5_TON_TOMATOE
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Anyone tried a conversion to alternator from Woltech?
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Charging system upgrade for the Deuce
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fpchief
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I have one. I do like it. Easy and clean. Had it maybe 2 years now.
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Zero problems with this job
Do what somebody I know well did. Trace EVERY wire everywhere to the ground and CLEAN them all.
50 year old truck may have some corrosion sometimes.
Put Her back the way She was built and get another 50 years.
Do what somebody I know well did. Trace EVERY wire everywhere to the ground and CLEAN them all.
50 year old truck may have some corrosion sometimes.
Put Her back the way She was built and get another 50 years.
Krink545
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I ordered 1 last week. Hasn't showed up won't answer text phone or emails.
I would avoid.
BBB Bad reviews.
I would avoid.
BBB Bad reviews.
M35fan
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I followed a post by SEToyota that detailed how to fab your own bracket and install a Delco 21si. I ordered one and installed it. Easy swap and it is working great so far. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/modern-24-volt-alternator-install.177577/
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fpchief
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I will be doing that for my next one.
fpchief
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Yea they are slow on replies. Keep trying. And yes, their reviews suck. They eventually came through for me. I started a thread on them a while back.
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I ordered a 24v and 12v upgrade alternators. The 24v showed up, but the 12v never did and after repeated calls in which I was assured it was on the way, I finally filed a claim with my credit card company. I eventually bought an off the shelf 12v alt meant to be used by long haul trucks.
DavidWymore
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I installed a 21si knockoff and voltage varies with RPM today. I don’t think it did when I first installed it last weekend, seems like it was putting out about 28v from the get go.
Ideas? Thanks
Ideas? Thanks
DavidWymore
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I used to know a thing or two about alternators but it’s been a couple decades.
@74M35A2 probably knows...
74M35A2
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Check belt tension and battery health. If the battery recharge rate (amps) is more than the alternator is making (at idle), it will pull system voltage down. Batteries are only good for 5 years. Most people will run them until they don’t start the truck anymore, then see these types of issues.
Good field test is to measure battery voltage with a digital meter while cranking with the engine fuel disabled. Battery voltage needs to stay at 20.0V or higher for a full 5 seconds of cranking.
Good field test is to measure battery voltage with a digital meter while cranking with the engine fuel disabled. Battery voltage needs to stay at 20.0V or higher for a full 5 seconds of cranking.
DavidWymore
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The batteries that were in the truck were junk. Small and old, just placekeepers, was slaving the truck to start. It’s my project M50 I saved from the scrapper, which is also turning out to be a test mule for things like this alt and the aluminum Chevy radiator.
I tested and put some good used group 31s in today. 19.XXv cranking.
Alternator charged a little at first, but got worse after I revved it. Went and looked at it, radiator isn’t in yet.
Noticed shavings in the pulley center. Shaft doesn’t have a key like OEM, pulley was slipping. Tightened it up and...no charge at all.
Tried hitting #1 for excite and #2 for sense with the excite wire from the truck, no joy.
Screwdriver in front of the shaft/nut shows very weak magnetism.
I tested and put some good used group 31s in today. 19.XXv cranking.
Alternator charged a little at first, but got worse after I revved it. Went and looked at it, radiator isn’t in yet.
Noticed shavings in the pulley center. Shaft doesn’t have a key like OEM, pulley was slipping. Tightened it up and...no charge at all.
Tried hitting #1 for excite and #2 for sense with the excite wire from the truck, no joy.
Screwdriver in front of the shaft/nut shows very weak magnetism.
74M35A2
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Good find on the slipping. Replace it. They are only $80 new with 1 year warranty. Rare to fail. Replace pulley also. Make sure to zip new pulley on with impact.
DavidWymore
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Thanks. That’s where I was heading.
Wondering if there might be an issue with the truck that would kill one in short order like that.
It had a non functional Leece-Neville on it when I got it.
I’m inclined to hook alternators up “proper” with excite and sense wires...seems like it isn’t usually necessary with these though?
74M35A2
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Correct. Once you go 21Si clone, they are “single wire” alternators. Really only need the B+ cable to them, do the ground for insurance. Do not connect to the 2 small remaining terminals. Gravy, and should work no problem.
Your LN died because, that’s what those do.
Your LN died because, that’s what those do.
DavidWymore
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I took my 21 SI to the local alternator shop, and he said it was smoked. I want to get another, but are there any inexpensive brands that are better or worse than others in anyone’s experience?. ThanksCorrect. Once you go 21Si clone, they are “single wire” alternators. Really only need the B+ cable to them, do the ground for insurance. Do not connect to the 2 small remaining terminals. Gravy, and should work no problem.
Your LN died because, that’s what those do.
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74M35A2
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They are all Chinese by the same company. You can get a genuine Delco, but they will be $300 and up. My genuine Delco failed in less than a year of hobby use. Best thing you can do is keep your batteries less than 5 years old, this greatly reduces the continuous load (heat) on the alternator.