• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M929A2 starter issues, need advice.

C

Coleslaw

New member
1
0
1
Location
North Carolina
I've got a 2007 M929a2 that the starter was staying engaged after releasing the start switch, needless to say the starter (not by me) was left running for who knows how long. Needless to say it burned the negative cable that runs from the solenoid to the frame, replaced the cable and starter and now I have nothing, had a good PCB so I put that on it to eliminate that as a problem, batteries are new... what the heck could be my problem??
 
simp5782

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Coleslaw said:
I've got a 2007 M929a2 that the starter was staying engaged after releasing the start switch, needless to say the starter (not by me) was left running for who knows how long. Needless to say it burned the negative cable that runs from the solenoid to the frame, replaced the cable and starter and now I have nothing, had a good PCB so I put that on it to eliminate that as a problem, batteries are new... what the heck could be my problem??
Click to expand...
Coleslaw said:
I've got a 2007 M929a2 that the starter was staying engaged after releasing the start switch, needless to say the starter (not by me) was left running for who knows how long. Needless to say it burned the negative cable that runs from the solenoid to the frame, replaced the cable and starter and now I have nothing, had a good PCB so I put that on it to eliminate that as a problem, batteries are new... what the heck could be my problem??
Click to expand...
So with your test light you have no power at the starter solenoid when the starter switch is engaged? If no. Remove the starter switch. Use your test light to locate the power to the switch from the main power switch. You should have one wire that will be tagged 498. This will be the sending wire to the starter. Remove the connector. With the other wires attached. See if you have power coming from it when you flip to start. If No, replace the switch. If yes, you need to go to the PCB, leave the main harness plug hooked to it. Use the test light. When trying to start the truck see if you have power on terminal E. If No, you have a bad neutral safety or busted wire between it and the dash board. IF YES. See if you have power on terminal B of the PCB plug. If No. You have an internal problem in the PCB on the solenoid for intermittent duty. If Yes then you have a break in the wire from the PCB to the starter solenoid
 
74M35A2

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
There is no negative cable that runs from the solenoid to the frame. So, as of now, could be a mid-wiring issue?
 
Bhpdbrad

Bhpdbrad

Member
103
13
18
Location
Ventura County, CA
simp5782 said:
So with your test light you have no power at the starter solenoid when the starter switch is engaged? If no. Remove the starter switch. Use your test light to locate the power to the switch from the main power switch. You should have one wire that will be tagged 498. This will be the sending wire to the starter. Remove the connector. With the other wires attached. See if you have power coming from it when you flip to start. If No, replace the switch. If yes, you need to go to the PCB, leave the main harness plug hooked to it. Use the test light. When trying to start the truck see if you have power on terminal E. If No, you have a bad neutral safety or busted wire between it and the dash board. IF YES. See if you have power on terminal B of the PCB plug. If No. You have an internal problem in the PCB on the solenoid for intermittent duty. If Yes then you have a break in the wire from the PCB to the starter solenoid
Click to expand...
I'm 'watching' this thread closely - as I just had the same issue. Haven't dug into it yet. Was wondering parts (needed) to buy ahead of time.
 
post 5466

post 5466

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
46
9
8
Location
Taylorsville North Carolina
Can anyone help me with the wiring of a starter had to replace the engine in five turn for the VFW tags were pulled off but still have metal tags on the wires I need the numbers and where they go to on a 900 series 5 ton
 
post 5466

post 5466

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
46
9
8
Location
Taylorsville North Carolina
post 5466 said:
Thank you so much I have TBI and my short term memory is shot to hell grew up poor having to work on our own equipment I just can’t remember anymore but trying to get this fixed to pull the dust off that I rebuilt in the last eight months to take around for Veterans to see
Click to expand...
I have it just like that but my trigger wire has a 74 on it I can’t get it to do anything at the switch inside the cab is there a way to reset the box on the firewall the protection power box maybe I have the wire is wrong on my alternator you couldn’t possibly send a picture of those numbers could you
 
post 5466

post 5466

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
46
9
8
Location
Taylorsville North Carolina
Ok all wired correctly but had jump at the starter also had to tear the fuel shut off piston back so it would crank somethings not right perhaps it could be in the power control box on the firewall any advice would be greatly greatly appreciated
 
Bhpdbrad

Bhpdbrad

Member
103
13
18
Location
Ventura County, CA
post 5466 said:
Ok all wired correctly but had jump at the starter also had to tear the fuel shut off piston back so it would crank somethings not right perhaps it could be in the power control box on the firewall any advice would be greatly greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
I just experienced the same situation you are dealing with (Ignition/Start Switch got stuck in the "Start" position)... Here is my journey of "the fix":

So... when this happened, I initially didn't have a clue what was going on. The engine fired up and came roaring to life. My practice is to increase idle to build air and as I was doing this I could hear a loud clanking noise coming from the engine. Note: Due to many years of gun-fire exposure, I have tinnitus and a moderate loss of hearing - but what I did hear sounded odd. I also noticed my volt meter jumping around too.

By the time (literally 30 seconds) I figured out that the starter was still engaged - it was too late.

I turned the engine off and tried a re-start... No-go. Not even a 'click'.

Opening the hood, I could see a little smoke emitting from my fuel shut-off solenoid but that was the least of the problem(s).

When the starter got stuck in the 'Start' position it fried the PCB (located on the firewall).
That was the 1st item I had to replace (PCB). I had hoped that would be the fix - but it also burned up the starter, so that was the 2nd item to replace.

After that (replacing the PCB & Starter), it cranked up nice but wouldn't run (remember that smoke from the fuel shut-off solenoid?) Well, that was still an issue. I opened up the fuel lever manually and it ran great. I just have to use the 'emergency shut off' lever in the cab to shut down now until I replace the solenoid.

Hope this information was helpful. I know you can bypass the PCB with a jumper - but I'll let you find that link, as I've never done that.



Sincerely,

Brad
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,879members
165,309threads
2,326,155posts
1,403online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks