M105 bed on non-bobbed deuce?

[puppy]

Anybody ever seen it done? I didn't think so,

but...

If a man were gonna bob a deuce, would there be any drawbacks to:
1. Remove the original bed.
2. Cut the 39" off the rear frame.
3. Mount M105 bed.
4. Finish the suspension part of the project when spring(needed spare time, front springs and hangers, etc.) came around.

You would essentially have a "bodded tail" deuce with a zero departure angle in the rear.

Just thinking out loud here so don't get too torn up.

 

[tm america]

you could get a greater departure angle in the back if you left it 6x6 since there is nothing that hangs past the axle .but with running it as a 4x4 you would have leaf springs that might hang out past the tires and thus making you leave the frame longer plus the wheel well on the m105 is about a ft from the rear so the centerline of the axle would be like 30- 36 inches from the back so you would have overhang unless you cut the m105 bed down so why even run a m105 bed if you are going to cut a bed down anyway .if you cut the stock bed down it would give you better tire to bed clearance and would save you from buying a bed since you are gonna run front springs from a deuce on the back there would be no need to buy a m105 to part out

 

[tm america]

and its been done so many times it should have its own forum not many guys are running cut down deuce beds or shortened wheel base 6x6s be different it will be worth the extra work

 

[puppy]

Just for clarification what I am asking is why could I not do all the bed related work and cut the rear frame behind the tandems to shorten the overall length at first. Then come in at a later date to pull out the tandem assembly, install the spring hangers and springs centered in the M105 wheelwells, and reinstall a single rear axle to complete the bobbed deuce.

Basically all I am doing is some of the work this winter and some later in the spring.

I guess I should probably just do it all at once.

 

[BFR]

doing it in stages makes sense to me.

 

[tobyS]

Since we are supposed to do our research before posting, here is another almost unanswered thread that could have been more informative. Search brings it up.

Thread: M105 bed on a non-bobbed deuce???

That is exactly what I am doing. The OP must have given up, so a title that brought me to the thread has nearly no research value behind it.

The bed 110" has 60" from the axle center to front and 50" to the back, to center the wheel well and the axle/wheel. The advantage I believe to the M105 bed is an attractive wheel well. Axle placement then is dependent on where the bed is placed in relation to the cab and back of the frame. That's where a true "bob", cutting the frame shorter so the bed is up against the cab is often (maybe mostly) done.

But that is not the OP question or title, he has asked about a "non bobbed" deuce....which leaves the frame full length.

There is 12' (144") from the back of the cab to the end of the frame. The M105 bed is 110 but it may overhang on the back. On mine, that overhang is going to be 3", which then determines the axle center to be 50" from the rear of the frame. That is about the rearmost position, given my A3 has a plate on the rear already. The front of the bed is then 57" further, putting the bed front at 107" from the rear of the frame. 144-107= 37" and that is to the cab, not the cab mount.

The question becomes, what to use that 3' space for?

 

[porkysplace]

Since we are supposed to do our research before posting, here is another almost unanswered thread that could have been more informative. Search brings it up.

Thread: M105 bed on a non-bobbed deuce???

That is exactly what I am doing. The OP must have given up, so a title that brought me to the thread has nearly no research value behind it.

The bed 110" has 57" from the axle center to front and 53" to the back, to center the wheel well and the axle/wheel. The advantage I believe to the M105 bed is an attractive wheel well. Axle placement then is dependent on where the bed is placed in relation to the cab and back of the frame. That's where a true "bob", cutting the frame shorter so the bed is up against the cab is often (maybe mostly) done.

But that is not the OP question or title, he has asked about a "non bobbed" deuce....which leaves the frame full length.

There is 12' (144") from the back of the cab to the end of the frame. The M105 bed is 110 but it may overhang on the back. On mine, that overhang is going to be 3", which then determines the axle center to be 50" from the rear of the frame. The front of the bed is then 57" further, putting the bed front at 107" from the rear of the frame. 144-107= 37" and that is to the cab, not the cab mount.

The question becomes, what to use that 3' space for?

Single bunk sleeper , search DaveP's threads for his M818 with one.

 

[tobyS]

Thanks PP but I can't see many overnight outings in a truck that tops out at 50 mph. My use will be local, I expect.

It could just be enough space for a crew cab with comfy 4" foam bench seat that one could sleep when necessary.

I was thinking a frame and winch (I have a grove crane winch 7K) that could work with rear A frame or go forward over the cab on a front A frame. Center frame would be roll over protection too, probably diamond plate going over the cab.

 

[MudMarine]

I like where you're going with this build. Are you going to use this for your build thread? Maybe go full on Grove crane? I wonder if you could set the winch up to run the crane or quickly reset it for rear winch recovery.

 

[tobyS]

I have a crane truck with 50' of stick so a crane as short as these military Grove cranes seems like a step backward. They are very heavy as well.

I'm already doing so much change that a real crane, swivel and telescoping is more than I want to deal with. I have a supply of 2"x24" hydraulic cylinders so a simple one, like one section telescoping (and pinned) might be possible. The winch is only about 7k, so while lifting an object it has plenty of power, as a front or rear mount for self recovery, it's too small.

No, not using this as my build thread. I would like to see some projects that go against the trend of cutting the frame aka "bobbing"(the subject of this thread is a non-bobbed deuce). I think I have provided enough info for someone seeking dimensions to locate the 105 bed when not cutting the frame.

I haven't taken the axle off yet or plated the frame, I'm still trying to confirm dimensions and talking through the project helps in that regard. Here is the rear of the frame and bumper. The box tube will be attached to the bed and although bolted down, could be made to dump at a later time.

 

[MudMarine]

Yeah I kinda like the idea of a short bed Deuce if I'm following your train of thought correctly. Definitely interested in what you come up with for the extra space gained behind the cab.

Also a sleeper in a truck that only does 50 is almost MORE practical in my eyes.... It's too slow to go far quickly, you'll need a place to sleep!

 

[rustystud]

Yeah I kinda like the idea of a short bed Deuce if I'm following your train of thought correctly. Definitely interested in what you come up with for the extra space gained behind the cab.

Also a sleeper in a truck that only does 50 is almost MORE practical in my eyes.... It's too slow to go far quickly, you'll need a place to sleep!

That's what I was thinking !

 

[tobyS]

Here is the next part of putting an M105 bed and axle placement on a non-cut frame.....the drive-shaft.

The axle position was based upon putting the center of the wheel on the center of the wheel well when there is only 3" of bed overhang behind the rear of the frame. That makes the axle center 47" from the rear of the frame and puts the pack spring mount into the reinforcement plate (on my M35A3). The wheelbase is 165". My driveshaft must be 84" (measured).

The driveshaft, to be one piece, using the Spicer chart for 3" diameter and a max speed of 2500 is 76". If you drop back to 2000 rpm, it is 85".

Thus I'm on the edge for a one piece driveshaft and am looking at combinations using both removed shafts to make one that has a carrier bearing. Even then, at least one of them must be made longer to make the 7' distance.

I have a couple of questions about carrier bearings. The shaft portion that has splines cut is 1 3/8" diameter. When I look for carrier bearings, most have a rubber mount. If the shaft is near 0 degree from the transfer case output, can I use normal pillow block or flange bearing? I'm thinking I better have the rubber to take any flex when driving on uneven terrain but I could rubber mount a PB.

Please post ideas or cardinal rules for design of the driveshaft. I'm leaning toward having a carrier.

For anyone considering putting their axle at the rear most position to match the M105 bed (the original post) it is my opinion that a carrier bearing and two driveshafts should be used.