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Another No start thread

ConradB

New member
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Location
Colorado
Greetings,

I got my M0178A1 home to Denver and it started just fine like a champ.... Now, not so much. I swapped out both fuel filters... But it doesnt seem I can get it to prime like it should? If I open the fuel/water separator vent and pump... it seems it pushes out air and sucks it back in on the same pump? I am thinking maybe this is the problem? Any help would be beneficial. Is there anyway to read codes on these motors without going to a cat dealer?

Thanks
Conrad
 

319cssb

Well-known member
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Location
Easley SC
Isnt there q push button one needs to push to prime it? Also fill the filters with diesel before screwing back on?
 

ConradB

New member
3
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1
Location
Colorado
Isnt there q push button one needs to push to prime it? Also fill the filters with diesel before screwing back on?
So I filled the water/fuel separator with fuel and reinstalled... and when I open the vent (leave barely open) and push the button 1000x, nothing happens other than a air noise. No fuel ever starts pouring out which I think it is supposed to?
 

319cssb

Well-known member
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Easley SC
there is a bleed screw by the secondary filter, that is what you're supposed to open to bleed and then prime with the pump. Did you do that?
bleed screw.jpg
 

319cssb

Well-known member
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Location
Easley SC
bleeding procedure as per TMin case you want to look yourself
TECHNICAL MANUAL MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
UNIT MAINTENANCE
M1078 SERIES, 2 1/2-TON, 4 X 4, LIGHT MEDIUM TACTICAL VEHICLES (LMTV) VOLUME NO. 3
in case you want to look for yourself 4-11

Screen Shot 2018-11-10 at 5.43.43 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2018-11-10 at 5.43.52 PM.jpg



 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,846
7,475
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Location
Port angeles wa
What you describe with getting air out of the filter/sep drain when you squeeze the bulb is perfectly normal.

That little primer bulb/button is just a flexible diaphram, not a pump all by itself. It needs 4 things to work right and draw fuel from the tank.
1. Fuel suction line from tank to water sep must be airtight and be able to pull a vacume otherwise it will suck in air and never lift an ounce of fuel from the tank.
2. Just in past the inlet on the water separator is a flapper type check-valve. When you pull that filter and look up inside the boss where the filter gets screwed on, you will see it. It must be free from debris and be able to form a seal.
3. The bulb itself must be free from leaks
4. On the outlet of the fuel lift pump(found on governor or HEUI pump assembly) is another check valve.

Both check valves and the squeeze bulb/button(and the interconnecting plumbing) form a simple manual pump. You push in on the bulb, fuel and air cannot go back thru the flapper check on the water sep body, so it must go forward thru the lift pump and thru the check valve located there. When you release the squeeze bulp/button, the vacume this creates should seal the check valve at the lift pump outlet and cause fuel/air to be pulled thru the flapper check in the water sep and into that first filter. Eventually you will push all the air out thru the lift pump and suck fuel in from the tank provided you have NO leaks in the 4 items I mentioned or the plumbing between. Opening the drain on the water sep would cause this type leak and keep the bulb from moving any fuel from the tank... That bulb is also not very large, so even if everything is working perfectly, it will still take a long time to pull any ammount of fuel from the tank(which is one reason to pre-fill the filters).

Opening that vent slightly on the secondary filter that 319cssb mentioned and putting a little fuel around it might give you an indication if it is moving any fuel/air thru the system as it should bubble that fuel each time you pump the bulb untill it fills that filter then fuel should come out each time you pump.

What year and engine are we talking about here?

There are other ways to prime the fuel system. One is to disconnect the fuel return line at the tank then inject a little compressed air into the tank thru that port.

CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION the tank is NOT a pressure vessel so too much air can deform and rupture the tank. So this is best done at the tank by someone who is paying attention, so you can see if any deformation starts occuring indicating you have applied too much air.

It only takes a very small pressure to force fuel up the supply line. The elevated air pressure in the tank will force fuel up the fuel feed thru the filter/sep past the bulb thru the lift pump, into and thru the secondary filter then thru the head to the pressure reg and back down the return line. As you apply air to the tank return port, air and fuel should begin flowing out the return line you disconnected so best to run it into a container or you will start wearing it:). Once you only get fuel out of that line, all the air should be purged so you should be able to reconnect it and the engine should then start...

you could also use an electric diesel lift pump or a manual pump to feed fuel into the supply line disconnected at the tank to force fuel thru the system.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Stratford/Connecticut
The primer diaphragms get dry with age and can suck in air. The hose from the pickup tube on the tank to the big separator can develop pinholes over time. Have replaced a bunch of those. The fuel lines are 3/8 jic flare you can get barb fittings and use those with clamps and fuel line in a pinch. Most local hose shops can make up new ones it’s a common fitting.
 

Milspec2

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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6
Location
Col Spgs, CO
Not for nothing, but I live in Colorado Springs and the temps have been down for the last week. My LMTV does not like temps below 50 degrees F. It will start, but I hate the grind on the starter. I replaced the old corroded Zero Start system on mine last week with a lot of swearing. But helped alot.
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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7,475
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Location
Port angeles wa
Not for nothing, but I live in Colorado Springs and the temps have been down for the last week. My LMTV does not like temps below 50 degrees F. It will start, but I hate the grind on the starter. I replaced the old corroded Zero Start system on mine last week with a lot of swearing. But helped alot.
What year and engine?
 
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