making it out to. I run lug centric ford rims on my 28 with plow + ballast (about 10klb total) with no issues, prior to me, another person was running the same rims on a k30... with no issues... he claimed with sander loaded he was pulling out at 14,000lb.

Biggest thing is those rims are rated for 1800lb... now if that is because its lug vs hub centric, I have no clue... If you had a new POS, ya I would care more, I really don't think a 09 from the 80s with 80s studs needs to worry about bending the wheel studs from a lug centric rim...

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Lug centric is fine. There are oem vehicles with lug centric wheels. I use hub centric rings on my Buick but only to aid in install because of the deep lug holes. I’d just clean up and paint the stock wheels myself though.

 

[cucvrus]

I had more then one heavy duty pick up crack the wheels around the studs. I towed a few that were missing wheels because the had the wrong wheels on them. I try and stay safe. I would rather the hub hold the weight and the studs hold the wheel on against the hub. V/s the studs holding all the weight. That's just me and every truck manufacturer out there. Or NOT. But as far as strength. I have new trucks and they have hub centric wheels and hold up well. Same as the old ones. Lets face it technology in vehicles/trucks has improved in leaps and bounds sine the last square body CUCV rolled out of the Van Dyke Street assembly plant in Flint 30+ years ago. Enjoy your day. Happy Easter. I get 5 wheels blasted for $60. can hardly break out the sand paper for that. the only problem with blasting is if it is NOT painted the same day. Breathing on it will rust. And many times the seams start rusting even after a good sealer and painting. Most I sand and paint.

 

[LastFbody]

I was in kind of the same boat, I wanted to paint my wheels up before getting new skins. My wheels were in so-so shape. Took off what I could with a wire brush, did body prep (that used up a ton of rags), coated the rust with Loctite Rust Neutralizer, once that cured I went over everything with black rustolium hand paint, and once that was dry I used rustolium black camo spray paint for the outward faces. Turned out pretty nice, it looks almost factory new. The Loctite Rust Neutralizer was recommended to me by a buddy of mine that did a lot of metalwork over the years. I trust his opinion since everytime you'd mention rust around the man he'd go off into an angry tangent about how you can't weld rust and how much he hates rust in general.

Admittedly my method is kind of a hodge podge. If you can swing a sandblast/powder coat you'd get better results, all depends on your budget.

Semi-related question: Was it normal for the Army to not balance tires? I didn't find a single wheel weight on that whole truck.

 

[Tinstar]

Around me it’s about $100 per wheel. That is blast and powder. The guy I know bakes a primer on, then the color then a clear powder.
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I would do that in a second
Thought it would be more than that.
About same price for new aftermarket wheels I’m guessing.

Freshly refurbished factory wheels would look great.