replacing multifuel stop cable

[Robo McDuff]

The engine stop cable on the M51A2 broke (multifuel engine). As usually, this happened just before I left for the Czech Republic and I did not had time to seriously look into it. Off course it is impossible to get orignal new ones here in the Netherlands quick

Can you use any old new type of pulling cable (maybe from boot engines) for this or are there special attachements that makes it neceesary to buy original?

Who has them for a 1973 Kaiser M51 and can you buy them online?

 

[91W350]

Does it have to be a Multifuel cable? Would the Cummins cable be different? We have a few of those at the yard. Glen

 

[Robo McDuff]

No idea. The only problem might be how it is connected to the pump. The dash side can always be adapted or maybe relocated; the old one was half the time frozen and handled badly. Several times I needed additional tools to pull it out far enough, always in figh with the steering wheel, not an ideal place for a quick stop.

 

[goldneagle]

No idea. The only problem might be how it is connected to the pump. The dash side can always be adapted or maybe relocated; the old one was half the time frozen and handled badly. Several times I needed additional tools to pull it out far enough, always in figh with the steering wheel, not an ideal place for a quick stop.

I was able to repair my STOP cable assembly. I cut the old cable at the end of the shaft on the T handle. There is a 2nd hole on the side that you can see the end of the cable. Use a small round punch to remove the cable end through that hole. I bought a lawnmower throttle replacement cable and used it as the replacement cable for the STOP CABLE. You insert the cable end through the hole at the end of the T-handle and then using 2 punches from both sides of the T-handle and flatten the very end of the cable so it cannot pull back out of the hole.

You can shorten the cable assembly to match the original assembly.

 

[Robo McDuff]

The manual ...20P (parts) only shows parts numbers for the shutt-off valve, not for the cable.
The manual ...20 shows a perfect picture for the diesel, but something black and blurry for the multi-fuel (page 2-97). However, since they handle these things seperately, and the discripton is different, I would imagine they talk about different type of cables.

The diesel clearly can be repaired with any old type of cable, that section clearly talks about inserting the cable in a clamp on the pump. However, the multifuel section seems to talk about a fixed-length cable without adjustment possiblities on the pump itself.

Muti-fuelers, any experience with this?

Glen, thanks for the offer, I keep looking into it.
Goldneagle, on which kind of truck-enigine you repaired the cable?

 

[goldneagle]

I have a M52A2 with the same multi fuel! The cable hookup is the same as the Deuce (M35A2). The part that goes to the pump is just like any cable used to control a lawn mower. There is a clamp that hold the outer shield of the cable and a screw that grabs the inner core of the cable on the pump itself.

The cable can be easily shortened to fit if you pull the inner core further into the outer shield to cut the shield to length first. That is done by pulling the handle side of the choke cable and then cutting the access shield. After that you push the inner cable all the way back in and cut it to length that reaches the connection on the pump. There is not much skill required to do this! Saturn Surplus sells the complete Kill assembly for the multi-fuel.

 

[Robo McDuff]

This is good info, thanks.

.......Saturn Surplus sells the complete Kill assembly for the multi-fuel.

Too bad we don't have them in Europe.

 

[frank8003]

View attachment engine stop go cables 04282019.pdf

 

[Floridianson]

Here is a pic of just a standard locking pull type I googled for 18 bucks. You can get a locking one that when you leave the truck after use it stays locked in the shut down position. We want this so if the fuel control assembly ever sticks it is stuck in shut down not wide open throttle.
Now if you can not find the locking type you can just make something to hold the cable in the shut down position or pulled out. The end of the cable just goes through the fitting on the shut down cover as seen in the pic. Once you have the cable installed correct and clamped down just put a little bend in the end in case the screw lets loose the cable will not slip out of the fitting / shut down rod.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its only been 7 or so years, i bet he found something already.

 

[Floridianson]

Good info for the newbie's that do a search if nothing else. We see more OP's not leaving the stop cable pulled out and motors going to wide open throttle because of a stuck fuel control assembly's.

 

[frank8003]

Good info for the newbie's that do a search if nothing else. We see more OP's not leaving the stop cable pulled out and motors going to wide open throttle because of stuck fuel control assembly's.

Yes, I sent the PDF in post #8 to a "newbie", He is not on SS, that has a truck whereas the dash end handle teeth mechanism has failed and won't stay out. Trying to show that a whole new one can be had for cheap. Only about 70 miles a year and He has done only cosmetic maintenance in two years, doesn't read TM's. I was instructing Him to NOT leave it in gear when parked.
I didn't find anywhere else good to post the information. A revived old thread is still good sometimes.

 

[Floridianson]

Yep if it was bumped or rolled in gear and shut down left in it could drive away ghost rider style. Even worse ghost rider and wide open throttle.