MarcusOReallyus
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
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cucvrus
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You can learn a lot from a Dummy.
rustystud
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Now would be a perfect time to install a steering gear "frame reinforcement kit" .
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That's a good idea, I should have completed that prior to reinstalling the power plant. Never even thought of that modification.
This truck is being refurbished to participate in the MVPA 2019 Convoy. After it's back together the modified S250 Camper will be added to it.
cucvrus
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Do you really think that is needed? I never seen a stock truck with a broke frame unless it was used as a plow truck. And I will add if someone was poor on maintaining the truck and drove it with bad axle joints. But never seen a stock one.
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A few more pics as requested. Replaced all of the split loom with new high temp loom. New oil and P/S lines as well.
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.......changed tires front axle to the rear and rear to the front...........changed engine oil, oil- fuel- and airfilter.
Next week a small trip to Switzerland is planned.
Next week a small trip to Switzerland is planned.
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MarcusOReallyus
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AC, you know what you ought to do? It came to me as I was saving your pics for future reference. You ought to put all of these pics into a single album here on SS, and link to it in a sticky in the "Helpful Threads" section.
Being able to see views of various parts of the vehicle without obstacles in the way can be a big help for someone trying to work on the truck while it's assembled. For example, if I need to mess with the vacuum pump, but it's all new to me, being able to see your back of engine shots would help me understand how it's positioned, how it all goes together. Same for the firewall, an on and on. I think it would be a very valuable resource.
Even better if some of the shots had different parts numbered, with a table below telling what the various numbers are. For example, temp sensor, vacuum pump.
Hey, it sounds like I just volunteered you for a big project!
You're welcome!
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}
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Marcus,
Actually some of the pictures were added to help a member with exactly what you suggested. He needed some info on one of the items that are on the rear of the engine that is not easily seen. Your idea of having pictures of the more difficult and unseen places is a good one.
I'm trying to get this truck back together as soon as I can but the antenna work load is busier now more than any other time of the year. I'm only able to work on it a few hours during the week and on Saturdays. Maybe I will have some additional time to catalog everything during the M1010 and eventually the M1009 reconstructions.
Actually some of the pictures were added to help a member with exactly what you suggested. He needed some info on one of the items that are on the rear of the engine that is not easily seen. Your idea of having pictures of the more difficult and unseen places is a good one.
I'm trying to get this truck back together as soon as I can but the antenna work load is busier now more than any other time of the year. I'm only able to work on it a few hours during the week and on Saturdays. Maybe I will have some additional time to catalog everything during the M1010 and eventually the M1009 reconstructions.
MarcusOReallyus
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I hear ya. You guys have to make downtilts while the sun shines.
If the T-Mo buyout of Sprint is approved, you guys will have a good couple of years decommissioning a lot of sites. Then it will be crash time.
rustystud
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Mine was just showing signs of frame strain when I bought it. So I immediately installed the frame kit and have had no further damage since. It was never used as a plow truck either. It had been taken off-road a lot though by the military.
I would install the kit just for the piece of mind it brings. If you have ever had a steering gear come loose you know what I mean.
Ilikemtb999
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Sprayed some rust spots with fluid film. I need to get on some rust repair sooner rather than later along with weatherstrip install.
rustystud
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Rust spots never end on Chevies for some reason. Get some good quality spray primer and finish paint in the correct color of your vehicle. Keep them with the truck at all times, along with some sanding sponges.
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Got my new P400 out of the crate and on the engine lift.
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ridenby
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Sharecropper that is a pretty sight.
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I see you are in Frankfort. Maybe drop by if you ever come over towards Paris.
LT67
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New 2.25in exhaust and got the AC system charged on the 86 M1008.... it works and no leaks!
alpine44
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That's how I had planned to keep both alternators in my M1009. Dual pulley on the compressor and separate belt to alternator.
Did you fab the brackets and tension adjustment bars from scratch?
alpine44
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Would the M1008 side tanks fit on a M1009? I could need more fuel capacity to take advantage of the local price difference on diesel.
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Got the P400 on the engine stand. The engine is all metric. The threads on rear transmission face are M10-1.5. Anybody planning on doing this should be careful, because a 3/8-16 will appear to fit and screw into the M10 holes about a half-inch, but then will become thread-bound trying to screw further into the metric holes. M10 is correct and will thread all the way to the bottom of the holes, which is around 7/8". I suppose the mistake of using 3/8-16 bolts to support an engine on a stand has been made before, and possibly ended with losing the engine off the stand.
I couldn't find any M10 bolts around here long enough to attach the stand to the rear of the engine, so I ordered 200mm (7-7/8") long M10 threaded rods and M10 flanged lock nuts from McMaster-Carr. Once they came in and I began to attach the stand, I became uncomfortable with attaching the top arms of the stand to the top bolt holes of the transmission face. I discovered that the top bolt hole on the driver's side did not extend into the block, but instead was a superficial casting (see red arrow in photo below). And since the P400 weighs more than a normal 6.5 due to the additional weight of the cast iron girdle and heavy cast oil pan, I was concerned that the top hole casting could possibly break off from the weight. So I decided to move the top attachment points of the engine stand to the M10 threaded holes on the back of the heads. I measured the distance from the transmission face to the back of the heads. The passenger side head was positioned forward exactly 25mm and the driver's side head 50mm. So I ordered three 25mm steel spacers from McMaster and used steel washers to center the threaded rods in the engine stand arms.
I couldn't find any M10 bolts around here long enough to attach the stand to the rear of the engine, so I ordered 200mm (7-7/8") long M10 threaded rods and M10 flanged lock nuts from McMaster-Carr. Once they came in and I began to attach the stand, I became uncomfortable with attaching the top arms of the stand to the top bolt holes of the transmission face. I discovered that the top bolt hole on the driver's side did not extend into the block, but instead was a superficial casting (see red arrow in photo below). And since the P400 weighs more than a normal 6.5 due to the additional weight of the cast iron girdle and heavy cast oil pan, I was concerned that the top hole casting could possibly break off from the weight. So I decided to move the top attachment points of the engine stand to the M10 threaded holes on the back of the heads. I measured the distance from the transmission face to the back of the heads. The passenger side head was positioned forward exactly 25mm and the driver's side head 50mm. So I ordered three 25mm steel spacers from McMaster and used steel washers to center the threaded rods in the engine stand arms.
