tomcava
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I'm going to need to add a conventional 2 inch hitch to my M1028. Will this work with my truck or are there better options?
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Best Civi 2 inch hitch?
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dependable
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Better off with a class 4 if you want to tow anything.
https://trailerparts.com/vehicle-hitch-finder/draw-tite-hitch-41001-class-iii-iv-receiver.html
https://trailerparts.com/vehicle-hitch-finder/draw-tite-hitch-41001-class-iii-iv-receiver.html
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Hey Tom - I believe it’s against the forum rules to post a link to an active auction. You might want to remove that link before you are caught, tried, convicted, and sentenced. The site administrators are notorious for sending violators to Guantanamo. Just trying to help.
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I don't think that e-bay link is considered an "active auction"
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No e-bay links at all are allowed.
Please abide by the following rules concerning the posting of auction information in the forums:
• Do NOT post about future or current GL/GP(GovPlanet)/GSA/eBay (including items for sale in buy-it-now formats)/local/city/state/Federal/estate auctions. You may post about any auction after the auction is closed.
LT67
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I'texted you pics of the set up on my 85 M1008.... let me know if they don't come through
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nyoffroad
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This or a class 5, I would NOT use that bolt on one in the OP.
tomcava
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nyoffroad
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Yes , it bolts to the frame not the bumper.
dependable
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I recall I might have had to trim a tab off a bumper support for bolt clearance or something, it was just a bit, and sawzall did it, and had to drill 4 of the 6 holes, but other than that, it fit right in.
swinters
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I have a class 5 that I bought brand new and it won't mount to the frame of my M1028 without messing with the hardware and bracing for the pintle hitch and I didn't want to do that. I ended up putting on one of those 5000 lb. rated step bumper receivers from Harbor Freight as a temporary solution and it works so well that I'm leaving it. I mainly pull either a 12 foot aluminum boat on a trailer or a small enclosed trailer with camping gear in it so it's fine for my needs. If you're going to haul something like a dump trailer full of wet dirt or something like that then you might need to look at another option but one of these bolted to a CUCV bumper is pretty beefy. I made a 1/4" plate that sits in the recessed "step" center part of the bumper and then went through the bottom two pintle bracket holes and two holes in the plate lined up with the elongated safety chain holes in the bumper (the receiver has safety chain eyes) with bolts to mount the receiver. Grade 8s are designed for a shear load and are correct for this kind of an application. If the bolts are in a tension load, like the 4 bolts that mount the pintle, a grade 5 is stronger than an 8. Truth in advertising here - I had 4 of the right size grade 5's so stuck them in and they're still there and I've towed everything up to a 16 foot camping trailer. It's on my to-do list to change them but every time I go to the hardware place I forget to get them. Thanks to this thread they just made it to my tomorrow list (they're closed today). My other truck is a GMC 1 ton with the LBZ Duramax/Allison package so it sees the heavy stuff.
dependable
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If the trailer is heavy enough to need trailer brakes, you need a class 3 or 4 hitch, class 5 is a new one to me, but I tow skidsteers and the like with the one I linked above.
I believe the thing you have to get out of the way is the original pintle hitch bracing, as swinters posted above, but that hitch has a limited load capacity, and is higher from ground than you want for most trailers. If you intend to haul military trailers speced to that class of vehicle, keep it original, otherwise you need a frame mounted receiver hitch.. You can probably figure how to have both, but it will require more work than cutting the support strap out of the way.
I believe the thing you have to get out of the way is the original pintle hitch bracing, as swinters posted above, but that hitch has a limited load capacity, and is higher from ground than you want for most trailers. If you intend to haul military trailers speced to that class of vehicle, keep it original, otherwise you need a frame mounted receiver hitch.. You can probably figure how to have both, but it will require more work than cutting the support strap out of the way.
tomcava
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Thanks man - yes i'm trying to figure how to have both...
Glockfan
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I ordered a bolt on kit from etrailer and took all the parts to my friend who is a welder. He looked at me and said, "these parts are for people who don't know me" and proceeded to throw all but the center section in the scrap metal bin and went to work. I am confident that my hitch will never go anywhere. This is the only pic I have that is handy but I can take some detailed pics of just how he set up my hitch if you are interested.
snowtrac nome
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my suggestion would be to go with a direct fit drawtite hitch. You can pick up a class 3 or 4 receiver at u haul and other dealers. In another life when I was younger I did hitch installation's and the draw tites had the best fit and quality.
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I don't want to hijack this thread, but I would like to see those detailed pictures. Might give me some ideas on how to do mine.
I had replaced my pintle hitch with a Rockinger hitch (1st pic), works great although a bit too high and the bracing sits in the way of my K5 tank swap. I liked the look of the hitch on the Iveco Daily I drive for work (2nd pic) over the current (OEM?) ball hitch setup so I measured it, size is perfect, but the bumper/shackle mounts sit in the way. If I can get that on I can either put a Rockinger Variobloc (3rd pic) on it so I can switch hitch type as needed, or if I can angle the hitch in the 1st pic a bit, it can stay there and a permanent ball hitch can be mounted on the Daily hitch frame.
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snowtrac nome
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Thats the problem with those universal hitches they never fit quite right and sometimes hang pretty low. The drawtite will fit under the bumper tight and hold more weight than a blazer can safely pull.
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"with a torch & welder you can do anything"
Thats an old Indian saying that I just made up.
Thats an old Indian saying that I just made up.
CivilEGR
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I know it's an old thread, but now's the time for me.
If I go with the one in the link, will I have to remove the pintle and pintle mounts at all? I can live with getting rid of the spare tire as I might end up mounting it in the bed anyways. Also, will I have to remove the bed to mount the bolts on the top?
Keith_J
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Draw Tite 41938 works well. Class V, attached with 8 bolts (9/16"), 4 holes line up but may need reaming as holes are punched prior to folding the rails so the holes deform. The other 4 holes are a bear to drill, I took the time to do a modified spit point grind on a Silver and Deming (reduced shank) bit in my 1/2" drill. This spotted the hole perfectly, then using a split point (factory grind) to pilot drill.
The only modification needed on a stock CUCV is removal of the frame extension brackets which bolt to the web of the frame. You can still have the frame extensions but do not rely on them for any towing purposes. With welding, they can be modified.
I left out the vertical bolting on the extensions, using these holes to mount the Schraeder valves for my Air Lift suspension bags. Hidden and safe plus no real work to mount the valves.
The only modification needed on a stock CUCV is removal of the frame extension brackets which bolt to the web of the frame. You can still have the frame extensions but do not rely on them for any towing purposes. With welding, they can be modified.
I left out the vertical bolting on the extensions, using these holes to mount the Schraeder valves for my Air Lift suspension bags. Hidden and safe plus no real work to mount the valves.
