whistler turbo sound

[Michael]

I have this M109 with a whistler turbo that I am convinced the bearings are going out on. While reading threads about this I keep seeing all these post about how much louder these are than other trucks. Sitting in the cab I don't really see what all the fuse is about because I don't think it is that much louder than my other trucks. But get to the right rear of it and I can hear what sounds like a bearing screaming. Get a couple of hundred feet away and that is all you can hear.

This truck has been sitting in the yard for 10 years and has only recently be cranked. It has only been moved from one place in the yard to the back of the house (to make the city leaders happy) and has not been on the road yet.

The plan is to move it to property I own out in the country about 30 miles away but I am worried that the turbo is going to explode on me or do these normally sound like this? Do turbo bearings even give much warning that they are about to go? Since the turbo doesn't even help with power and is only for decreased smoke will it still run if the bearing does fail?

 

[snowtrac nome]

ive had 2 holstets fail on me one just locked up and the engine lost power the other one lost a bearing and seal on the exhaust side, that one happened during low visibility and it pumped the crank case dry before I knew I had anything wrong.

 

[99nouns]

that one happened during low visibility and it pumped the crank case dry before I knew I had anything wrong.

Did it burn the oil or did it splatter to roadside out of exhaust? How did it pump the crank case dry?

 

[snowtrac nome]

Did it burn the oil or did it splatter to roadside out of exhaust? How did it pump the crank case dry?

It was during breakup in the spring my dodge truck was straight piped with all the road spray being kicked up you couldn't see the smoke. but it essentially pumped 3 gallons of oil out the exhaust on to the road

 

[porkysplace]

It was during breakup in the spring my dodge truck was straight piped with all the road spray being kicked up you couldn't see the smoke. but it essentially pumped 3 gallons of oil out the exhaust on to the road

So it sucked a Cummins dry , not a multi-fuel ?

 

[snowtrac nome]

So it sucked a Cummins dry , not a multi-fuel ?

Yes this could also have happened with any turbo engine. I've seen multifuel engines spit oil out the exhaust to

 

[snowtrac nome]

Noises in turbos are from broken shafts

 

[gimpyrobb]

To where?

 

[rustystud]

Noises in turbos are from broken shafts

Broken shafts in Turbos don't make sounds anymore. They only make sounds while the bearings are going out, then they take out the shaft. Once it has a broken shaft they don't turn anymore. They just wedge themselves into the housing after chewing them up a bit. I have a beautiful "Holeset" turbine blade setting on my shelf just behind me. I pried it out of it's housing after the shaft broke. Now it's an ornament.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

Take the t-bolt clamp loose that's holding the hose to the intake/compressor side of the turbo. Pull the hose off the compressor housing, push the hose out of the way, look inside and see if the wheel is black with oil. If so, rebuild. Then reach inside and see if the shaft spins smoothly and freely. If not, rebuild. Then try to push the shaft from side to side and up and down. A little bit of play is alright (IIRC up to about .024") but if it's flopping more than that, maybe time for a rebuild. Also see if while holding the shaft to any side/up/down if you can feel the wheels scrapping the inside of the housings while turning the shaft. If so, rebuild. If it's dry inside, spins freely, no excess play, no scraping, then I wouldn't worry about it.

If you're not willing to examine the turbo, or trust what you can actually see and feel when you examine the turbo, then yank it, drop $150 and the labor invloved in rebuilding it (or possibly substantially more if you have someone else do it). Then, if you put it back on the truck and it makes the exact same brain-melting whine, you'll know that the frequency it's generating is nothing more than a product of your specific fuel delivery, idle speed, exhaust pressure, ear sensitivity, etc.

 

[dmetalmiki]

There is a big difference between a 'whistle' and a 'screech'. Post up a video of it, Im sure that will enable members to discern your concerns.

 

[Michael]

There is a big difference between a 'whistle' and a 'screech'. Post up a video of it, Im sure that will enable members to discern your concerns.

I thought about that but I don't live there anymore and I get busy packing and moving while I am there.

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[Michael]

So if I am hearing a bearing I can probably rebuild it, but if I run it til it breaks I am probably going to need a new turbo?

 

[dmetalmiki]

'Things' that sound really bad, and are 'odd' enough to cause you concern, should be fixed before starting or driving any vehicle.
Try to get a local member to have look at it with you.

 

[gimpyrobb]

So if I am hearing a bearing I can probably rebuild it, but if I run it til it breaks I am probably going to need a new turbo?

New turbo, or even a motor if it sends parts into the intake.

 

[rustystud]

New turbo, or even a motor if it sends parts into the intake.

What he said .
Turbo's are a great invention. They can add a tremendous amount of free power to an engine. They can also be very destructive if they decide to let go. All those extremely fast moving parts (40,000 to 100,000 RPM's) letting go can really mess up your day.
That's why most fleet shops have a "standing order" to regularly check the turbo's condition. Most people wait until they "hear" something going wrong before checking it out. Usually by that time they need a complete rebuild. Then if you decide to "wait" until the sounds go away you end up with major engine damage. Sucking up a piece of Magnesium/Titanium Alloy can really do a number on a cylinder, valves, and pistons.

 

[sidewinder770]

Where have you guys found good turbo rebuild kits for the C turbo? I have 2 sitting on a shelf but would feel better if I rebuild them before testing one out. One feels pretty tight but the other is a bit loose.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

Where have you guys found good turbo rebuild kits for the C turbo? I have 2 sitting on a shelf but would feel better if I rebuild them before testing one out. One feels pretty tight but the other is a bit loose.

Here ya go...
https://www.midwestturboconnection.com/searchresults.asp?Search=5017&Submit=
Have a nice weekend - MN

 

[m16ty]

Take the t-bolt clamp loose that's holding the hose to the intake/compressor side of the turbo. Pull the hose off the compressor housing, push the hose out of the way, look inside and see if the wheel is black with oil. If so, rebuild. Then reach inside and see if the shaft spins smoothly and freely. If not, rebuild. Then try to push the shaft from side to side and up and down. A little bit of play is alright (IIRC up to about .024") but if it's flopping more than that, maybe time for a rebuild. Also see if while holding the shaft to any side/up/down if you can feel the wheels scrapping the inside of the housings while turning the shaft. If so, rebuild. If it's dry inside, spins freely, no excess play, no scraping, then I wouldn't worry about it.

If you're not willing to examine the turbo, or trust what you can actually see and feel when you examine the turbo, then yank it, drop $150 and the labor invloved in rebuilding it (or possibly substantially more if you have someone else do it). Then, if you put it back on the truck and it makes the exact same brain-melting whine, you'll know that the frequency it's generating is nothing more than a product of your specific fuel delivery, idle speed, exhaust pressure, ear sensitivity, etc.

I've seen some brand new turbos that had quite a bit of shaft side play. I don't know what the measurement is, but it's quite a bit just going by feel. My rule of thumb is look all the way around and see if you see any scrape marks on the housing, or if you can force the fan to rub the housing by hand. Also, I've seen some that were making pretty good contact with the housing, and still not leaking a drop of oil.

 

[Michael]

Take the t-bolt clamp loose that's holding the hose to the intake/compressor side of the turbo. Pull the hose off the compressor housing, push the hose out of the way, look inside and see if the wheel is black with oil. If so, rebuild. Then reach inside and see if the shaft spins smoothly and freely. If not, rebuild. Then try to push the shaft from side to side and up and down. A little bit of play is alright (IIRC up to about .024") but if it's flopping more than that, maybe time for a rebuild. Also see if while holding the shaft to any side/up/down if you can feel the wheels scrapping the inside of the housings while turning the shaft. If so, rebuild. If it's dry inside, spins freely, no excess play, no scraping, then I wouldn't worry about it.

If you're not willing to examine the turbo, or trust what you can actually see and feel when you examine the turbo, then yank it, drop $150 and the labor invloved in rebuilding it (or possibly substantially more if you have someone else do it). Then, if you put it back on the truck and it makes the exact same brain-melting whine, you'll know that the frequency it's generating is nothing more than a product of your specific fuel delivery, idle speed, exhaust pressure, ear sensitivity, etc.

Finally made it back to the house. No oil, turns freely, very little free play. There was a little soot.

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