Problem with MEP004

[viking1]

I like the 15 and 30 KW's. They are a good, dependable gen set. The white engine is a workhorse. I worked this gen set a long time, and found the engine to simply great. Problems like your fuel in the oil, are very rare. About the only complaint I had was some of the white engines had been "rebuilt" so often, without the crank being replaced, that on some engines, you needed to put smaller front and rear main seals into them. If you replace the seals and the new, standard seals start to seep/leak, that what needs to be done. The engines were being reworked in Utah, and CECOM got the boys there back on line. That's a long time ago. So probably no problem now.

On the electric side, once again, good and dependable. What I would do, if I were to want to have one for my house back up, would be to procure some of the electric boxes, the SP relay box, the A5 card and so on to keep on a shelf for a rainy day. The nice thing about it is that the 15&30 kW use the same parts, mostly, so there is a greater parts pool to dip from. I like the 004 and 005 simply for the fact that that it's way simpler then the new mep-804 or 805.

The short answer to your question is yes I would use a 004, and no, I don't think parts are a problem, if you got smart an found some spares. Most electrical problems on this set are DC, and mostly in the SP relay box.

That's a really great synopsis, and very helpful Sir. We ended up picking up both of those MEP004's. I was able to get one to fire almost immediately on ether for a few seconds (after adding new oil). The other one seemed to turnover very slow, and wouldn't pop at all. The battery cables were completely missing, guess somebody didn't want anyone to even try and start it? I was also curious if you knew why every 004 that doesn't run (whether private sale or on govplanet) seems to be missing the ip and or fuel strainers? Do they cannibalize them for use elsewhere? Have seen this over & over again......

 

[Guyfang]

No idea. I saw it lots in the DRMO and CAN Point. Assume it's because when they ship them, you have to remove POL products. Mostly the parts were inside, under the main AC, or in the stupid OVM box, on the left side

 

[viking1]

No idea. I saw it lots in the DRMO and CAN Point. Assume it's because when they ship them, you have to remove POL products. Mostly the parts were inside, under the main AC, or in the stupid OVM box, on the left side

OK, got this beastie starting & running/charging great, although still not sure if pump seal is leaking. I ordered s special tool from Oshkosh for the pump seals, will fix that if its still leaking diesel into crank. Now I just have to chase why the starter is constantly engaged, but great to have this old girl purring along....

 

[Guyfang]

Look at the schematic. It not a hard circuit. Pull out the SP/ relay box. It's just a few C-plugs and a few,maybe six bolts. Remove the start relay and test it. It sounds like it's stuck. If the relay is good, then you need to start going through the circuit.

 

[viking1]

OK, so quick update. I bought the Oshkosh seal tool that squishes the umbrella seals as you install the pump. Worked like a charm, and I'm no longer filling up the crankcase with diesel. Runs & charges great, next on to the constant cranking of the starter. Will pull SP/relay box; hopefully its something simple. Luckily it starts right up by touching the hot wire to the starter solenoid (which might slow me down on chasing down the repair, hahaha).

 

[viking1]

Look at the schematic. It not a hard circuit. Pull out the SP/ relay box. It's just a few C-plugs and a few,maybe six bolts. Remove the start relay and test it. It sounds like it's stuck. If the relay is good, then you need to start going through the circuit.

OK Sir, I have a quick and dumb question; genset starts &runs well for 20 minutes, then runs out of fuel and shuts down. In what position is that fuel selector valve supposed to be in (cant find it in any of my 3 manuals): up, middle, or down?

 

[Guyfang]

No, not dumb. There is supposed to be a data plate right under, or above the handle. Is it painted over? Hope so, but if not, here we go. I am trying to remember, but its been about 35 years ago that I actually looked at the data plate, but, UP is, (should be) AUX. MIDDLE is, (Should be) SET, internal tank. And DOWN, (should be) is OFF. I am not going to bet the farm on this. The only difference between Swiss cheese and my brain is that the holes in the Swiss cheese are smaller. What position is the handle in right now?

 

[viking1]

No, not dumb. There is supposed to be a data plate right under, or above the handle. Is it painted over? Hope so, but if not, here we go. I am trying to remember, but its been about 35 years ago that I actually looked at the data plate, but, UP is, (should be) AUX. MIDDLE is, (Should be) SET, internal tank. And DOWN, (should be) is OFF. I am not going to bet the farm on this. The only difference between Swiss cheese and my brain is that the holes in the Swiss cheese are smaller. What position is the handle in right now?

You called it Sir, data plate is painted over. I tried using goof off, but that just left a clean & shiny plate (haha). The handle is pointing straight up right now. I'll try the middle position tomorrow and see if it runs longer.

 

[Guyfang]

I think this is SET position.

 

[viking1]

View attachment 729126

I think this is SET position.

Thx Sir, I ran it in that position today. Seems to work great now...... If you decided to use an aux tank (ie 55 gallon drum etc), where would you hook it to?

 

[Guyfang]

There is a data plate on the gen set door, that has a diagram of the fuel system. The fitting on the left side should be the AUX fuel fitting. The fitting on the right should be the fitting that allows you to pump fuel out of the belly tank.

All this his info is in the -12 manual, PDF reader page number 24 and 34.

 

[viking1]

There is a data plate on the gen set door, that has a diagram of the fuel system. The fitting on the left side should be the AUX fuel fitting. The fitting on the right should be the fitting that allows you to pump fuel out of the belly tank.

All this his info is in the -12 manual, PDF reader page number 24 and 34.

Thx, would be nicer if they had actual pictures instead of just flow charts. Is it just me that has difficulty with reading the manuals (hahaha)....

 

[viking1]

There is a data plate on the gen set door, that has a diagram of the fuel system. The fitting on the left side should be the AUX fuel fitting. The fitting on the right should be the fitting that allows you to pump fuel out of the belly tank.

All this his info is in the -12 manual, PDF reader page number 24 and 34.

Hey Sir, I have another question. My friend bought two later Hollingsworth MEP004's to get running, and they are missing the injection pump mounting studs. We tried a bunch of different thread bolts, but cant seem to find the right ones. Any ideas? My machine has horizontal studs, his newer ones are vertical (and different size thread from mine).

 

[Guyfang]

Well, the IP mounting plate is set up for both Horizontal and vertical. I have never seen vertical mounted IP's, on 15 or 30 KW's. I asked someone still in the biz, if he had. Nope. He told me the white engine never changed, during its military life. And if it had changed, the studs would be the same. Very strange.

Are you sure that the maybe the bolts haven't been snapped off flush with the block? I looked up the part number for the studs, (no NSN) and the number will not come up.

The below info is for the nut. So at least you know one side of the stud. You need a thread gauge to find out what the threads are in the holes.

AAJD	THREAD CLASS	2B
AAJF	THREAD DIRECTION	RIGHT-HAND
ACTA	NUT STYLE	HEXAGON
ADEA	NUT HEIGHT	0 8/25 INCHES MINIMUM AND 337/1000 INCHES MAXIMUM
ASDB	WIDTH ACROSS FLATS	0 551/1000 INCHES MINIMUM AND 9/16 INCHES MAXIMUM
BZRR	THREAD SERIES	UNF
CMLP	THREAD QUANTITY PER INCH	24
CQFM	HARDNESS RATING	121 BRINELL STANDARD MINIMUM
CQJX	NOMINAL THREAD SIZE	0 3/8 INCHES
CRTM	BEARING SURFACE TYPE	CHAMFERED OR WASHER FACED
MATT	MATERIAL	STEEL OVERALL
SFTT	SURFACE TREATMENT	CADMIUM OVERALL AND CHROMATE OVERALL
STDC	SURFACE TREATMENT DOCUMENT AND CLASSIFICATION	QQ-P-416,TY 2,CL 3 FED SPEC SINGLE TREATMENT RESPONSE OVERALL

 

[viking1]

Well, the IP mounting plate is set up for both Horizontal and vertical. I have never seen vertical mounted IP's, on 15 or 30 KW's. I asked someone still in the biz, if he had. Nope. He told me the white engine never changed, during its military life. And if it had changed, the studs would be the same. Very strange.

Are you sure that the maybe the bolts haven't been snapped off flush with the block? I looked up the part number for the studs, (no NSN) and the number will not come up.

The below info is for the nut. So at least you know one side of the stud. You need a thread gauge to find out what the threads are in the holes.

AAJD	THREAD CLASS	2B
AAJF	THREAD DIRECTION	RIGHT-HAND
ACTA	NUT STYLE	HEXAGON
ADEA	NUT HEIGHT	0 8/25 INCHES MINIMUM AND 337/1000 INCHES MAXIMUM
ASDB	WIDTH ACROSS FLATS	0 551/1000 INCHES MINIMUM AND 9/16 INCHES MAXIMUM
BZRR	THREAD SERIES	UNF
CMLP	THREAD QUANTITY PER INCH	24
CQFM	HARDNESS RATING	121 BRINELL STANDARD MINIMUM
CQJX	NOMINAL THREAD SIZE	0 3/8 INCHES
CRTM	BEARING SURFACE TYPE	CHAMFERED OR WASHER FACED
MATT	MATERIAL	STEEL OVERALL
SFTT	SURFACE TREATMENT	CADMIUM OVERALL AND CHROMATE OVERALL
STDC	SURFACE TREATMENT DOCUMENT AND CLASSIFICATION	QQ-P-416,TY 2,CL 3 FED SPEC SINGLE TREATMENT RESPONSE OVERALL

As usual you were correct Sir; horizontal studs (bad memory). They are not snapped off, but this will help me find the correct studs. Thx so much Sir!!

 

[viking1]

Well, the IP mounting plate is set up for both Horizontal and vertical. I have never seen vertical mounted IP's, on 15 or 30 KW's. I asked someone still in the biz, if he had. Nope. He told me the white engine never changed, during its military life. And if it had changed, the studs would be the same. Very strange.

Are you sure that the maybe the bolts haven't been snapped off flush with the block? I looked up the part number for the studs, (no NSN) and the number will not come up.

The below info is for the nut. So at least you know one side of the stud. You need a thread gauge to find out what the threads are in the holes.

AAJD	THREAD CLASS	2B
AAJF	THREAD DIRECTION	RIGHT-HAND
ACTA	NUT STYLE	HEXAGON
ADEA	NUT HEIGHT	0 8/25 INCHES MINIMUM AND 337/1000 INCHES MAXIMUM
ASDB	WIDTH ACROSS FLATS	0 551/1000 INCHES MINIMUM AND 9/16 INCHES MAXIMUM
BZRR	THREAD SERIES	UNF
CMLP	THREAD QUANTITY PER INCH	24
CQFM	HARDNESS RATING	121 BRINELL STANDARD MINIMUM
CQJX	NOMINAL THREAD SIZE	0 3/8 INCHES
CRTM	BEARING SURFACE TYPE	CHAMFERED OR WASHER FACED
MATT	MATERIAL	STEEL OVERALL
SFTT	SURFACE TREATMENT	CADMIUM OVERALL AND CHROMATE OVERALL
STDC	SURFACE TREATMENT DOCUMENT AND CLASSIFICATION	QQ-P-416,TY 2,CL 3 FED SPEC SINGLE TREATMENT RESPONSE OVERALL

Hi Sir, sorry to bother you but need a bit more help. My original MEP004A runs like clock (thx), but I just picked up two more I need some advice with. They are the Hollingsworth models fully rehabbed in 2009. Both were missing pumps etc, but I got a new set from Oshkosh with the purchase. I did get the one running via an aux fuel tank (gravity feed) by shorting the solenoid, but I have no power to either the battle short or normal run switches. In fact, no power anywhere to the control panel (or the error lights). Any ideas on where I should start looking? Thx for the advice sir...

 

[Guyfang]

Find CB1. Its on the control panel end. Open the right side door and measure at CB1 and see if you have 24 volts on the input pin, and pull out CB1, push it back in, and see if the voltage is on the other pin. If so, then open the control panel. Find the R13 shunt and see if voltage is there. If it is, you should have 24 volts in the control cube. If no voltage is present at CB1, then make sure the canon plugs on he Special relay box are tight, and no pins are pushed back in the plugs.

The reason you have no power to the solenoid is because you have no power up front in the panel.

 

[viking1]

Find CB1. Its on the control panel end. Open the right side door and measure at CB1 and see if you have 24 volts on the input pin, and pull out CB1, push it back in, and see if the voltage is on the other pin. If so, then open the control panel. Find the R13 shunt and see if voltage is there. If it is, you should have 24 volts in the control cube. If no voltage is present at CB1, then make sure the canon plugs on he Special relay box are tight, and no pins are pushed back in the plugs.

The reason you have no power to the solenoid is because you have no power up front in the panel.

Hey Sir, quick question. Finally got MEP004A #2 up & running, but it has a few problems. Many gauges are intermittent (which could be from the long time sitting), and NO warning/test lights at all. To start it I put the switch to "run", turn battle switch "on" (pumps then start running), push S switch to start and pull "off" the battle switch to make it crank. Starts almost instantly and then I switch battle switch back on for a bit. After it runs for 30 seconds or so I can turn it off again and it will keep running until I use normal S switch to turn it off. I'll pull & reset all the connectors and check that no pins are pushed back tomm, but the biggest problem is the engine wont rev up to speed. It will idle down OK, but wont reach 2000 RPM w throttle lever wide open. I would Attach a video of it running if i could; doesnt look like the site will let me. Any ideas? Thx

 

[Guyfang]

Finally got MEP004A #2 up & running, but it has a few problems. Many gauges are intermittent (Describe intermittent) (which could be from the long time sitting), and NO warning/test lights at all. (Did you chect the fuse? Test it dont just look at it.If the fuse is good, I will tell you how to check the Fault Indicator) Then To start it I put the switch to "run", turn battle switch "on" (pumps then start running), push S switch to start and pull "off" the battle switch to make it crank. Starts almost instantly and then I switch battle switch back on for a bit. After it runs for 30 seconds or so I can turn it off again and it will keep running until I use normal S switch to turn it off. I'll pull & reset all the connectors and check that no pins are pushed back tomm, but the biggest problem is the engine wont rev up to speed. (You are using the throttle control, and not the reostat. Right? Yes, it happens all the time, so I have to ask) It will idle down OK, but wont reach 2000 RPM w throttle lever wide open. I would Attach a video of it running if i could; (sure you can) doesn't look like the site will let me. Any ideas? Thx

Take a good picture of the IP, stopped and running. Post it here, under attach files. The same with a video. Or send me a PM and I will send you my email.