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Fuel filter and fuel pump mod

mmcwill56

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North Olympic Peninsula, WA
Broke down 800 miles from home 8 days ago in Napa California in my 1984 m1008. Happened at intersection in front of Walmart. Pushed truck into parking lot and have been working on it ever since. I figured it was a fuel delivery problem so I bought what I needed to change fuel filter to spin on and electric fuel pump. Had not a single tool with me and temps were well in to the 100° range. Been sleeping in truck and working on hot asphalt has left me feeling a little down. Sure could use a real meal and a shower. No money for any of that though spend it up on parts.
 

mmcwill56

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North Olympic Peninsula, WA
Is there 1/8 inch spacer between the fuel pump and the block. I just removed the old fuel pump and there is a lip that makes it seem so. I have a block off plate for a small block and it has 4 holes in it and there is two smaller bolts below the two bolts that held the pump on.
 
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TGP (IL)

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Metro East IL
Yes there is a plate that needs to come off,then remove the push rod.
It will probably fall out.

Install your block off plate with sealant.

Tom
 

NDT

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Hope it’s not your injection pump failed. You will know very soon.
I take my tool bag even going around the block. You never know with these old trucks.
 

mmcwill56

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North Olympic Peninsula, WA
Still at it here in Napa. Living in truck in parking lot of Walmart. No shade, temp in high 90° to 100°. Have completed the following field repairs, doghead relay mod, new elec fuel pump and electric circuit pulling power from fuse block inside cab and following speedo cable with hot to pump and prefilter inside passenger frame rail where fuel lines come across from tank, new plumbing from tank to injection pump including new spin o0n filter base and filter, removed mechanical fuel pump and installed block off plate, removed all old steel fuel line plumbing, removed two brown paper grocery bags stuffed full of electrical wiring left behind by the two previous fire departments that had possession of the truck, removed step down resisters for glow plugs and ran 12v lead from from front battery + to 12v j block above existing solenoid, lead from existing solenoid to 12v j block. I need to wire in a manual glow plug interrupter push button switch now but forgot the best easiest way. I read someplace where I could grab shot at the card and jump it or interrupt there with a lead coming off a purple pink blue some fuc ing color wire at the card to a button. There is a connector at the back of the engine with the other connectors that has is not plugged into anything that has a jumper with a little resistor on it, I forgot the wiring color going into it but I was wondering what it was. Need to throw power to the system this am Sir and get the f out of here. I've defended against roving bands of street thugs, mentally unstable homeless, dope fein thieves stealing my tools and Blackstone style security forces hired by Walmart that had dogged me for 15 days until they did something stupid and found out I was a 35 year veteran of fire service in California and worked with and for the most decorated fire officer in California and possibly the USA,
Chief William "Bill" Clayton, look him up. I was his Administrative Captain and ran a 120 person conservation camp / fire camp with all fire fighting equipment.
 

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russojap

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Knoxville TN
Sorry about your situation, dumb question though, why did you feel it was necessary to covert to a spin on filter instead of just replacing the OEM? I would have left that thing a time ago under those circumstances and worried about getting it back later.

Frankly, I would have taken a rental car to begin with, I never drive my own vehicles much over than the 200 mile AAA tow limit. Can you take a picture of the truck? Does it have a camper top?


I would really like to see what the area you're in looks like though. From what I've found, it doesn't look like the kind of place that would even have a Wal-Mart.

california-napa.jpgVC_NapaSpotlight_Module4_DowntownNapa_Stock_RM_BP8CEE_1280x640.jpg
 
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Curtisje

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Okinawa, Japan
I read someplace where I could grab shot at the card and jump it or interrupt there with a lead coming off a purple pink blue some fuc ing color wire at the card to a button.
Doghead answered that question in your other post. It's the blue wire.

"You can use whatever you want to, just wire it accordingly.

Know that relays are not all the same.

The stock system and relay has an isolated ground relay. It is activated by grounding the relay coil(as the coil is isolated from the mount).

So, with the stock system wiring and relay, simply momentarily ground the light blue wire to ground and the relay should activate.

No need to remove any of the original wiring to do this. "




Good luck.
 
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russojap

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Location
Knoxville TN
No camper. Truck is in f red with FDA decals. First thing I did was replace filter. That was not the problem and I kept getting air in the system, no fuel coming out of vent.
Ok thanks, that makes sense, I thought the FIRST thing you did was start with the spin on mod. That seemed a little strange in a break down situation.
 

Curtisje

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Okinawa, Japan
Wing and a prayer this old boy starts today any questions, suggestions, digressions or regurgitation of misunderstood mods please say something before I power up the truck.
Did you crack open the rear driver side injector line to bleed the air from the fuel injection system?
 

Terracoma

Member
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Location
Albuquerque, NM
I need to wire in a manual glow plug interrupter push button switch now but forgot the best easiest way. I read someplace where I could grab shot at the card and jump it or interrupt there with a lead coming off a purple pink blue some fuc ing color wire at the card to a button.
The glow plug relay has two small terminals with two small wires attached: the positive wire (+) is pink with a black stripe, and the negative wire (-) is light blue... To manually close the relay with the key turned forward to the "on/run" position, you simply need to connect the the light blue wire to ground.

You can either splice the light blue wire under the dash (near the glow plug controller card), or you can splice at the GP relay itself... In your situation, I would splice at or very near the GP relay to eliminate any doubts about the truck's original wiring under the dash. Splice or interrupt the light blue wire, connect the splice to one side of your new push button switch, and connect the other side of your switch to ground.

If you cannot get the relay to close with a manual switch interrupting the light blue wire, you will need to verify that you are getting voltage at the pink/black wire with key turned to "on/run"... The relay will not close without (+) power applied to one terminal, and (-) ground through the second terminal.



There is a connector at the back of the engine with the other connectors that has is not plugged into anything that has a jumper with a little resistor on it, I forgot the wiring color going into it but I was wondering what it was.
Should be the water-in-fuel circuit's diode, based on the location... See the attached photo, below.

You can ignore this connector for now, since you converted to a spin-on fuel filter.



WaterInFuel Diode.jpg



Need to throw power to the system this am Sir and get the f out of here.
First order of business is to bleed the new fuel filter. Second order of business is to verify functionality of the glow plug relay.

To better help you troubleshoot a no-start or no-run condition, we need to know if you're getting fuel to the injectors, and if the glow plugs are firing. Posting photos can also help us see what you're seeing.





I would really like to see what the area you're in looks like though. From what I've found, it doesn't look like the kind of place that would even have a Wal-Mart.
He's north of oldtown/downtown, in a not-so-picturesque mixed business and light industrial district... Probably fine in the daytime, but with a distinctly different clientele at night, especially that close to the river.
 

mmcwill56

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North Olympic Peninsula, WA
Just to know you guys are there and reading the thread is huge. Thank you all for being there, and have that Chaplin open up his direct line to the head honcho. I'm worn out from 3 weeks of this. Thanks again. This is it for me last attempt today after this today is over so am I if it won't run.only 30,000 on this rig.
 

NDT

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Camp Wood/LC, TX
Might have 30,000 but injection pump could be 36 years old and its full of plastic parts that break and then it won’t run. Maybe where you are is a repair shop that specializes in diesels, get it towed there and kick back in a hotel room while they fix it. It’s about a half a day work to swap the ip. Not super easy job. Good luck, hang in there, we’re rooting for you.
 

mmcwill56

New member
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Location
North Olympic Peninsula, WA
There was a small relay the size of half my little finger on the firewall behind brake master cylinder. Not sure if that was some fire department add on or part of original system. It wires and it were just dangling loose and didn't seem to go anywhere so I removed it.
 
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