LOL. 3K on the RPM is max for me.71.5mph = impending installation of the coveted 6.2 block interior inspection port.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
LOL. 3K on the RPM is max for me.71.5mph = impending installation of the coveted 6.2 block interior inspection port.
Hahah71.5mph = impending installation of the coveted 6.2 block interior inspection port.
Last night I went and looked at a HMMWV that is for sale. I'd never driven one before, so I don't know what's normal and what's not. The last time I drove anything painted flat green it was an M151 or an M880.
Overall the truck was in pretty good shape. It's an ex KS NG M998, manufactured in 1992 and has about 35K miles on the clock. It looks pretty good and started right up, idled and ran fine. I took it out for a short drive on the gravel road. It seemed to drive OK, but I was unable to get it over 40 MPH. On the way back to the guy's house I had it floored, and the speedo still never got above 40.
Is this normal, or a common sign of a specific problem? Transfer case stuck, air intake blocked, etc... I've already decided that this particular vehicle is not for me -- it has an off-road-only title and I'm not in the mood to try to fix that. Just want to know if it's something easily explained.
I did try cycling the transfer case from HL to H to L. When it was stopped and idling it seemed to shift fine, any other condition it wouldn't. I'm not a 4WD kind of guy, couldn't remember what I had read about a function check, and by then I'd found out about the title so I didn't do any in depth investigation.
The military purposely had 6.2l detuned in all new Humvees. Any engine rebuilt by the "prison system" were rebuilt to civilan specifications and had more power. I have had a civilian Hummer up to 115mph, smooth ride... I've had a military 2seater needle splitting the bottom of the speedometer, it was like atmospheric reentry lol
+1I believe that HMMWV you've been driving had one or more stuck calipers. That would slow down the driving experience a lot. I would have looked for red hot calipers after the drive. If the acceleration was slow , but slow down quickly, when letting go of the accelerator, then you got your answer right there.
There you go. How much was it going to cost anyway?Thanks for the ideas, but it wasn't a stuck brake. There was no pull to either side, and deceleration was a normal coast down. No hot metal smell after the drive. Stuck brakes are not at all difficult to detect.
I'm assuming it's a problem with either the transmission or the transfer case. Either way -- doesn't matter, this one is not for me (at any price) for other reasons.