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....... looks very good!View attachment 736963NF0LXR back in uniform, no more fire engine red.
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....... looks very good!View attachment 736963NF0LXR back in uniform, no more fire engine red.
MUCH better!!!NF0LXR back in uniform, no more fire engine red.
What brand of paint t did you use? Do you know what the paint code was? That 1009 looks great! I am approaching getting my 1008 painted and am trying to get the right paint code for the body shop. I know federal standard 34094 is the original code. We tried looking it up on the paint mixing computer at the body shop, but didn't have any luck the first time.View attachment 736963NF0LXR back in uniform, no more fire engine red.
I used RAPCO 383 green, utilized the thinner and ratio they specify on the web site. One gallon of paint was plenty.What brand of paint t did you use? Do you know what the paint code was? That 1009 looks great! I am approaching getting my 1008 painted and am trying to get the right paint code for the body shop. I know federal standard 34094 is the original code. We tried looking it up on the paint mixing computer at the body shop, but didn't have any luck the first time.
Thanks
Well, I probably shouldn't have said KEEPS them out. It DRIVES them out once they are in. So far, it's working on the house better than anything else I've tried.So the "ozone" keeps those little devils out ?
You clearly do not know Oklahoma Law.
Aye, that's the part that gets overlooked a lot.My defense costs would out weigh the item being stolen 10 fold.
Must be a Eastern US thing...........
Hmm, not something for me then, I tend to have a heavy foot when the engine is warmed up. I like the vroom sounds it makes.I love these Banks kits and they do great as long as you don't have a loose nut at the steering wheel.
What ? It causes rubber to deteriorate ? I did not know that. Now how am I going to get rid of those pesky, rotten little meecse !!!The problem with ozone is it causes rubber and other materials to deteriorate. And as stated do not breathe it. Me and my coworker got a lung full and he got sent to the ER.
1. The power steering pump bolts like to come loose, especially the bolt holding the bracket to the block. Make sure they’re tight first. I put red thread locker on it to keep it tight.I finally got my M1008 today after the debacle that was shipping it. On the to do list:
1. Fix a sqealing belt...
7. Figure out a tag / taglight solution.
There are a few pictures in this thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...time-CUCV-owner-M1008-New-member-from-Alabama1. The power steering pump bolts like to come loose, especially the bolt holding the bracket to the block. Make sure they’re tight first. I put red thread locker on it to keep it tight.
7. I mounted it on the rear bumper because I use the pintle hitch, and for the lights I bought some light bolts and they worked great.
Got any pictures of your new truck?
I can get a non-expiring vintage plate, but can’t run a period correct plate after 1976 right now.I used L brackets underneath my truck to attach my plate, but I had an M1009, M1010, and M1031, a little diff than an M1008.
I would also look into the legality of running vanity or 'period correct' plates, I'm lucky enough that my state law is worded as such that I can run a green USA (Armed Forces in Germany) identification plate with my state issued plate attached under and behind the bumper, still completely visible but because the USA plate is so obvious, you don't look further, and makes it look better, IMO. So, I'd use Plus Nuts on the tailgate to permanently attach a USA identification plate, and mount the state issued plate below, but check your state law. Some states have very specific mounting requirements.
View attachment 737328
I haven't run a license plate light and have never had an issue, but YMMV....
They do make license plate light bolts that you can get on Amazon for dirt cheap....
NOT an auction, per site rules...
https://www.amazon.com/CZC-AUTO-Waterproof-Rainproof-Motorcycle/dp/B077Z6WQ6Q/
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