HMMVW Rims separation & run-flat insert removal + Hutchenson beadlock insert install

[stevenbeven]

HMMVW Rims separation & run-flat insert removal + Hutchenson beadlock insert install

Hello all,
I know others have posted but thought I'd do my own for the replacement / upgrade to Hutchinson double bead lock inserts from standard HMMVW run-flat inserts. At first I was wanting to just reuse the run-flats to save the never ending bleeding of cash but decided i'd probably not be happy with all of the vibration I'd likely get from the heavy inserts. There are a few videos on how to get them out online and I've made some myself. I saw several videos on how to remove the inserts but not too many on how an average Joe can separate the wheels which are really really on there... i'll post a series of videos that I've create to separate the wheels and the steps I took to get here. Sorry that the audio isn't the best, i just kinda decided to document while I was going with my phone so production value isn't quite Spielberg level... Anyone doing these can expect several hours to get them separated i believe.
I used an impact wrench to remove the 12 bolt bead lock nuts. These took quite a while and on one of the wheels my 1/2 in Milwaukee impact wasn't strong enough. I ended up driving my truck on the wheel with tire that was a challenge to hold it still and used a large breaker bar to get the problem nuts loose then used impact to remove the rest of the way.
Tools used -
- Truck
- Tree
- Impact wrench
- breaker bar
- Tow strap
- two chains
- long bolts with nuts (heavy duty - mine were bolts that came from the previously used kingpin extension so they are strong bolts / nuts and same thread as hmmvw bead locks)
- two 10,000 lb tie down straps (sale at autozone for 10 off each of these)
- Torque wrench
I cleaned these off after separating with a drill / wire wheel and a grinder with wire wheel and lots of brake cleaner. After that I took them to get sand blasted locally. Cost 200 for all 5.
Painted with Krylon Pro Flat black afterwards that I bought at sherwin williams. 1 can per tire pretty much is what it ended up needing. put more coats on the front but covered all rims to help prevent rust.
Will send updates when Hutchinson inserts come in (hopefully they come in today so I can get those installed)
If anyone has any tips for installing Hutchinson please shoot your advice over! They look easier than the run-flat versions but time will tell!

 

[stevenbeven]

Some pics of the rims before any work

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[stevenbeven]

Video Documentary of my process. May not have been the best but it worked out for me. Also, need to remind, can be dangerous pulling these apart and recommended safety considerations be taken!!

Part 1 of 6 videos

 

[stevenbeven]

Part 2

 

[stevenbeven]

Part 3

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[stevenbeven]

Part 4

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[stevenbeven]

Part 5

 

[stevenbeven]

Part 6

 

[stevenbeven]

Rims after degreasing with wire wheels from grinder / drill then followed by sand blasting. The guy I got my blasted from said the thick caked on grease is hard to get off with sand blaster and would cost less if this was already removed...

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[shawnshumvee]

Looking good! That truck (video 6) sounds tuff! BadA$$!

 

[Chaski]

Cool!

Personally I have always had good luck with an engine hoist. Mine has the folding legs that are sort of in a vee. Just flop the tire / wheel assembly on the ground, go to the back of the engine hoist and tilt it back, roll it over the wheel and flop it down so the two legs are on the sidewall of the tire. Then just rig a short length of 2x4 with some chain through the pilot hole on the front half of the wheel. Jack away on the engine hoist and the front half of the wheel will pop right off. Remove the hoist, flop the wheel over then repeat on the back half of the wheel (will need a different length of wood / pipe for the back).

Next place the tire on it's tread, then use a heavy hammer to beat the insert down so that it you can rig a strap around it, then repeat again with the engine hoist. Soapy water helps, when the insert finally comes out of the tire it can be pretty energetic so don't have yourself or anything valuable nearby.

I was able to get the PVC beadlock inserts in pretty easily with some soapy water and the engine hoist trick using a fiber strap.

 

[stevenbeven]

Awesome Chaski! That sounds like a safer method with a lower Kinetic energy than what I did. I don’t have an engine hoist so had to go with a shade tree method but glad it worked.

Here is the finished product. I’ve got some videos I’ll upload of installing the Hutchinson pvc inserts. The hardest part was torquing the lug nuts I felt. That took freaking forever!!! Used my Milwaukee fuel 1/2” impact but guess it doesn’t have power that the newer ones have. I saw the new one has 1400 ft-lbs! Insane...

In reflection, I’d consider going with trailworthy fabs re-centered wheel / tire combos if doing it over again.

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[ssdvc]

Nice work !

 

[stevenbeven]

Hi there, does anyone use thread locker when installing these wheel adapters? About install my now. Instructions don’t call for it but curious if anyone had better results using it?


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[Chaski]

I took a carbide scraper and cleaned off the hub face so there was not any crud or high spots. where the spacer bolts on. I think this is probably the most critical thing to do so you have a dead flat surface.

Slathered a boatload of copper anti-seize on and torqued it all up to whatever it was supposed to be for 9/16-18 studs. Drove it around for a week then did another round with the torque wrench, with no movement. I don't think Loctite would hurt anything... I just didn't use any.

I installed an ARB locker for a guy one time that had 3" steel spacers on a 14 bolt. Impact gun (and a good one at that) would not budge the nuts, I had to get a giant breaker bar, another bar to hold the axle from turning, and a really enthusiastic large drunk guy that happened to be at my buddies shop to get them off. Long rambling story aside, I don't want the spacers to come off at the wrong time, but I do want them to come off at the right time...

 

[stevenbeven]

@chaski thanks for the tips and I agree, want them to come off when needed but not while driving...

Just installed all 4 and looks pretty good. Will retorque in few miles and have ordered some lugnuts that are the same as the wheel nuts so it all matches.

One issue already is the **** things are all leaking... not sure where I went wrong but I just retorqued all wheel bolts to 130 lbs. sprayed some soapy water around the outer bead but not seeing any bubbles.

I’ll pressure test again tomorrow to see if my retorquing helped. If not my next guess is the valve stem with the Teflon tape. Didn’t see any bubbles around it when I sprayed them though.

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[Abbylind]

Bought some MTRs for my M1008 unfortunately out of 7 tires I got two that hold air! 5 have sidewall damage!
Anyone have any tips for REMOVING Trailworthy PVC inserts? I used a floorjack to make them oval for the install but the only way I can get them out is to cut the sidewall on the tire. Ideas?

 

[Abbylind]

Also I used a large jack stand to remove the rear of the wheel. The legs fit on the wheel surface betwix the studs. Hit the top of the jack stand with a sledge...pop off it goes! I used dielectric grease on the O rings. My Dewalt cordless 1/2" impact tool makes quick work on the retainer nuts. Used some PB blaster to lube the studs.

 

[Chaski]

Bought some MTRs for my M1008 unfortunately out of 7 tires I got two that hold air! 5 have sidewall damage!
Anyone have any tips for REMOVING Trailworthy PVC inserts? I used a floorjack to make them oval for the install but the only way I can get them out is to cut the sidewall on the tire. Ideas?

I just use a bunch of dish soap solution in a spray bottle. Use a large pry bar (steel pipe, primo 2x4) to turn the insert perpendicular to the tire. Then use a nylon strap and an engine hoist to pull the insert out. Place the tire flat on the ground, then place the legs of your engine hoist over the sidewall of the tire. Spray it down with soap solution, rig the insert to the engine hoist and start jacking. The insert can pop out with some vigor so don’t have your face or anything expensive nearby.

 

[Abbylind]

Alas no engine hoist here.....