New (to me) MEP-802A

[Sgt Jiggins]

Hello Folks,

Been enjoying watching this subforum while the right MEP-802A crossed my path. Well, just recently, that occurred and I now have my own MEP-802A mounted on a M116A3. I don't harbor any delusions that because it's mine it's somehow perfect, but I do think (hope?) I did ok with this purchase.

It's a 2003 unit with 726 hours on the clock. The batteries are presently hooked to my no.co gen2 to see if they can be recovered. They're military contract lead acid Exide units. They're no Hawker 6TLs, but, so far, so good- they 'seem' to be taking a charge for almost 14 hours now. Anybody found AGMs that fit and they like?

It needs coolant, and I want to change the oil/filters. Any input on where to get filters/what oil folks run/what coolant... would be super helpful. Ideally, I'd like to run Delo 400 15w40 diesel formulation in it if possible so that I reduce the variety of oils I keep on hand. And Prestone green coolant seems to be ok for most other applications for me thus far... is that ok in this, too? Does NAPA stock filters? Is there any xfer data published anywhere?

I'm going to drain the diesel from the tank to ensure there's no water in it. Which leaves me with the opportunity to do any related maintenance in that area. Well nut replacement? I've seen people saying that may be overkill? I'm open to ideas? Maybe it's already been done at the depot... what should I look for?

That's about all I can even think to say at this point. Would love it if you guys would take a look at some pics of the genset (trailer pics coming) and hopefully give suggestions:

This first one kept my attention for 800 miles of I40 while dragging it home. For what it's worth, it looks like it last went through a depot in the end of 2017. I know there are some mods (fuses, ...) folks mention - my hope is that this late date encompasses those. And in the storage bins are various TMs and paperwork for long-term storage. That was a relief to find.



What struck me when I first opened the engine bay hatch was just how physically small the engine is. I don't know what I was expecting, but this surprised me somehow. I also really like all the thought that went into positioning/access/routing. Having worked on all kinds of equipment that left me wondering "who would design such a thing?!", this was a very welcome sight!



Just kind of walking around the genset taking photos of what I could see/get my phone into.



Looking at the lugs on this- what do folks do to terminate stuff here? I'm hoping to come up with a relatively easy way to put some kind of NEMA plug/adapter on here and use a short cord to hook it to a ATS. I'd like to use this approach because it's on a trailer that I'd like to be able to loan to family/friends/disaster relief. Thoughts?





I've heard of folks putting bright(er) LEDs into the display panels. Thoughts? I'd love to do red if possible...





I've also heard of folks hooking large(r) (6"?) exhaust pipes up to this. That might be a good option for me when using it to power my house as it will be living under my deck. Input?



Anybody mounted a no.co genm2 onboard to keep their batteries charged?



Anybody found good fittings to use when hooking up an external source? I'll plumb it to either a 55g metal drum or an IBC of biodiesel.



And the plate:



Thank you!
SJ/JD

 

[Light in the Dark]

Optima Yellowtops are the factory issued batteries. Group 51 and 51R (reversed post layout). Good to have one of each kind, due to how they mount, and how they wire up. Find the biggest CCA Group 51/R you can and run them.

There is a thread Daybreak always posts to filters/coolant/etc. All your info is in there. But any good quality 15W40 rated for diesels will work, prestone green is just fine. Some folks bash Delo, I've never run it (I use Rotella in my machines) so I can't comment on that.

 

[Light in the Dark]

A lot of points in your thread, so sorry to break up the responses. You can mount up a NEMA connector box on your machine, so you can use a standard NEMA L14-30 generator cord, or you can make a short custom cord (with a female plug end) that would do the same thing, but a little bit different way. It would be raw leads that attach to the lugs you photographed.

I mounted a NOCO in my 802. Let me find the thread... I mounted it on the oil fill side door.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Your machine does not have the quad fuse modification done. Its well worth your time and effort to do it before you turn the machine on again. Look that phrase up here, to find the parts you need. Simple modification, big potential $$ safety addition.

 

[Light in the Dark]

The fitting on the auxiliary fuel input is AN-5, which you aren't going to find hardly anywhere. The civilian equivalent is JIC 5/16. Here is the info on the NOCO setup I have: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ump-Starting&p=2179598&viewfull=1#post2179598

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Thank you for all that, Light in the Dark!

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Your machine does not have the quad fuse modification done. Its well worth your time and effort to do it before you turn the machine on again.

I am in no hurry what-so-ever to start it up, so yes, I will be doing that mod first. Researching that tonight.

I'm going to be integrating a remote start board from kloppk. Once that is installed, I plan to install the no.co gen2m mod you did as well (I particularly like your molded male plug/adapter idea). Just need to find out where all the parts fit best.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

It's a "STICKY"

MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts

2nd post has quick links to stuff. At the top of the 2nd post is your info for the fuse mod. Don't run your unit until you have it done.

 

[Guyfang]

I am going to insert a few words here and there. LID and Mike have already added some comments, so if I list it again, its because I am old.

Hello Folks,

Been enjoying watching this subforum while the right MEP-802A crossed my path. Well, just recently, that occurred and I now have my own MEP-802A mounted on a M116A3. I don't harbor any delusions that because it's mine it's somehow perfect, but I do think (hope?) I did ok with this purchase.

It's a 2003 unit with 726 hours on the clock. The batteries are presently hooked to my no.co gen2 to see if they can be recovered. They're military contract lead acid Exide units. They're no Hawker 6TLs, but, so far, so good- they 'seem' to be taking a charge for almost 14 hours now. Anybody found AGMs that fit and they like? Like LID said, Optima are the standard, and I like them very much. If you can recover these, fine. The Army put them in toward the end of the gen set life cycle, because they were cheaper, and they have tons of them.

It needs coolant, and I want to change the oil/filters. Any input on where to get filters/what oil folks run/what coolant... would be super helpful. Ideally, I'd like to run Delo 400 15w40 diesel formulation in it if possible so that I reduce the variety of oils I keep on hand. And Prestone green coolant seems to be ok for most other applications for me thus far... is that ok in this, too? Does NAPA stock filters? Is there any xfer data published anywhere? Read Mikes thread, it has EVERYTHING you need to know about filters etc.

I'm going to drain the diesel from the tank to ensure there's no water in it. Which leaves me with the opportunity to do any related maintenance in that area. Well nut replacement? I've seen people saying that may be overkill? I'm open to ideas? Maybe it's already been done at the depot... what should I look for? If you empty the tank, clean it out, like your dinner plate. Look for "extra" parts and junk in the tank. If it were mine, and I was going to keep it, yeah, the well nut thing is a good idea. Now its a controled situation. At 03:00, its a catastrophe.

That's about all I can even think to say at this point. Would love it if you guys would take a look at some pics of the genset (trailer pics coming) and hopefully give suggestions:

This first one kept my attention for 800 miles of I40 while dragging it home. For what it's worth, it looks like it last went through a depot in the end of 2017. I know there are some mods (fuses, ...) folks mention - my hope is that this late date encompasses those. And in the storage bins are various TMs and paperwork for long-term storage. That was a relief to find.

View attachment 768761

What struck me when I first opened the engine bay hatch was just how physically small the engine is. I don't know what I was expecting, but this surprised me somehow. I also really like all the thought that went into positioning/access/routing. Having worked on all kinds of equipment that left me wondering "who would design such a thing?!", this was a very welcome sight!

View attachment 768762
1. Hose clamp on fuel line not mounted. 2.
Fix the electric fuel pump wires. Use removable connectors. Then should you ever need to replace the pump, no need to cut wires AGAIN.

Just kind of walking around the genset taking photos of what I could see/get my phone into.

View attachment 768763

Looking at the lugs on this- what do folks do to terminate stuff here? I'm hoping to come up with a relatively easy way to put some kind of NEMA plug/adapter on here and use a short cord to hook it to a ATS. I'd like to use this approach because it's on a trailer that I'd like to be able to loan to family/friends/disaster relief. Thoughts?

View attachment 768764

View attachment 768766
1. Missing R/S sound insulating padding.
2. Wire harness rubbing on air intake housing. Remember, this thing vibrates a bit.
I've heard of folks putting bright(er) LEDs into the display panels. Thoughts? I'd love to do red if possible...
Red is normally reserved for FAULTS, WARNING and the like. Do what you like. There is a nice thread about putting lights in the meters. You are not in the army, so probaly do not need to hide.

View attachment 768767
Missing the L/S insulating pad, just like the R/S
View attachment 768771 1. Old style S1 and S6. Not a fault, but be advised that they can go bad/break. If you find the new style, at a price you can get along with, it might be a good idea to get them, and keep them on the shelf. But dont run out and pay a mint for them.
View attachment 768772 View attachment 7687731. Quad fuse missing and MOV missing.


I've also heard of folks hooking large(r) (6"?) exhaust pipes up to this. That might be a good option for me when using it to power my house as it will be living under my deck. Input?

View attachment 768774
All the fasteners are rusty. No big deal, till you want to remove them. Then, lots of them can break off. There is a thread about new ones. If you take the time and effort, to repair something else, then you can always slip in the new one. Nothing more frustrating then fixing something, and then have to put off finsihing the job, because you are missing 10-15 screws and nuts.
Anybody mounted a no.co genm2 onboard to keep their batteries charged?

View attachment 768775View attachment 768776
Give it a good bath. then start looking for leaks.
Anybody found good fittings to use when hooking up an external source? I'll plumb it to either a 55g metal drum or an IBC of biodiesel. I would use the army Aux hose and 55 gal bung. say what you will, it works.

View attachment 768777

And the plate:

View attachment 768778

Thank you!
SJ/JD

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Thank you Light in the Dark, Daybreak and Guyfang! It's folks like you who make this site such an awesome resource. Best, SJ/JD

 

[LEOK]

Good thing I was bored last night and read this thread. I bought a unit from the guy in Lake City Florida 1996 with 1760 hours, he supposedly went through everything, it is spotlessly clean and repainted exterior. However I've found that it won't warm up, so ordered a new thermostat, and discovered it does not have quad fuse or MOV updates. So I found all the parts on Ebay. A BIG THANK YOU ALL for all your shared knowledge, I believe it will be needed this year in Florida.

 

[69birdman]

I noticed inside the control panel, the phase selector switch is set for 120/240 1ph, make sure the am/vm switch on control panel matches. It's currently in 3ph. Be gentle with the switches Guyfang pointed out.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Good catch 69birdman. If you are intending to use this as a 120/240 machine Sgt Jiggins, you are going to want to change your AM/VM switch on the faceplate over to the 3 o'clock position. That is the right spot for reading the powered lugs, in single phase (if you examine the markings around the AM/VM, you will see it calls out volts to L1 and L3, and phase being 1).

 

[mcii]

Dang I missd this, but I think 69birdman Guyfang and light in the dark just made life easy for the Sergeant about his meter problem that is just good ole observation and still making 2+2=4 the best fix of all.. thanx to each of you, good spot ... or at least till the Sgt pops back up and sez no deal, it was not operator error..
best: mac/mc

 

[mcii]

I ask this question from having a very positive experience, and I think it was with the person in Lake City Fl and if not him im pretty sure someone can help me. I made contact with this seller and as I said had a very good experience and as well he sent me some particular information I asked him to. BUT I have lost the name and email address. The person I am trying to find does fix up MEP sets and does what I thought and observed as first class work, including paint over clean up and of course sales, I know he is in the South, I did see a sort U Tube video he made wherein he was delivering a set to a purchaser. But as I said I have lost my contact info and as a result the information he furnished to me that I really want to find and use. thanx in advance for helping me on this .. best: mac/mc

 

[LEOK]

Anthony @ 386-362-8259 live oak Florida, he is on Craigslist and has two mep's 10k & 15k for sale

https://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/d/live-oak-10kw-military-diesel-generator/6919964259.html


​

 

[lonesouth]

you don't HAVE to go with optimas. I'm using a pair of the cheapest lawn mower batteries available from wal-mart and spent the money I saved on a 24v battery tender. These ought to only need to crank about 3-5 times to start, so reserve in a yellow top is not needed. It is a 2 cylinder diesel, it's not like the starter is huge like you'd find on 6 liter diesel truck, so CCA is not needed. The only thing a bigger, more expensive battery, will get you, is cranking it longer when it isn't starting like it should.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I think it depends on location. I wouldn't run low CCA batteries in New England. FL.... yeah can probably get away with it. But not for winter use.

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Good catch 69birdman. If you are intending to use this as a 120/240 machine Sgt Jiggins, you are going to want to change your AM/VM switch on the faceplate over to the 3 o'clock position. That is the right spot for reading the powered lugs, in single phase (if you examine the markings around the AM/VM, you will see it calls out volts to L1 and L3, and phase being 1).

Thanks birdman and LITD. I don't know why, but for some reason the previous use of it was 1PH 120VAC. I flipped it over to 1PH 120/240VAC. And didn't move the dial on the front panel once I buttoned it up. I will before firing. Right now I'm waiting for the quad fuse and MOV parts to come in. And changing the oil, coolant and filters. $60 at Napa for all the filter wasn't bad. It was the air filter ($32) that was the biggest single ticket item.

The original lead acid batteries are slowly coming back to life. I'm going to hold off putting Optimas in it before spending any more $... I still don't know if I have a good stator yet.

Worst case, I have a good parts donor while Iook for another MEP-802A. Best case, I'm into the MEP-802A and M116A3 for about $2k total (including filters, parts, fluids, ...). I'd be very happy with that if that's the case.

SJ/JD

 

[LEOK]

I think AGM are wrong for these machines, the charger doesn't put out enough voltage to keep them fully charged. OK if you use a tender to keep them topped. I found a 24vdc charger from SmartGen on ebay for $50 has adjustable voltage and current and is OK to leave on when Gen is running