Just purchased a 1986 CUCV D30, 6.2L diesel for my son (first car).

[gabe]

Just purchased a 1986 CUCV D30, 6.2L diesel for my son (first car).

Brought home and speedometer was not working.

Changed the speedometer cable and now all of a sudden wait light will not go out and solenoid does not click when key is turned (worked prior to changing the speedo cable).
Checked the glow plug card and noticed a burnt resister so went and bought a new card ( from Hill Billy Wizard) and in the mean time hooked up work around (aka spring button to blue post and ground) which worked.
Few days latter the new card came in, plugged it in, 3 LED lights illuminated on the card however wait light still does not go off and still do not hear solenoid click. The installed button workaround still works.
any one have any thoughts as I am becoming extremely frustrated? thanks

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Welcome to the site. I’d be looking at the glow plug relay itself, if you haven’t already. Maybe try tapping on it with the key on and see if it engages.

 

[gabe]

Welcome to the site. I’d be looking at the glow plug relay itself, if you haven’t already. Maybe try tapping on it with the key on and see if it engages.

If the relay was the issue wouldn't it also cause issues when using the "bypass button"?

 

[sneekyeye]

I would start checking the wiring between the glow plug controller and the relay first. Make sure you have continuity between the controller and the relay on the light blue, and pink/blk wires. Those two wires complete the circuit and trigger the relay to close. Pink/blk should be the 12v supply. and the light blue the ground side closed by the controller.

If i have written incorrect info, someone correct me. From what i can tell of the diagram, this is how it is supposed to work. Mine is wired with a toggle, and has never had a functioning glow plug controller since I've had it. It triggers the relay and grounds the wait light.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Mine is wired with a toggle,

Bad idea. You want a momentary switch. A toggle is an invitation to burnt GPs.

Gabe, before you do anything else, check the ground for the controller card. It's under the dash, up near the parking brake. You need to be on your back to find it. You are looking for a 6-prong connector. It may be the whole problem. If not, yes, look into that wiring.

But don't assume. Test that GP relay manually by applying 12v to the pink wire and ground to the blue. It should give a good, solid CLUNK.

By the way, it's not an 86.

 

[gabe]

Bad idea. You want a momentary switch. A toggle is an invitation to burnt GPs.

Gabe, before you do anything else, check the ground for the controller card. It's under the dash, up near the parking brake. You need to be on your back to find it. You are looking for a 6-prong connector. It may be the whole problem. If not, yes, look into that wiring.

But don't assume. Test that GP relay manually by applying 12v to the pink wire and ground to the blue. It should give a good, solid CLUNK.

By the way, it's not an 86.

You lost me on the "its not an 86" comment … please enlighten the uneducated.

FYI, the bypass I installed is a spring push button and not a toggle for the very same reason you suggest. … My son is 17 so making as easy (and dumb proof) as possible for him.

Will try and check out the wiring suggestions this weekend and respond back …. thanks for everyone's suggestions up to this point.

 

[sniderbm]

the short version of "it's not an 86" - while the civilian GM trucks may have had minor design tweaks from 84, 85, 86, etc. the CUCV's built in 85, 86 were built with the 1984 design so best practice when buying parts is to use the 1984 model year.

 

[cucvrus]

For a first truck a CUCV is a good work truck. I can almost guarantee you will be working on it all the time. I gave both my Sons a CUCV when they started driving and I worked on them all the time. Most times it was for fun and at this point 18 years later it is out of necessity. Good Luck. Try and keep it simple. Stock glow plug system is about as simple as it goes. The light says WAIT and you WAIT. The light goes out you start. All the guess work on glow time has been controlled my electronics. Crude dated electronics but none the less they work just fine when maintained.

 

[gabe]

the short version of "it's not an 86" - while the civilian GM trucks may have had minor design tweaks from 84, 85, 86, etc. the CUCV's built in 85, 86 were built with the 1984 design so best practice when buying parts is to use the 1984 model year.

good to know, thanks again

 

[Rutjes]

Crude dated electronics but none the less they work just fine when maintained.

That's what I love about these trucks! Pretty sure a lot of us do. No warning lights, errors on the onboard computer and/or limp mode cause some "advanced" electronic failed or got fed wrong readings.

About a month ago my Iveco Daily went into limp mode while on the highway and the red engine symbol lit up. I expected something bad and was immediately looking for another vehicle because my business is dependent on it. I finished work and went to my mechanic to hook it up to the laptop. Turned out that the oil change timer wasn't reset last year when I had someone else change the oil. How about an orange oil warning light Iveco!?

Btw., I did end up getting another vehicle 2 weeks ago. A 98 (99 on paper) K1500 6.5 TD. Great truck, but I don't enjoy it as much as I did my M1028, but at least I have something able to tow while I restore the M1028 (and maybe a donor turbo and 4L80E...).

Anyway, hope your son (and you) enjoy the truck!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

You lost me on the "its not an 86" comment … please enlighten the uneducated.

Just follow the link I posted. It's all explained. One of the marvels of the World Wide Web is that we can provide links, instead of duplicating information over and over.