Trying to fix issues on new to me M1008 - now won't start

[nyoffroad]

This may be a long shot but it's also worth checking, these trucks are old and so are the wires and connectors. I chased down a intermittent starter problem and it turned out to be the small purple (IIRC) wire that goes down to the starter solenoid, the wire itself was fine, it was loose in the crimped on ring terminal the nut holding the terminal on was tight. I also had an aftermarket hi torque starter that melted the silver soldered connection on the copper braided wire that goes from the solenoid to the motor itself. hope this helps.

 

[CUCV1008]

Was able to get a new surplus relay locally, was pristine on inside, plugged it in. Same issues. One clunk at starter and still got a buzz from the box on a few attempts. I am now pretty sure it is just the starter solenoid gone bad.

I checked the relay wires per the TM and had about 11V with key in START for the purple/white lead, 0 volts on that lead with the key off and 24.7 volts on the red lead with the key off.

Will try to find someplace that can swap in a new starter for me. Then start hunt for a rebuilt factory gear reduction one.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Edit to add: I did unplug the negative wires and unplug the relay just to look at it and just realized it only has four prongs it in, although it does have a slot in it for a fifth prong. The AR135 and AR746 versions have five prongs.

5 prong is usually not a problem. It usually means it's a general-purpose relay that can be configured as NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed), depending on how you wire it. Like this:

https://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/relaytextA2.gif

www.the12volt.com is a great resource, BTW.


You'll just use the NO terminal, and the NC is unused in this application.

 

[CUCV1008]

Could someone please tell me the difference between the $100ish dollar 24V starters available and the parts store ones like the Wilson 91-01-4417 that is just over $200? Any actual build difference?

 

[snowtrac nome]

The only difference is the military model will be water proofed better.

 

[Hasdrubal]

There's a military model? What is that?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

There's a military model? What is that?

Hey, you don't know about the military starters???? They are really something! They are purpose built for the Special Forces, and made almost entirely of Imaginarium!

 

[cucvrus]

The only difference is the military model will be water proofed better.

No such thing. They did have a closed nose starter with a mudder nose. Not very water or mud resistant either. Basically the same starter as every civilian truck had in structure except 24 volt. Send a direct drive 12Volt to a rebuilder and have him build you a 24 volt out of it. Get the same outer shell back. Have a great day. 1 less CUCV in my stable soon to be minus 2.

 

[nyoffroad]

s. One clunk at starter and still got a buzz from the box on a few attempts. I am now pretty sure it is just the starter solenoid gone bad. .

Could be a bad solenoid or bad brushes in motor or a bad connection between the two or even a bad connection at the main battery cable/starter.
Do you have a remote hand held type starter switch? If so hook it up and with the wheels CHOCKED and parking brake applied lie under truck and press the button and see what happens, you may see a spark or two you some smoke if so there's your problem. If not check for voltage at the connection to the motor itself, if you have power there then the problem is the motor.

 

[CUCV1008]

Update: Got a new 24V Gear Reduction Wilson starter installed using new bolts from local GM parts counter. and the manifold heat shield and front support bracket reinstalled. Also got some belts changed, new fluids in radiator, trans, tcase, new trans and fuel filters and new copper battery cable ends (old ones were steel that had some corrosion).

Transmission is now leaking out drivers side where shifter linkage connects, and it does not want to shift when it is cold, so that will be addressed soon. I also need to get a new sending unit in hopes that will fix my gas gauge which just sits with the needle at about 3 o'clock past the full line.

The volt gauge now sits about one needle past the green/red line into the red "overcharge" area (I was hoping the new belt would put it back in the green). I will do the diagnosis per the TM with a voltmeter tomorrow and hopefully find out if it is issue with alternator(s) or a bad gauge.

The passenger side floorboard gets water when coming from the footwell vent (?) when it is driven in the rain, so I need to take off those interior panels and see how that can be fixed.

Keep adding to the list but I love driving it.

 

[cucvrus]

The passenger side floorboard gets water when coming from the footwell vent (?) when it is driven in the rain, so I need to take off those interior panels and see how that can be fixed. ​

My guess from afar is the windshield is leaking in the lower pinch weld. I would remove the windshield and get a reputable glass man to remove and reseal it. Around here I get a new glass installed and resealed for about $125. But if it has rust in the pinch weld. I send the guy packing till I can get it fixed. I bought trucks in Georgia that had rust in the pinch welds. Not only a rust belt issue. The paint was flat and easily effected by moisture just like all the older vehicles. Good Luck.

 

[CUCV1008]

Had to chance to put the voltmeter to the alternators. With the engine running (in park), I got 29.1V on Pass side Alternator positive and 14.6V on drivers side (the DS would jump slowly around 14.5-14.6-14.7 but stayed 14.6 the longest).

With engine running I got 14.25 on front battery and 14.78 on back battery. And when running to the ground on the frame rail by the manifold, got 14.1V on front battery and 28.9 on rear battery.

Drove it around before I took these readings and volt meter stuck about on the line between green and red, however lately it sticks most times about one needle past the line into the red (overcharge) section. The Gen 1 light was on right when it started but I touched the pedal and it immediately went off and stayed off.

Per section 9 under 2-60 in the TM, if the voltage is over 16.0 at the left or 31.8 at the right, when engine is running, to replace the alternator, and if voltage is correct, replace voltmeter.


From that, seems like I need to double check the DS alternator to see if jumping around again which could indicate loose wire or bad regulator according to a post I found while searching here.

Anything I am missing?

 

[CUCV1008]

Pushed the project away for awhile (would drive a few miles a week just to keep it moving) and starting to look at it again. Since purchasing I have had to replace the starter, fuel sending unit, gauge cluster print board, front axle joints, rear driveshaft joints, both batteries and oil cooler lines in addition to the standard changing of all fluids and filters in the truck.

The gas gauge is now pretty spot on (just under 10 gallons from 1/2 tank on gauge) but it still moves up when the key is turned on and drops some when truck is off.

Truck has 94k miles on it and I have only put about 400 on it I think since purchase.

Looking for input on transmission issues. If the truck sits a few days, when I shift to gear I can rev the engine high and the truck doesn’t move. I have to part way push the throttle and hold normally for 30 plus seconds before the truck will start to creep forward. Same if I shift into reverse or 1st gear.

Most of the time when I have driven the truck for 5 or so minutes the shifts (at 16 and 27 mph approx) get more noticeable and when I stop and shift to reverse it clunks into gear as it should always. But if it sits again for days, next start up I am slowly reving the engine just to get the truck to move.

I called two trans places and was quoted $1,200-2,400 for a full rebuild with torque converter for the turbo 400.

Any chance the symptoms listed above could be anything other than the transmission slipping too much and in need of a full rebuild?

 

[cucvrus]

Change the fluid and filter. But the truth of the matter is the seals are brittle like fresh potato chips and the transmission needs to be rebuilt. Don't try and cut corners and do it half assed. You could save a bit of cash and take it in and out yourself. But yes the transmission is slowly dying and the longer you use it in that condition the more internal damage will occur. It is very easy to change the transmission. I done it on a sheet of plywood with a floor jack many times. A good experienced helper is also key. Good Luck.