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Bumper-pull camper behind a deuce?

HDN

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Finger Lakes Region, NY
My wife and I thought it would be cool to pull a camper behind a deuce for some camping trips. Our camper of choice would be some kind of bumper-pulled trailer. I know that a deuce sits up a bit higher than regular pickups, so are there hitch adapters available that go from a ball hitch to the higher-up pintle hook? Or would I just modify the hitch on the camper tongue to be a pintle ring that just sits higher to connect to the deuce?
 

Slate

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Ozona Texas
My wife and I thought it would be cool to pull a camper behind a deuce for some camping trips. Our camper of choice would be some kind of bumper-pulled trailer. I know that a deuce sits up a bit higher than regular pickups, so are there hitch adapters available that go from a ball hitch to the higher-up pintle hook? Or would I just modify the hitch on the camper tongue to be a pintle ring that just sits higher to connect to the deuce?
Curt class IV fit just fine on mine.IMG_20190802_163712643.jpgIMG_20190802_163728041.jpg

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

Nomad1

Member
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4
18
Location
Conway NH
You could install a a reciever to the frame and use the appropriate hitch. Also keep in mine u'll have to set the wiring correctly for the trailer and add a brake controller if needed.
 

Karl kostman

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Fargo ND
On my 5 ton I just pulled the pintle hitch out there is a big nut and a cotter pin on the back side and had a welding shop use the same diameter metal as the pintle is and build a drop assembly on it with a receiver on the bottom then you can take the receiver off your pickup and install it on your truck its built very strong and has been extremely useful. The wiring on the back of your truck is all set up for 24 volt, I bought a voltage reducer devise that integrated into the wiring harnes and it allowed me to pull trailer wires out and isolate them and this device reduced them to 12 volt it was easy but I paid way to much for getting it done like this , research this because I think some new stuff has come out that will get what you need to you trailer for much less than I paid!
Good luck and have fun camping!!
Karl
 

montaillou

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Location
W.WA
If you have a standard square hitch, there are variable height receivers. Make some measurements and make sure you find one that has a good range.
 

Nomad1

Member
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4
18
Location
Conway NH
You can put in a inverter,24v/12v alternator or a 2nd 12v alternator depending on your needs. My advice is make sure what you setup works and you don't just out grow the system in short order. The cheapests route can get expensive but the high end might be totally unnecesary.
 

Big Tom

Active member
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Location
Millington md
0FB0655F-6323-47B0-9B2D-CA05ABB872A5.jpgI tow mine all the time made custom receiver hitch, added a 12v Alternator motor , use 24 volt relays to work trailer lights , and trailer brake controller

Big Tom
 

HDN

Well-known member
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Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
While looking over the M35A3 I'm considering buying, I noticed that it has air brake gladhands on the back. Does anyone know of any campers or kits for camper brakes that would allow me to use an air-over-hydraulic brake system on a camper?
 

rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
While looking over the M35A3 I'm considering buying, I noticed that it has air brake gladhands on the back. Does anyone know of any campers or kits for camper brakes that would allow me to use an air-over-hydraulic brake system on a camper?
There was a kit several years ago that did just that. I cannot remember the companies name, though you might find it with Google.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
I also want to take a moment and thank "cattlerepairman" personally for helping me find that rare TM 9-8623 manual. He went and made a copy of one that was up there in a Canadian museum.
Thank you Martin ! I had been searching for that manual for almost ten years now. Really made my day to finally be able to read it !
Your an "Officer and a Gentleman ! " I salute you !!!!
 

John Mc

Well-known member
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Location
Monkton, VT
There are some good options for the electrical part of towing a 12V trailer behind your 24V tow vehicle.

For the trailer lights, member @mikew makes 24V to 12V trailer light converter cables that will run your 12 V trailer lights off the 24v trailer connector on your vehicle. He also sells a frame mounted version for a permanent installation. From what I can tell, none of these interfere with the original trailer connector on your vehicle. No new wires to run in your truck, assuming you alread have lights/blinkers on the truck.

For trailer brakes, the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite Brake Controller will accept either a 12V or a 24V input and output a signal appropriate for 12V trailer brakes. It will also operate in either proportional mode (best for on-road towing) or in "user controlled" (a.k.a. Time Delay mode - better for off-road situations, since rough terrain can confuse a proportional controller). The main control box is mounted remotely, with only a small control knob on the dash.

I've ordered the frame-mounted version of the lighting cable, and the Redarc controller for my M37. I expect the cable in any day now, and "Mrs. Santa Claus" has hinted that I'm getting the controller for Christmas.
 
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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Monrovia, Ca.
While looking over the M35A3 I'm considering buying, I noticed that it has air brake gladhands on the back. Does anyone know of any campers or kits for camper brakes that would allow me to use an air-over-hydraulic brake system on a camper?
M105 type trailers are plentiful. One could rob the air over hyd system off of one of those, get some hydraulic backing plates from a pick a part and put them on your trailer. If it is a 2 axle trailer, make one axle air/hyd and the other civi electric brakes.
 

Jericho

Well-known member
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Location
Landaff NH
I think the guys covered the mechanical aspects, I used too tow a 36 foot travel trailer behind My M-109A3. the biggest thing I found that needed attention was being careful not to cut to far when turning and backing, It seemed the trailer came around fast when it started to turn, With a radio box on it was hard to judge turning angles on the hitch, Backing and turning could be a challenge with no power steering, I have plenty of power for every day ops, Shift down ,shift down. on hills. It towed well I could still get up to 56 MPH but it really liked 51mph. Corners could be a different matter. I t didn't like tight corners on narrow twisty roads. If the sign says caution twisty road 35 MPH do 20MPH . My gross trailer weight was around 8.5 k on average. well within the deuces operating limits. Then before I sold it and bought a retirement 40 foot class A diesel pusher I towed it behind my M-931A2 Completely new experience, Didn't even know it was there. game changer!
 
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