Newest project, Hmmwv in PA

[daveiaff]

 

[daveiaff]

I’m going to try the valve stem in the fuel cap to pressurize the fuel tank. I’m drawing out of a 5 gallon can belowthe lift pump now. I drained all the old fuel out of tank put in new plug. Let’s see if that works.

 

[Action]

I think I remember RWH here on the forum in a different thread mentioning something about having the wires on the IP hooked up correctly.
you might want to double check that or drop him a PM.
Or if your lucky he will see this post and offer a few suggestions.
BH[/QUOT

Yes the top electric cut off and idle were rebuilt with injector pump Thanks

Rebuilt for 12v or 24v ?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

5209 Pump is for a 6.5 detuned, you might want to advance your pump timing a bit.
just did a Pump last week...found the cold advance switch in the right rear head was bad.
the problem with rebuilder companies is 2 fold...if it’s cheap to rebuild, they just eyeball the rotor head, if it’s expensive, they replace it, That part alone is like 4-5 hundred. I find most mil pumps just get gummed up due to stagnant fuel and clogged screens, bad orings, not hrs on the pump itself.

 

[daveiaff]

Thank you, the old one went to a diesel shop and was diagnosed with a bad head and rotor. I got a 5209 pump rebuilt from Hummer parts guy , I will research the cold advance switch. I still have the manifold off, I'll put it back on also. Got a little more black smoke coming out of tail pipe. Still no start, I put a tire valve on the cap and pressurized the tank a few psi. It is a 2006 rebuild low miles, but I think it set outside without running for a few years. I'm also looking into a compression test. I will advance the pump a bit. The lines on the pump and the engine block are inline now, I'll rotate pump towards drivers side.

 

[daveiaff]

Can someone describe what the fuel pulsing out should look like when line off at injector and line off at back of injector pump?. I still may have air in the lines, but I've tried a few different ways to bleed air. Thanks

 

[Action]

Is the alignment mark stamped after an engine is assembled and set? If so, that pump isnt original to that motor. The line would mean nothing.

 

[daveiaff]

I just used that as a reference to start with.

 

[daveiaff]

So after much research, got a compression test gauge, for gas engines, only goes to 300 psi, but I used it. It had the M10 thread fitting to adapt to glow plug holes. Took out all the glow plugs, remove wires from injector pump and let it crank. I got a high of 230, a few at 120 and front passenger side cylinder only 60 PSI. I think I found the no start problem.

 

[daveiaff]

I took off the water pump to check the timing marks and they are good. It is vey clean behind the plate that holds the water pump, which leads me to believe that this is a low mile motor, 3300 miles with a rebuild date of 2006 in Maine. Would a shot of either in its earlier life take out the rings to cause this low compression. The compression gauge is a harbor freight special, but I think the readings are accurate. I may remove new iP pump, lines and remove valve covers to watch valve train and them remove heads. Is there a way to check ring damage visually. Thanks

 

[TOBASH]

First make sure your compression tester was completely seated. Looseness will kill the reading.

To confirm "blow-by", squirt higher viscosity oil into the cylinder PRIOR to placing tester, then crank away and look for drop off.

DO NOT PULL HEADS! Instead get a boroscope to look inside through the injectors. Vertical lines indicate scored cylinders.

Squirt a cc or 2 of oil into each cylinder and then button up and replace glow plugs and start her up with biodiesel or fuel cleaner to see if valve deposits are preventing valve seating to allow compression.

Best,

T

[EDIT] - if the engine is blown, please PM me as I might need a part or two and I live in Brooklyn, NY, which is not too far away.

 

[daveiaff]

M998 compression test - No start

Gov Planet purchase , no start and knocking on cranking in description before I bid. I've finally got a compression test and have low of 60 psi and high of 240 psi on cylinders. Harbor freight compression tester for gas motors only goes to 300PSI, but I couldn't even get to 300 on this 6.5. Seems like the 3300 miles on the odometer are correct, good straight body and clean underneath. Question ? Could a shot of either earlier on in its life taken out the rings or worse to cause this low compression? Thanks


Things that I have upgraded to new, GP, rebuilt DB2 IP, Control box and TSU, ground system. I checked the start rpms, 240.

 

[rcamacho]

M998 compression test - No start

60 psi? Pull the engine teardown and inspect for cracks/blown head gaskets / rings.

Or optical bore inspection first


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[daveiaff]

I'm looking for a better compression tester to borrow, and thought about the oil trick. Any particular type or weight.? Thanks

 

[TOBASH]

I'm looking for a better compression tester to borrow, and thought about the oil trick. Any particular type or weight.? Thanks

Just get Rotella. Don't buy a new tester. Just do the test with what you got and see what happens.

 

[tage]

Compression is good initial, but leak down test is what is needed now.
The oil trick is only to determine condition of rings. Which you know are toasted.
The question is what is each cylinders psi compression? Is there only one at 60 psi? Are they all within 5-10% of each other? High low doesn't mean much.

Also the odo mileage doesn't mean ****. They go bad all the time and sop is to replace with a new unit with 0 miles.

Also are you able to replicate the knock? If so I wouldn't even tear down this engine. Get a running long block, and send this one in as core.

 

[TOBASH]

Compression is good initial, but leak down test is what is needed now.
The oil trick is only to determine condition of rings. Which you know are toasted.
The question is what is each cylinders psi compression? Is there only one at 60 psi? Are they all within 5-10% of each other? High low doesn't mean much.

Also the odo mileage doesn't mean ****. They go bad all the time and sop is to replace with a new unit with 0 miles.

Also are you able to replicate the knock? If so I wouldn't even tear down this engine. Get a running long block, and send this one in as core.

Well said

 

[SCM35A2]

Subscribed!

 

[TOBASH]

Survey says?????

Hoping things work out for you and your rig.

T

 

[daveiaff]

After a few months of part time working on it and research on this site and others. We have a running engine. I believe it was stuck rings not providing enough compression. Marvel mystery oil thru glow plug holes with syringe, crank a few times , let sit for a day , repeat. While cranking we dumped a quart of ATF down the manifold and got it to start. I will recheck compression soon , to see if it improved. Can't post video, but screenshot of it running. I was ready to throw in the towel and LS or duramax it, may still be in future. I'm waiting on new water pump now and maybe driving Monday.
.