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M1009 Brake and Turn Signal creeping crawler FIX

edpdx

Active member
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Oregon
So after checking grounds and replacing brake/signal lamp sockets on my M1009 because of intermittent failure that turned to abject failure, I finally figured out what exactly the problems was.

The OEM socket, seen here with a metal ring flange PIC 2 (2).JPGthat the bulb lugs lock into, had become corroded. Positive connections became impossible. I replaced the sockets on rear left/right with two replacements that had NO metal ring and lug locks. The bulbs seemed to work great for awhile but after a few road trips I began to have failures in first one, and then the other. The second photo shows a black corePIC 2 (1).jpg with plastic lug grooves instead of metal lug locks.

The third photo shows a different brand with a white corePIC 4.jpeg and no metal to keep the lugs locked down so the twin bulb terminal can make constant contact with the current carrying spring bands at the bottom of the core. Both of these plastic only sockets failed.

The problem I found was that the lamp base, one copper the other bulb stainless, were climbing out of the lamp socket and losing contact with the current bands below. This was happening because as the socket became heated over long night trips; the lugs on the base heated up and melted new grooves in the plastic. The bulbs were working themselves higher and higher away from the power supply. The grounding tabs were still pressing against the bulb case, so it wasn't a grounding issue. To verify, all I had to do was press the inserted bulb down into the socket. It would light in all respects. But if I flicked the side of the socket with my finger I could see the whole bulb climb out of the socket, lose contact and go out. The whole sequence was repeatable.

My FIX: I recovered the original socket (pic 1) and dressed all points of contact with a small file. Then I spliced the original back into the wiring. The result: No climbing, only a reliable connection. While I was putting away my tools, I found a replacement socket from PICO- Part 5402C. PIC 4.jpgIt had the metal ring and lug locks.

If you are having brake/signal lamp failures- which apparently make my EMERGENCY FLASHERS fail as well, try cleaning metal contacts- if you still have them. If not, be leery of the plastic core type replacement.

My Emergency Flashers did not work when the sockets failed, but worked immediately after I replaced the plastic sockets with metal OEM types.
 
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Tinstar

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That question was mainly for the guys who don’t know to stay away from the cheap plastic ones.
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
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That is one reason that self serve auto salvage has going for it. While you are surfing for your part you can shop along the way and get some replacement parts that you may need later. Good job of analyzing the problem and moving on to a solution. One reason I inspect a new replacement part at the auto parts store before I leave.

The front parking lamps have always been a problem area because of water infiltration. In 38 years I have had one failure of the socket in the rear due to corrosion. The OEM GMC Chevrolet sockets in my opinion are well designed.
I use dielectric grease on the very bottom of the bulbs to help with corrosion. You just can not get up by the bulb for the obvious reason of heat.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Virginia
That is one reason that self serve auto salvage has going for it. While you are surfing for your part you can shop along the way and get some replacement parts that you may need later.

Very true. I wish I had one near me! Closest one is about 2 hours away.

I use dielectric grease on the very bottom of the bulbs to help with corrosion. You just can not get up by the bulb for the obvious reason of heat.
Silicone dielectric grease should tolerate the heat of the light bulb.
 
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