Buzzing

[Hmmv4me]

Hi All, I took the M998 out today and put it away. Went back out the the shop later and was working on something and noticed a short 1 second buzz/vibration noise coming from the HMMWV. I didn't have time to trace it down but it was only happening once every 3 or 4 minutes. Anybody run into this? Wierd right?

 

[Wire Fox]

Only device that buzzes for me is the S3 control box. It shouldn't be happening while everything is off. What have you modified with regard to electrical switching? Any aftermarket switches?

As well, are you 100% sure that everything is correctly switched off?

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[Hmmv4me]

Hmmm, i do have an aftermarket key switch. I'll double check it.

 

[Wire Fox]

Hmmm, i do have an aftermarket key switch. I'll double check it.

These aftermarket key switches are proving to have a remarkably high failure rate. Tons of unintented activations. There's a report of a key switch failure about every 3-4 weeks. It's wild for how simple of a device these are that they'd fail so often.

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[papakb]

Those of you who want to install a keyswitch in your trucks should avoid any of the cheap imports and stick with something like the Grote 82-2156 universal ignition switch. A quality product that won't give you headaches.

Sorry for the number screwup. It should have been 82-2156 instead of 81-2156.

 

[Wire Fox]

Those of you who want to install a keyswitch in your trucks should avoid any of the cheap imports and stick with something like the Grote 81-2156 universal ignition switch. A quality product that won't give you headaches.

Thanks for the lead on this. It looks the the PN is actually 82-2156, but the info given was definitely close enough to lead me to the switch you're talking about.

 

[badgerd]

Does it fit well in the place of the original switch?

Those of you who want to install a keyswitch in your trucks should avoid any of the cheap imports and stick with something like the Grote 81-2156 universal ignition switch. A quality product that won't give you headaches.

 

[papakb]

Other than you will have to add wiring to adapt to the HMMWV electrical system it fits right in. Places online like Erik's surplus have the connectors.

 

[Wire Fox]

Other than you will have to add wiring to adapt to the HMMWV electrical system it fits right in. Places online like Erik's surplus have the connectors.

Really? No drilling to fit that switch? If that's the case, then dang! Why haven't I installed one two years ago?

 

[Hmmv4me]

Thanks for the lead on this. It looks the the PN is actually 82-2156, but the info given was definitely close enough to lead me to the switch you're talking about.

Bought mine off of fleabay with a 1 year warranty. Tired to exercise the warranty and this guy won't even accept emails. Fleabay says I am SOL ans so does pay pal. Oh well, live and learn. Going to look into the one your talking about. The broken one I have has all of the connectors already so should be good there. Beware of Power-Bulbs I guess...

 

[badgerd]

Can confirm Grote switch does NOT drop right in. Measures .980 diameter. Well built but drill required. I'm making a bracket to hide under the dash and leave the original in place. If it falls the original spare will already be there. Pics once I get it done.

 

[Hmmv4me]

I had to drill mine out for the cheapo switch too.

 

[86humv]

Most, if not all those cheap switches will fail.

 

[Hmmv4me]

Picked one up on Amazon cheaper that the cheapo one I bought on fleabay.

 

[Wire Fox]

Picked one up on Amazon cheaper that the cheapo one I bought on fleabay.

View attachment 786600

Now you're just making those eBay peddlers look bad. I like it. Keep up the good work.

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[badgerd]

That’s the same seller I just got mine from. #10 studs with no washers, but well built. I’m hoping to finish my install today.

Picked one up on Amazon cheaper that the cheapo one I bought on fleabay.

View attachment 786600

 

[papakb]

So once again it proves that quality and cheap don't have to be mutually exclusive! After reading hundreds of posts online it seems to indicate that vehicle owners are so anxious to upgrade their trucks that they take the first part that comes along. Definitely something that a little patience and research would help. At least we are also seeing people ask more questions here. Something that definitely helps.

 

[badgerd]

Installed today, hidden under dash because I don't want to drill the original hole larger. Left the "acc" position open. Just a piece of aluminum I bent in a vice to match the contour of the dash, two sheet metal screws to attach and a large hole for the switch itself. Pics when they load.

Works great, only question is the longevity of the switch (another reason I left the original switch, so I can get home if it fails).

 

[papakb]

I've built panels for friends that mount to the A pillar with the bolts for the door travel limiter straps alongside the dash panel that have a keyswitch and maybe 1 or 2 more switches in them for whatever they want to use them for. The keyswitch interrupts the +24v power on the 11A lead to the normal ignition switch to enable or disable it. The advantage is that everything looks completely normal on the dash. You want to rivet a short panel on the bottom of the panel to keep people from reaching up behind the panel to get to the switch.