Where do you draw the line $$$

[Daves86]

Hadn't thought about a second winch. Let's see if this repair works.
Here is where the water was Here is where the water wasn't
This is a stuck motor With it removed the winch turns freely, but it won't turn at all.
Gonna get a winch motor and gasket kit (and a ton of brake cleaner to clean this up) and see what happens from there.

 

[TOBASH]

Hadn't thought about a second winch. Let's see if this repair works.
Here is where the water wasView attachment 781134 Here is where the water wasn'tView attachment 781135
This is a stuck motorView attachment 781136 With it removed the winch turns freely, but it won't turn at all.
Gonna get a winch motor and gasket kit (and a ton of brake cleaner to clean this up) and see what happens from there.

i would soak the frozen motor in penetrating oil and see if she comes apart. Likely the iron/steel in The stator is rusted and likely bearings are rusted. If you can pull apart you might be able to re-use.

You need to establish where water got in so it won’t happen again.

Best,

T

 

[cucvmule]

I agree with TOBASH.

Brake cleaner has its uses, but PB Blaster works for degrading rust. And helps with disassembly. Brake cleaner does clean, but rust forms the second that it dries out.

Some will agree, disagree but diesel fuel works for me for cleaning parts.

 

[Daves86]

Hadn't thought about soaking the motor. I ordered one last night (and gasket set with oil seal for the motor) less than $500 which meets my rebuild $$$ threshold if that's all it costs. Thanks to all for their inputs.

 

[frank8003]

One Harbor Fright winch might work a few times if one can get it in 24VDC.

 

[frank8003]

Then there is this.....
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61234-12v-winch-on-24v

 

[papakb]

The best penetrating oil I've ever used is KROIL. A little hard to find but there's nothing better.

 

[Daves86]

Found where the water came in
View attachment 781458 Should not see light thru a mounting hole. Fixed with JB weld. Still working on getting the drum removed, it is stuck good and the parts diagram is not helpful in showing how the thing comes apart, and the inner webs are not helping me. My GOOGLE-FU is not good these days. Will try pulling the gear tomorrow.

Did find a few threads here on different winch manufacturers, but I did not get a lot out of them. Time will tell.

 

[Daves86]

Anybody know how to separate the drum from the shaft? This key is staked and the ends are forked to not come out of the shaft key way. It is now I refuse to be defeated rather than a $$$ line.

 

[Coug]

on normal keys that won't come out of shafts I normally use a cold chisel at one end and tap it for a bit, trying to get it to move.
If I've tapped it enough that it slides but won't come out I start using the notch cut by the cold chisel to start prying on it, unlerss it's wide enough that I can get a smaller cold chisel in there and use that to start digging underneath it.

Don't know if that will work on the one you've got though, but it's a thought.

 

[TOBASH]

I might unspool the cable first and look at the drum.

 

[Daves86]

Thanks Coug! Hammer and chisel got the key out.

Still cannot get the drum off the shaft. Tried removing the cable and bouncing the shaft end on board to let brute force and gravity. I will not be defeated! Just sharing my frustrations with the joy of fixin it myself. Next I am going to try a gear puller, see if that makes any more headway. Thanks for the ideas, keep 'em comming, lord knows I can use the help.

 

[Coug]

Soaking it in penetrating oil is about all you can do. I don't know if that shaft is tempered or not, so I'd be hesitant to use a lot of heat on it. A little bit might be okay, but not a whole lot.
Just soaking it and giving it time.

 

[TOBASH]

Do you or a friend have a hydraulic press? Seems safest. I would avoid heat.

what does the new motor look like and why are you pulling this apart?

 

[Daves86]

New motor has not showed up yet. Pulling this apart because it does not free spool. I think the drum is seized to the shaft. If the drum turns so do the drive gears and the motor. Don't think it is supposed to work that way. Was looking at getting a press for a different project, may have a second reason.

 

[TOBASH]

I might wait until you can confirm where freespooling takes place.

 

[Daves86]

Found what was stopping the free spool. Not the rust marks on the shaft that coincide with where the drum bushings sit
The end with the darker band is the non clutch end of the drum
the brass colored gear sits over the keys, the gear housing has a bushing and then the drum bushing was on the dark spot. Required a hydraulic press to get it apart (and to get it back together).

 

[Daves86]

Got the 2 drum bushings and the gear housing bushing replaced and got the electric motor installed today.

Hope to have it all done this weekend

 

[Daves86]

Well, testing proved the solenoids were shot as well. Putting 24v to motor terminals drives the motor which moved the main shaft to turn the winch in and out. New solenoid assembly was less than $200. In for a penny, why not in for more. Not sure where costing stands on this repair, I'm kinda at the I don't want to be defeated phase. Pics to follow. Hope to have it back in the truck this weekend. weather dependent (I'm working in the driveway cause the truck won't fit in the single garage door).

 

[Daves86]

So it was 67 degrees in NOVA today and I got to work on the winch some more. Its fully assembled and when it went back in it DID NOT fit. New electric motor has different electrical connection locations and there was an interfacing issue